R &R'ing frame mounts?? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 03, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Red face

I have read alot of the posts on this b/c I knew sometime it would be my turn!

WELL, I crawled inside my engine bay about an hour ago and had at it..

My bolts broke loose real easy b/c of years and years of oilly crud as I expected them to..

BUT now the nuts turn inside the S/F as others have said they probably would!!

WOULD somebody PLEASE walk me through how they did theirs to give me some moral support here b/c I can't see how I can even get a box-in wrench up in there b/c of what appears to be the lower A-arm bulkhead metal.. Plus my sway-bar is in the way but I can drop it.. (I haven't figured out if it is even possible to see the nuts yet, also.....)))))))

There is a 1.75" or so round hole in the front S/F vertical on each side where the sway-bar passes by and small 1-1/4" x 5/8", (maybe 3/4"), notches in the lower bottom so am I missing something??

Is it easiest to just take my trusty 4.5" angle grinder and cut a window on the back side of the vertical on the S/F??? Or is there a combination of 1/4" or 3/8" short swivel-socket/short extension and ratchet that will do it and I just haven't gotten pissed-off enough to find it???

I have a brand new set of 3/8" swivel sockets that I think I have never used after ten years or so, so will the 9/16" do the trick??

If this will work, the 9/16" will pay for the set!!!!

Any help will be greatly appreciated..

Thx in advance..

pdq67 in a bind...



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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 03, 12:23 PM
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Paul,

That 1.75" hole will allow you to get a socket, extension, or long wrench to hold the nut for the lower bolts (towards the center of the car). The two top bolts/nuts are accessed through an oval slot in the subframe just above the lower control arm mounting point. A combination of ratchet, extension, and swivel/socket will get them but it's tight. Probably easier if the front tires were off the ground to allow the lower control arms to hang down.

Jody


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 03, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy

Thx Jody,

I will try it again this evening but am really doubtful about the round hole when I stuck my average length Craftsman 9/16" open end wrench in it and didn't seem to even come close to the lower bolt's nut??

I have a long 9/16" box-end I think, would it be better or will the angle not allow it to fit the nut??

Back to the slot, are you saying that it would be easier to just drop both lower A-arms to access the two top bolts on each side???

The 500 pound coils are a bear to compress but if I have to, I guess I will!!!

pdq67



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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 03, 01:26 PM
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Paul,

It can be done without dropping the lower arms. I meant getting the front tires off the ground so the a-arms are hanging down which will give you a little more room.

On the round hole a longer handled ratchet and socket could also be used. Chevy definitely didn't make it easy to remove these things!

Jody


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 03, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Smile

Jody,

OK..

I will let you and everybody know how it turns out and my frustration level!!

pdq67



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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 03, 03:00 PM
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Paul, just persevere. I changed my mounts and didn't drop the arms down. I suggest either a socket inside the a - arm or put some goop in the box wrench as you don't want the nut to drop down inside. As I recall, I used a long(er) handled ratchet with a socket and swivel extension. It was a pain but it can be done easier than it initially looks.

[ 10-12-2003, 03:43 AM: Message edited by: RickD ]

Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv therapy program, Autogear M22, 8-pt cage, with a new 410! SOLD
New therapy program - 68 Coupe. Will be survivor exterior, modern underpinnings! SOLD
67 Belair with perfect floors, pinchwelds and firewall. Hmmm!
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 03, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Angry

Thx Rick,

I messed up and took the wife out to a good local Mexican Rest. and now I am too lazy to crawl under my car tonight. And lo and behold on TV, MO is hanging it on NE, 43 to 24!!!

My wife said she thought it was about 30 years since the last time we kicked the Corn Huskers tail!!!

pdq67



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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 03, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Angry

First I want to thank Jody and Rick for giving me moral support in doing the SB to BB frame R&R deal today..

I had never seen the two areas they told me about and a whole bunch of the other guy's had talked about that allowed us to change the frame mounts out so I definately learned a thing two today..

The two big round holes are NOT used as neither is the two little slots way underneath. And the sway-bar IS NOT TOUCHED!!

