Locker or not / C clip eliminators - Team Camaro Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 8th, 02, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Eagle Grove, IA, USA
Posts: 29
I am looking into rebuilding my rearend. I need to be more informed about the pros or cons between a standard posi type carrier,(Stock, Eaton)or a standard type carrier with a locker installed. I was also curious as far as the effect of the C clip eliminator on the track of the rear. Does it make the track wider?
Thanks, Bakes
62bakes is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 8th, 02, 08:25 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 195
An Eaton is tuneable and rebuildable which lockers are really not.

If this is a daily driver I would go towards the Eaton. They are very tunable. But if this were a drag car I just might consider a locker. They take some time to get used to driving; they handle way different from each other.

I have a locker in a daily driver and dont get me wrong, its a LOT of fun to drive, but in inclimate weather you spend more time sideways than anything else. In dry weather you are definatly going to hook up in a strait line. Not to mention you are gonna have to get used to the locker 'resetting' and all the bangs and clunks associated with a locker. But the difference between the two I prefer to drive my '67 with the Eaton.

As for the c-clip elimnator's, no they dont change track width. I dont really recommend them either. They tend to leak and can be a pain to maintain. I would use the weld on housing end route though.
chacane67 is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 9th, 02, 08:21 AM
Senior Tech
Freddie
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Central City, Ky.
Posts: 5,882
The weld on housing ends are the best, but can cost quite a bit to install. There is the cost of having them welded on and then you have to order special axles to fit the Ford axle bearings. This does make the best set up. The housing ends are about $65 and the cost of welding them on could be around $100. The axles are the most expensive at around $400. Your stock brakes still bolt on after the hole in the backing plate is enlarged.

------------------
'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead
big gear head is offline  
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 9th, 02, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Eagle Grove, IA, USA
Posts: 29
Thanks a lot guys! Your responses were right on. Exactly what I wanted to know. Is this the greatest web site ever, or what?
Thanks, Bakes
62bakes is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 9th, 02, 03:31 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 21
I have a question of what you mean when you describe lockers and how they act on the street. Would the new Powertrax no-slip traction system behave much the same? It claims to be very streetable. I'm considering giving it a try , but would like to hear from someone who has. Can be installed by someone such as myself without special tools. Put my new 406 in this summer and am having some traction problems...thanks
68Hugger is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 9th, 02, 04:04 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 195
The 'No-Slip' would act much the same, but it would be much tamer than its previous design. Inside the No-slip, it has a spring loaded device (bias springs) which forceably keep the drivergear (which works off of the pinion shaft blocks) dis-engaged form the coupler (side gear), until the vechicle accelerates/de-celerates. (BTW a no-spin and a lockrite are basically the same.)

What differential do you currently have? There may be another approach to solving your problem. I wont steer you away from a no-spin, I have a lockrite in one of my vechicles and it works great, but there may be a better answer....
chacane67 is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 9th, 02, 05:29 PM
Senior Tech
Freddie
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Central City, Ky.
Posts: 5,882
I haven't installed the No Slip in anything yet, but I have installed several Lock Right kits, including the one in my truck. The Lock Right does a lot of poping, but works well. I have heard nothing but bad news on the No Slip. I have had several people say that it worked fine for a while, then just quit working.

------------------
'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead
big gear head is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 10th, 02, 07:28 PM
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 21
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by chacane67:
The 'No-Slip' would act much the same, but it would be much tamer than its previous design. Inside the No-slip, it has a spring loaded device (bias springs) which forceably keep the drivergear (which works off of the pinion shaft blocks) dis-engaged form the coupler (side gear), until the vechicle accelerates/de-celerates. (BTW a no-spin and a lockrite are basically the same.)

What differential do you currently have? There may be another approach to solving your problem. I wont steer you away from a no-spin, I have a lockrite in one of my vechicles and it works great, but there may be a better answer....
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm unsurewhat differential I have? I am pretty sure, based on the history of the car that it is the original rearend. It is a standard 68 camaro convertible with a 10
bolt. From the reading I've been doing, it sounds like I may have to look inside to know for sure?
68Hugger is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 10th, 02, 07:57 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 195
You most likely have an 8.2" 'open' differential.

I would seriously consider an Eaton Posi.
chacane67 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome