Tips on Engine removal - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Ok, this is my first crack at this so I'm looking for some tips. I know most people have a preference on whether or not to remove the engine/tranny together. I'm attempting to pull the motor by itself but it seems like its going to be very difficult to get at the bellhousing bolts to unhook the tranny. Are there any special tools and/or tricks to get this done? What do I need to do to support the tranny once the bolts are out? Do I pull the converter with it still attached to the flywheel. The Chilton's manual says to pull them as a unit. It seems like that would be harder ro accomplish b/c of the angle.
Thanks,
Greg

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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 06:04 AM
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Pulling both at the same time is not as hard as it sounds. Just be sure everything is disconnected from the engine and tranny, and all fluids (except trans) are drained. Get a plastic plug or yoke to shove in the rear of the trans so the fluid won't spill out. Have a hoist, floorjack, and several friends ready to help. If you leave the tranny in the car, remove the bellhousing bolts, converter bolts, linkage, and place teh floorjack under the trans to support it when they uncouple. Leave the converter in the trans. When the engine is out use strong wire or something to hold the trans up so it doesn't hit the floor and bust up stuff. .

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 06:08 AM
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I don't think I've ever pulled them out together. I've used wrenches, sockets, extensions, and knuckles to get at the ones up top. (I've used many extension/knuckle combos that have been 2+ feet long) Once everything is loose, just block up the transmission with some wood blocks.

Check the hard to get at bolts from every possible entry point. Look from both sides of the engine compartment, and check under the car to see where it's going to be the easiest to access the bolt from.

And as Codi said, be carefull when pulling the engine, as to not drop the convertor on the floor.
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 06:50 AM
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I just pulled my eng. out. The best way to get to the top bolts is taking the intake out and then you can get to the top 4 bolts with no problems.You will have to take the intake off any way ones you take the eng off.Now having saying that taking the eng,and tranny together out is easier but you need two men and a boy guiding things up.Good luck no matter wich way you do it just take your time after all is your baby you are working on!!! [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img] Nick.

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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Codi:
Pulling both at the same time is not as hard as it sounds. Just be sure everything is disconnected from the engine and tranny, and all fluids (except trans) are drained. Get a plastic plug or yoke to shove in the rear of the trans so the fluid won't spill out. Have a hoist, floorjack, and several friends ready to help. If you leave the tranny in the car, remove the bellhousing bolts, converter bolts, linkage, and place teh floorjack under the trans to support it when they uncouple. Leave the converter in the trans. When the engine is out use strong wire or something to hold the trans up so it doesn't hit the floor and bust up stuff. .
Codi, just curious, why would you not drain the trans fluid? I would think that by doing that would lighten the load some. Or is a technical reason for not doing so?

1969 Camaro - 468ci/700r4/3.73 - 11sec and drove her home.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 07:45 AM
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I've always pulled the engine and trans together. I found it easier.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 08:03 AM
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Make sure you remove the hood. It makes it
a lot easier.

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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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I've got the hood off, radiator & shroud out, fan off, old exhaust cut off. I'll try removing the intake to see if I get a little more clearance. thanks for the tip.

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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 08:52 AM
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Here is a tip: No matter how you pull it out, CONSTANTLY THINK SAFETY!!!!
You are lifting and moving several hundreds of pounds of hand and foot(and head) crushing metal.
I hate to see anyone get hurt enjoying this hobby.

68 Camaro, 555 big block, Doug Nash 5-speed, 3.54 gear.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 09:17 AM
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Greg,

One other suggestion that may help getting those bellhousing bolts.
On mine I unbolted the trans fron the mount and jacked up the trans until it touched the floor board. I then had enough room to get at the top bell-housing bolts.

Good Luck -- Be safe

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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 03, 01:54 PM
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I've always pulled the trans along with the engine. It gives you the ability to roll the car around if you need to instead of having to leave it in the same place becuase there is a jack under it holding up the trans. Also it's much easier to mate the engine to the trans when it's on the shop floor.


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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 03, 07:18 AM
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Mike......pulling the pan on the trans will only drain whats in the pan, only a couple of pints. The rest is in the converter. For getting to the bellhousing bolts, you can usually reach the top bolts with a humongo long extension and swivel. I duct tape the joint in my swivel so it doen't move around much. What you can do is support the engine and remove the trans first, if you are going to remove it anyway. There is no problem with removing both at the same time, just have help in guiding the mass out of the compartment, tilting, grunting, etc. It takes quite a bit of tilt to get engine and trans over the rad support, but it can be done easily. If you are doing a resto and going to pull the front end anyway, do that first then pull the engine and trans. Just some options.

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 03, 10:39 AM
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I am assuming you guys are also removing the radiator? I will be pulling my motor and trans in a couple of months...
What else should be removed before the engine?
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 03, 11:39 AM
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I like to make the "package" as light as possible, so I remove all of the accessories from the engine, including the water pump. I like to use the block drains to get all of the coolant out...it saves a big mess later, plus we have pets....I disconnect the cooler lines at the radiator and leave them hooked up at the trans.

I'd like to hear people's opinion on the use of the engine lift device that bolts to carb mount flange on the intake manifold. These things just scare the the bejesus out of me, ESPECIALLY if you're pulling/installing the engine and trans together. I know that people use them all the time, but it just doesn't look safe, at least on an aluminum intake. My intake manifold has the threads for the carb studs cut directly into the aluminum. I envision a 1000+ lb. engine/trans combo pulling the threads out....I would feel a little better about things if those threads were heli-coil inserts...but not much. I was so concerned when I was getting ready to install my motor that I called Edelbrock and asked them for their opinion. (They actually manufacture the GMPP intake on my fastburn) Granted, I just talked to one guy there, but he advised against using the carb studs. What works well for me is to use a grade 8 bolt in an exhaust port bolt hole...if you figure your balance point correctly you can adjust the angle of attack for the engine/trans combo pretty easily while your helper advances the crane. And by all means use a chain that's up to the task! Sorry to be so long winded.

BPOS out.


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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 03, 01:49 PM
 
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I never had a problem with any of the hoghead bolts! I just got on top of my car and reached down and undid the top three and then crawled under her and undid the, (I think), four lower ones and they came right out.. Two per side...

I used a my neighbor's cherry-picker and came at my car from the drivers side, a 90 degree thing!! Worked great... I went this way b/c there were two jackstands under my S/F to hold the front up and they were in the way of the C/Pker's "legs" or "front casters", that's all... pdq67



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