It is the top hole right behind each spring and the bottom hole right next to each rear lower A-arm!!!

I used a 1/4" ratchet, (the smallest I had!!), a 1/4" x 3" extension along with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter and then a short, 6-point, 9/16", 3/8 inch socket and a 9/16 combination wrench on top!!

My car is up in the air about 15" or so and very steady so with the tires off, it had the A-arm droop that is needed to help get at the spots!!

I have to say I was dreading this for years!!! But it is just about as hard as R&R'ing the rear leaf spring front mounts using a small angle grinder!!!

NO big deal at all, just had to get with it......

Worked like a charm and took a couple of hours, THAT'S ALL!!

Thx again you two and everybody that has posted about this in the past too!!!

Yours truly,

pdq67

PS., I also removed my manual steering gearbox and installed my power steering gearbox and pitman so that is done too!! As is my new rag joint!!

I also used some Dow Oven Cleaner to take the orange Krylon paint off the two piece hub David gave me, (the oven cleaner WORKED like a charm as a paint remover!!), and installed 1/2" x 3" studs in both hubs and new races, seals and bearings so I am ready to change out my drum hub's so my Bullitt's will have more room up by the upper balljoint lips..

I am torn between removing my new coils and going ahead and cutting a coil off each of them before I install my BB but gut feeling tells me to wait till after it is in and my car is on the ground.

The coils are 488 pound ones that are almost physically exactly like the stock ones so I do figure that they won't drop all that much but I really don't know and sure don't want to do buy them twice!!!

Anybody have any suggestions on my front coils???

I figure they will jump up to above 500 pounds after cutting???



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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 03, 02:45 PM
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Glad you got it figured out Paul. You and I were talking about the same hole for the top two bolts on each side; I just didn't explain myself very well! I was wrong on the front round holes as those are for the rearmost lower a-arms bolts/nuts. There is a slot under the subframe to line up perfectly with the lower bolts on each side as you said. I won't give advice off of memory again!!!!!!!!

Jody


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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 03, 03:14 PM
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Congrats, Paul. Is the motor in your car?

I'm following you on the power steering conversion. Decided all that upper body conditioning has to go.

Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv therapy program, Autogear M22, 8-pt cage, with a new 410! SOLD
New therapy program - 68 Coupe. Will be survivor exterior, modern underpinnings! SOLD
67 Belair with perfect floors, pinchwelds and firewall. Hmmm!
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 03, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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I just got back from Lowe's where I bought a 1.25" dia. dark gray glue-on PVC pipe cap that I am going to modify to use as a brake push-rod hold device on the end of my M/C. I gotta find my brake pedal push-rod stud and then get a new bolt to cut up and make fit tomorrow since I'm off b/c of Columbus Day.

Plus, I think I will bite the bullet and pull my battery tray and get a Marine battery box and mount the battery in my trunk to free up room for my new wide aluminum radiator and to drop some front end weight.

I'm hoping ta stab my motor in it maybe next week???

Did anybody have any sugestions about my coil springs???

pdq67



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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 03, 06:44 PM
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I'd definitely wait until after the motor is in before cutting the coils. I'd hate to see you post later "I cut 'em off and they're still too short!"


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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 03, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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Angry

He, He!! Gotcha, I think I will wait, too.....

Just like the old cross-eyed carpenter that I knew as a kid.

Sober he could plumb a door jamb using his good eye and drunk couldn't b/c he always wanted to use his bad eye!! And I kid you not!!!

Old Al and ditch-digger Eddy were a pair, great when sober but you really had to watch them if they had been into the "barley-pop"..

And I was just a pup myself...

pdq67



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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 03, 01:07 AM
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I once knew a blind carpenter....he picked up his hammer and saw. [img]smile.gif[/img]

John
'67 SS/RS (RR)
'68 RS conv. (J2)
'68 Z/28 (VV)
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'73 Corvette Drag Car 12.64 @ 106

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 03, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kyvox:
I once knew a blind carpenter....he picked up his hammer and saw. [img]smile.gif[/img]
"I see" said the blind man to the deaf woman as he looked through the knot hole in the picket fence.


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