I am looking into rebuilding my rearend. I need to be more informed about the pros or cons between a standard posi type carrier,(Stock, Eaton)or a standard type carrier with a locker installed. I was also curious as far as the effect of the C clip eliminator on the track of the rear. Does it make the track wider?
Thanks, Bakes

An Eaton is tuneable and rebuildable which lockers are really not.

If this is a daily driver I would go towards the Eaton. They are very tunable. But if this were a drag car I just might consider a locker. They take some time to get used to driving; they handle way different from each other.

I have a locker in a daily driver and dont get me wrong, its a LOT of fun to drive, but in inclimate weather you spend more time sideways than anything else. In dry weather you are definatly going to hook up in a strait line. Not to mention you are gonna have to get used to the locker 'resetting' and all the bangs and clunks associated with a locker. But the difference between the two I prefer to drive my '67 with the Eaton.

As for the c-clip elimnator's, no they dont change track width. I dont really recommend them either. They tend to leak and can be a pain to maintain. I would use the weld on housing end route though.

The weld on housing ends are the best, but can cost quite a bit to install. There is the cost of having them welded on and then you have to order special axles to fit the Ford axle bearings. This does make the best set up. The housing ends are about $65 and the cost of welding them on could be around $100. The axles are the most expensive at around $400. Your stock brakes still bolt on after the hole in the backing plate is enlarged.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead

Thanks a lot guys! Your responses were right on. Exactly what I wanted to know. Is this the greatest web site ever, or what?
Thanks, Bakes

I have a question of what you mean when you describe lockers and how they act on the street. Would the new Powertrax no-slip traction system behave much the same? It claims to be very streetable. I'm considering giving it a try , but would like to hear from someone who has. Can be installed by someone such as myself without special tools. Put my new 406 in this summer and am having some traction problems...thanks

The 'No-Slip' would act much the same, but it would be much tamer than its previous design. Inside the No-slip, it has a spring loaded device (bias springs) which forceably keep the drivergear (which works off of the pinion shaft blocks) dis-engaged form the coupler (side gear), until the vechicle accelerates/de-celerates. (BTW a no-spin and a lockrite are basically the same.)

What differential do you currently have? There may be another approach to solving your problem. I wont steer you away from a no-spin, I have a lockrite in one of my vechicles and it works great, but there may be a better answer....

I haven't installed the No Slip in anything yet, but I have installed several Lock Right kits, including the one in my truck. The Lock Right does a lot of poping, but works well. I have heard nothing but bad news on the No Slip. I have had several people say that it worked fine for a while, then just quit working.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
Byars Performance
High Performance Drive Train Parts And Service
www.lubedealer.com/biggearhead

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by chacane67:
The 'No-Slip' would act much the same, but it would be much tamer than its previous design. Inside the No-slip, it has a spring loaded device (bias springs) which forceably keep the drivergear (which works off of the pinion shaft blocks) dis-engaged form the coupler (side gear), until the vechicle accelerates/de-celerates. (BTW a no-spin and a lockrite are basically the same.)

What differential do you currently have? There may be another approach to solving your problem. I wont steer you away from a no-spin, I have a lockrite in one of my vechicles and it works great, but there may be a better answer.... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm unsurewhat differential I have? I am pretty sure, based on the history of the car that it is the original rearend. It is a standard 68 camaro convertible with a 10
bolt. From the reading I've been doing, it sounds like I may have to look inside to know for sure?

You most likely have an 8.2" 'open' differential.

I would seriously consider an Eaton Posi.