engine doesnt want to crank when hot - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 14th, 02, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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i just put an edelbrock on my 350 and when it gets to running temp it doesnt want to crank.it didnt do this with the holley i took off of it but it didnt perform as good with the holley. does anyone know what could cause it to not want to crank.and also when adjusting rockers with engine running do i need to tighten them down more than a 1/4 of a turn after they quit pecking. any help would be appreciated
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 14th, 02, 07:51 PM
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did you re-check the timing, to make sure it isn't more advanced than it was before the swap?

------------------
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 06:24 AM
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if it is not wanting to crank when hot, sounds like the choke is'nt working properly
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 08:04 AM
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Are you saying it doesn't want to start? or turn over? Do you have a spacer under your carb? What manifold are you using? If you are running a Stealth with that carb I would bet you are boiling the fuel in the carb (vapor lock?). I have seen this several times with that combo.

Oh and as far as the valve adjustments, 1/4 -1/2 turn past zero lash (after the pecking/clicking/tapping stops) works fine.

Royce

[This message has been edited by camaroman7d (edited 11-15-2002).]
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 08:07 AM
 
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Could it be heat soak? Is the solenoid (starter) getting hot? Does the car start if it sits for a while? Does your car have headers? Did you adjust the float bowls on the carb, hook up a vacuum gauge, adjust the fuel mixture? Did you re-route the fuel lines in any way when you installed the new carb? If so, are they getting hot? Have you checked the fuel filter?

Either way, when you say that "when it gets hot it doesn't want to crank," it sounds like heat soak. If it turns over when hot but it just doesn't want to start, then look elsewhere (ie. the carb/fuel delivery). Can you smell gas (flooding) since I would have to assume that you pump the pedal several times to get her going. What's the cfm of the carb? Is the new carb bigger than the Holley before it? What kind of 350 is it? Mild build, bone stock, crate motor? I think with a little more info. that one of the experts in her may be able to help you

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1969, X-44, Export Model, Hugger Orange, Std. Int., BC Rear(soon to be a BT 12 bolt), PDB, GMPP 350HO, M22 Supercase, SSM Lift Bars, AirGap, Holley 750, FlowMaster American Thunder Exhaust, FlowTech Headers
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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its a built lt1 350 with edelbrock performer intake with a 600 cfm edelbrock carb.the holley i took off was a 650.it turns over fine it just doesnt want to start up.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 04:35 PM
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Shane next time it does that, touch your carb and see how hot it is. If is is real hot, I would suggest you install a phenolic spacer under the carb, this will insulate the carb from the heat. They are about $20 - 30 and should also help performance a little. Like I said I have seen this problem with those carbs (usually with a stealth manifold).

Royce

[This message has been edited by camaroman7d (edited 11-15-2002).]
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 05:17 PM
 
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Good point Royce. Never thought of that one but, I have seen it happen.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 06:39 PM
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yes, royce has a good point there. it it is getting pretty hot, that spacer will help keep it cool to avoid fuel evap.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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what is the spacer made out of and how thick is it.i have a spacer but it is aluminum to adapt q-jet to holley or edelbrock intakes or the other way around. and if it is to thick my hood will hit the breather.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 02, 03:32 AM
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Maybe you should have blocked the heat riser passage? Sounds like you might be cooking the carb. Just a thought.

-Mark.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 02, 08:16 AM
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I don't know what the spacer is made of. If you look at it from the side it looks like plywood (it is not wood though). It's almost like several thin layers of fiberglass made into one. It is a man made fiber of some sort (maybe someone knows the actual material?). You can get them as thin as 1/2". I have not seen them made in the adapter style. If you have a half in to spare you can stack it on top of your spacer.

Stingr69, Thant is a good point, but I have seen it happen even with the heat riser blocked.

Royce

[This message has been edited by camaroman7d (edited 11-16-2002).]
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 02, 11:23 PM
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camaroman7d, thats phenolic material your refering too. looks kinda like fiberglass layers, probably a brownish color.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 17th, 02, 06:21 AM
 
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I went with the 1/2" Summit phenolic (wood/fiber/layered) looking spacer and it leaked. I must have rec'd it that way from Summit considering that it did not last for more than 100 miles. I then went with the 1/4" Mr Gasket Heat Dissipator (Jegs #720-86 @ $13.99) and have had no probs since. It is the one that has a gasket, aluminum, gasket, etc. BTW, if you don't put something between the carb and intake you are running the risk of warping the base plate of the carb. Especially if it gets real hot.

------------------
1969, X-44, Export Model, Hugger Orange, Std. Int., BC Rear(soon to be a BT 12 bolt), PDB, GMPP 350HO, M22 Supercase, SSM Lift Bars, AirGap, Holley 750, FlowMaster American Thunder Exhaust, FlowTech Headers
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 04:39 PM
 
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i gotta ask what intake you are using? to have to run a Q-jet to square flange adapter, sounds like you got a Q-jet intake on it... i suggest going with a RPM airgap. it should help dissapate the heat a little and also give you the square bore flange you need to bolt on the carb, and get rid of that adapter.

i agree on the possibility of cooking hte carb. especialy if you can crank, just no start.

-JS
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