balancer install - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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hi all!
i just got a new harmonic balancer from professional products,it seems to be a nice piece and a few here have reccomended them.mine is the 6 3/4"lightweight(non sfi)model.
problem is that when i cranked it down i am approximately 1/4"from having the crank pulley lining up with the others(not seating all the way)
this is on an 80-84 4bolt block,the balancer i had on it from a '78 monte carlo lined up perfectly.maybe a woodruff key slipped?there are two slots on the crank and i have a key in each one.i installed the balancer with a proform installer and don't have access to a torque wrench at this time i tightenedtil the engine turned over and a bit more but i'm still 1/4"out.could this be a pulley issue?
thanks as always in advance for your thoughts/opinions on this issue!
Eric

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 02:50 AM
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It's quite possible the dampner is slightly thicker. When I went with an ATI, I had that same problem.

Rick Dorion
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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hey rick'how did you get around this?i have a serpentine style alternator belt.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 04:06 AM
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It could be possible the key moved, but, I thought woodruff keys were used. I can see a square key doing this. A couple of fixes, 1. Is the crank timing chain sprocket thicker than the one before? 2. You could have the small end re-machined shorter in length, or get a smaller thickness sprocket/set.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 04:10 AM
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In my case, I shimmed the water pump pulley and alternator out using washers. Pretty easy. I have v-belts but I would think it would be the same process.

Rick Dorion
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 02:25 PM
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Eric,
The damper should not be any thicker if it was manufactured properly. Same with the timing chain sprocket on the crank. Are you absolutely sure it is on all the way ? Some of them get VERY tight for the last 1/2" or so. I always use antiseize on the damper and snout of the crank. The wrench I have for my installer is about 2 ft long, and it still takes a lot of "grunt" to get them on sometimes.
The only way to tell for sure is to pull it back off and do some measuring before reinstalling it.
Hope this helps,

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 02:35 PM
 
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And you might smack her good using a three pound Ford Tool and a hard block of wood when she's down close!!! Then keep torquing on your breaker bar... pdq67



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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 05:45 PM
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If i remember correctly you should have a about 3/4 of an inch of depth from the crank snout to the balancer. could be a 1/2 inch just been to long for me to remember. Can anyone help on this?

Joe

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 29th, 03, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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well guys thanks for all the opinions! in the end billk's "get a bigger wrench" theory saved the day!
last night when i was doing the swap the engine was still a bit warm and i have a feeling this had a bit to do with the incredible force that i was having to exert to install this piece!i was seriously worried about stripping the crank snout threads!today once things were cold it was a bit better going together and i finally felt it seat.
all lined up well and now i have a hundred other questions that i will be posting in the performance section.the old balancer appeared to be about 20*too advanced.or is this one wrong?etc.......
again you guys are the best and since i dont have ANY mechanically minded friends i dont know what i'd do without y'all! [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]
thanks so much
Eric
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 03, 02:06 AM
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Good to read the h/b is on all the way. The problem with the off 20* on timing marks is due to mismatch of h/b and timing cover years. If one buys a h/b for a particular year, then one should buy the timing cover/pointer for the same year. I believe the changeover was in '72(?).

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 03, 06:11 PM
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Some have it so you shoot the timing from the left side and others from the top looking behind the water pump. If you have a long water pump and the correct timing cover this works on any small block. You will never be able to see the timing mark if you have a short water pump. You can always find TDC and install a new marker and remark the balancer with timing tape or make a new groove and paint it white or ??. Just all thoughts here as the old balancer could be of some use with the right parts or re-engineering to suit your need.

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Then, you have enough horsepower."
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