Carb Problems? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 04, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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Just installed a new Edelbrock 1406 carb on my '68. Runs good when engine is cold - but after it gets good and warm - just won't idle. Any thoughts on where to start ? Thanks.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 04, 03:29 AM
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Eric
 
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Idle mixture is too rich. Try setting your idle mixture screws for max vacuum with the engine warm.

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68 Camaro, E85 powered 427" small block. 9.96 @ 133 MPH, 1.319 sixty foot on motor. 5.92 eighth @ 116 with a 1.42 sixty breaking beams with back tire on the bottle
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 04, 07:00 AM
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You DID wire up the electric choke, right?





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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 04, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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Yeah - got the electric choke hooked up ok - runs pretty good when I give it a lot of throttle. Runs like a champ when starting cold. But after is is really good and warm - when first giving it gas it chokes and coughs and spits...and won't idle at all. I was hoping to not have to mess too much with the adjustment screws - but I'll see what I can do. Never had much luck with carb adjustments. Thanks
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 04, 04:44 PM
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are you sure that timing is correct?do you have the vac line hooked up to the ridht port on the carb?
Richard

Rich /matching #s garnet red 69 Z/28 RS
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 04, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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Hooked up vacuum line to the non-egr side - (drivers side port). I plugged the unused port (although I could find nothing that told me to do so in insructions). Timing is dead on TDC. All new vacuum lines and gaskets. New points, cap rotor, plugs (found one cracked one). What am I missing ?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 04, 04:21 AM
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Steven
 
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certainly plug any unconnected port. Here are some rambling thoughts ... Is this automatic or manual? If auto, does it die in neutral/park, or when you put it in gear? Also, make sure modulator connected at tranny. How fast do you have to set idle to keep engine running ? Once warm, Can you gradually raise rpms until engine runs smoothly? Are you using vacuum advance on distributor? If so, make sure it is connected to ported, not full time vac source ... Hopefully, you didn't get trash in carb affecting idle circuit and/or squirter. Edelbrock has 800 number ... 1-800-416-8628 .. Don't be afraid to turn adjustment screws ... You need either vac gauge or tach to use while you make adjustments ... set idle as near deasired speed as you can ... adjust one screw at at atime to get best vac or rpm , then reset idle to desire speed, then adjust the 2nd screw ... reset idle final time ... There is also a separate kit you can buy to further tune the carb ... this kit contains things like metering rods and springs ... good luck ...
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 04, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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sdtsdt, The car is now a 4 speed (converted from an automatic). I put a new in-line canister type fuel filter in it when I installed the carb. I checked the vacuum advance and it seems to be working. I guess I'll start cranking on the adjustment screws and see what happens.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 04, 12:58 PM
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you said timing is dead on TDC. do you mean its not advanced at all? should be around 10 degress advanced, depends on your combo though. and that's with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. the initial timing will be more with the vacuum advance connected(if you use manifold vacuum). i know there's a lot of debate on the ported vs. manifold vacuum, but i agree with manifold vacuum all the way. i have the same carb and i think you said you had hooked the vac advance up to the driver's side port. i believe that's the manifold vacuum port, which is what i use. i noticed a difference in performance when i switched from ported to manifold.

and there's a pretty slim chance you got trash in the new carb, but it's possible. i've cleaned crud from the needle and seat twice, makes the engine idle horribly. i'd mess with the idle mixture screws first though, see how it affects it. also, the tuning kit is a great idea, i bought one. but the metering rods, etc shouldn't affect your idle, that's controlled by the idle system. good luck [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 04, 02:25 PM
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chevys like timing.do what Zack said and try 10 degrees.and also you will want to hook your vacuum line to the ported side of the carb.
Richard

Rich /matching #s garnet red 69 Z/28 RS
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 04, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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Well I think I am making some progress...maybe. I checked the timing - reset to about 16 degress advanced (not sure why it's so far advanced but that is where it is running the best - had the vacuum pulled and plugged). Reset the idle speed screw to about 800 rpm. Dinked with the idle mixture screws (one was way off). Reset the idle speed screw (when I messed with the mixture screws the idle speed gained about 400 rpm). Definitley running a lot better. I still have an intermitant stumble in the idle - I can watch the rpm dip by 80 -100 rpms when it does it. Have not road tested it yet - but at least it is not stalling sitting still...Thanks for all the help
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 04, 06:51 PM
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in regard to the stumble, I would check for vacuum leak, including carb to intake gasket as well as making sure intake manifold is properly torqued down, and doesn't leak ... and I would pull the plugs to make sure none are fouled ... also, did you check dwell on points ... usually in 28 - 32 degree range
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 04, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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Checked dwell - dead on 30 and installed new plugs. Still puzzeled why motor wants to be advanced so much...? Any ideas on that - does it make any difference as long as it wants to run good there ?
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