recurving mechanical advance - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 03, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 257

Is there anything I should be worried about when I recurve the mechanical advance? Will it cause a need for better gas? Is this a simple operation that will net me a better running cruiser/ daily driven car. The engine is a stock 350 non smog, 9-1 compression in great mechanical condition with everything stock.

Also has anyone used a harmonic dampener cover that bolts on to the inner ring of the damper? I provides engraved timing marks and doesnt allow the timing to be screwed up if the outer ring slips. Does this cause any problems with the dampener fitting?

Im going to be going some work on the 350, heat crossover clean up, intake gaskets, water pump gaskets, timing chain and gears, points, maybe an advance recurve.

Any advice to make this go easier is wonderful, I have done chain and gears before along with the intake but maybe there are some secrets???

Thanks, Mike
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 03, 03:33 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: LR AR
Posts: 2,372

I have a damper cover on my spare 350. Works fine. You could have issues if the timing pointer is very close to the balancer. Otherwise they are good looking, functional, and inexpensive.

On the engine in my car currently I just made a mark with a sharpie at 36 degrees and colored in the factory groove at zero. That is all you realy need unless you have solid lifters and then you could just add marks every 90 degrees and be done with it.

The recurve will improve performance but if done right it should not change the octane requirement. I like to reduce the amount of advance in the factory mechanical advance mechanisim and replace it with additional initial advance. You can braze up the slot in the autocam plate or hit it with a mig welder and then file it into shape with a small rat tailed file. Usualy you need to remove roughly 1/3 of the travel.

The sum of initial plus all the centrifugal advance should be about 36° for a 350. You should try to have it all in by about 3000 RPM. A good guess would be 12° initial with 24° in the centrifugal advance mechanisim but some engines like a few more degrees on the initial with a corresponding reduction in centrifugal. Just keep the total at around 36°.

Once you have the centrifugal advance reduced and the total set to 36°, you can play with the springs. Start with the softest set and increase the stiffness one spring at a time until the WOT ping goes away. Once you have the ping gone at WOT, connect the vacuum advance. That should be in the ball park. I prefer manifold vacuum advance for my own car as it has advantages but unless you are a wiz at tuning, you will have fewer issues hooking it up to the ported advance on the side of the carb. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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