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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 03, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Guy's, I need your help on this flywheel I have. It is a 15 lb 10 1/2" flywheel. The markings on the back are GM 1 N F and J 3 8. Internal balanced. I measured the thickness with a caliper ( micrometor was to small ) The thickness varies from 1.48 to 1.32 or about .o16 differance. It has been resurfaced but it has a small spot about the size of a pencil eraser that did not mechine out of it. If you run your finger nail over it you can't hardly tell its there. I just bought a new Centerforce 2 clutch for the car and I sure don't want to screw it up. I'm going to a M 20 from a p/g so I have now knowlege of flywheels. It going on a 327 with about 350 hp and will see very little track time,if any. Is it worth using or should I be thinking about a new flywheel?

Dan.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 03, 02:41 PM
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Bill
 
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Dan,
YOu really cannot measure the thickness of most flywheels the way you are trying to. The backside is a cast surface and varies too much. If the flywheel was reground properly, on a flywheel grinder, I would not worry too much about one small spot. I am saying this without having it in front of me to look at, so you may want to take it down to your machine shop and have them take a llok.
Hope this helps,

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 03, 02:55 PM
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TS69
There is probably more controversey about flywheels then there is about religion, so I'm gonna go out on a limb and give you MY OPINION (and Centerforces) if I may. Get a new flywheel and get a heavy one. I went through this with my ZZ430 69 Z/RS and tried the lightweight GM flywheel 16 lb. It was great, no problem at all with the M20 and 3.73's. So why did I change it? Because I got into a discussion with some friends about it and they assured me I made a mistake. I called Centerforce and asked the guys who test this stuff and they recommended not only going to the heavy 30 pounder, but they had one that was about 35 Pounds and it was better they say. Well, I tried the GM 30 pounder and not only was it FAR BETTER out of the hole, It didn't hurt throttle response at all. Sure a light weight flywheels will free rev quicker, but once engaged the torque output is the same, and you can take advantage of the rotating mass too. Besides, if you put the right flywheel in now you won't be pulling everything out again later to fix problems. Track time or not, have you seen what a flywheel can do to a car if it comes apart? Spend a few extra bucks and sleep well! [img]graemlins/boring.gif[/img]
Just thinkin out loud!
Jim
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 03, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Bill, I kind of thought that might be the case with the thickness. I realize it is hard to give an opinion without seeing it.

Jim, I appericate your thoughts and that is another reason I asked my questions. I have always been the guy to spend a little extra to do it right the first time, but this is adding up. I guess in the big scope of things another $240.00 isn't the end of the world for safety and peace of mind. A failure would surely cost alot more than that.

I do not have any money is the flywheel I have, it was given to me by a friend who no longer has cars, but I don't know where it been or if its been beat. If it sounds like I'm trying to talk myself into it, I am.

I would like to have others chime in on this one as well.

Dan.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 03, 06:27 PM
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Speaking of flywheels, is there a way to know if I have the 14" or 12 3/4" flywheel? I need to get the starter brace ordered and there are 2 different ones depending on the flywheel. Is there a way to know without removing the flywheel cover and counting teeth or trying to measure?
I have an LM1 350/255 block is 3932388 cast
built in Oct of 68
thanks for any hints to follow
[img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 03, 04:03 AM
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Click- Look at the bolts on the starter. If they are straight across from each other (one long bolt, one short), you have the smaller diameter flywheel. If they are staggered and both the same length, it will be the larger wheel.

BTW, I thought that all of the starter braces for a small block were the same. Big block braces are different. I could be wrong though.

John
'67 SS/RS (RR)
'68 RS conv. (J2)
'68 Z/28 (VV)
'68 Drag Car(ZZ) 11.30 @ 118
'73 Corvette Drag Car 12.64 @ 106

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 03, 04:35 AM
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catalog shows one for BB and 2 for SB depending on flywheel size. Thanks for the tip John, will crawl under and check it out.
[img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 03, 08:39 AM
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Click,
You probably have Rick's catalog. They have it right. The "403"(Z/28, 307, 327) bellhousing uses the small flywheel starter brace. If you run the "621" bellhousing(SS350 and SS396), you need the brace for the bigger flywheel.

The starter bolts on to the block at the edge of the flywheel. If the flywheel gets bigger, the starter needs to move away from the engine in order to match up to the bigger diameter flywheel. As the starter moves away from the engine due to the bigger flywheel, the brace needs to move away as well. Thats the long but simple explanation to a frequent misconception.

(Did that sound like Cliff Claven from Cheers or what?!?!?) [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]

-Mark.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 03, 12:28 PM
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A 14" inch flywheel (11" clutch)has 168 teeth on the ring gear and a 12-3/4" flywheel (10 1/2" clutch) has 153.
Jim
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 03, 01:33 PM
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No clutch on my TH 350 automatic but still going to crawl under there tonight. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

I loved Cheers, Coach was my fav. he always got the hot chicks [img]graemlins/hurray.gif[/img]

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 03, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Any more thoughts on my flywheel question?
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