pulley tensioner - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 05, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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i have a 91 rs tbi305. on the pulley tensioner, there are marks that tell you when the belt should be replaced. so in the midst of my overheating problems, i noticed that my belt wasn't the the "marked" area it was supposed to. so i replaced the serpatine belt. i was doing some p.m. on the car today, and noticed that it was out of the marked area again. could my belt have stretched that much in three weeks, or could there be another problem with the tensioner?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 05, 01:52 AM
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Not necessarily. Look at the mark on the tensioner and its range of use area on the stationary part.

As you're viewing the tensioner, imagine the belt is stretching. The tensioner rotates into the belt. As the belt stretches, the tensioner mark passes through the range.

Alot of times when a belt is replaced, the tensioner mark will be just outside the range, then as it wears/stretches, the tensioner will turn into the belt to take up the slack, thus, the mark will pass through the range and go outside the range on the other side.

So either you misread the mark-to-range scenario or, got a belt too short or too long, thereby placing the mark outside the range.

Then again, the belt may have actually stretched the amount shown. I might try the next shorter belt length. Five millimeters shorter will make a difference.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 05, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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if the belt is too streched out, that will have an affect on how things run won't it? i know the tensioner takes out the slack, but could it still create a problem?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 05, 02:08 AM
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Somewhat, unless there is a dragging accessory, say alternator loading the engine down, bad bearing in the water pump, power steering pump bearing going bad.

Serpentine belts don't squeal like a V-belt when pulling a dragging accessory. You won't hear it squeal unless the accessory is damaged enough it doesn't turn. However, if stretched enough, it won't turn the w/pump fast enough to circulate the coolant.

Does the fan(s) come on? There are two sources of power for the fan relay to close, one is by a thermal switch on the engine block/head, the other source is from the DEF & A/C position.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 05, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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the fan has been wired to come on when the car is on. when i had the engine rebuilt, it was wired that way. then the fan quit working, i wasn't sure where it was wired, so i had to rewire it. the car is saying cool since i replaced the heater core. i also had a small leak on the hose by the thermostat cover, but just tightened up the clamp, and it's fine. but as long as the "stretching" of the belt won't hurt anything, then i guess if ok.. when it comes time for a new belt again, i'll just try a smaller one, like you said before.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 05, 01:38 AM
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Kerep an eye on the engine temp. Its suppose to run rather hot by design with a 195*F themostat.

As long as the coolant system can retain its pressure as controlled by the radiator cap, say 15-17 lbs, it will be fine. When the coolant system boils over into the reservior, the there is a problem. At least this is what the dealer told me on my truck.

By design, the engine temp should run on the thermostat. This can be anywhere from 190*F to 205*F. As long as the system can retain pressure and no coolant is added to the reservior when cold, you should be good to go. The top radiator hose will be tight when you try to squeeze it with a rag.

The belt issue should be okay. Belts do stretch in time. Like I suggested earlier, a dragging accessory will help the stretching process.The water pump has a flat pulley on it and one will not hear it slip when the belt is stretched too far. If the backside, the non-grooved side, is very glazed, then one can bet the w/pump is slipping. Hopefully, the rebuilder did not put a standard rotation water pump in place of the reverse rotation water pump. Then the engine would overheat and boil out all the time.

You might try and clean out from the rear, the A/C condensor and radiator to clean out the debris to help air flow through both items. You would be amazed as to what and how much falls out. Spray both sides of the radiator and A/C condensor with 409 or Simple Green and let soak, then rinse with the garden hose.

If the engine was rebuilt, the radiator, themostat, cap, hoses, coolant and belt should have been changed also. The system is only as strong as its weakest link.

Good luck.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 05, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
 
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the thermostat is a 160*f thermo. i replaced the water pump about a year ago because of squeeling i heard. it was suggested that the bearings could be bad, so i replaced it. right now, things are running ok. when i sit too long, 5 minutes or longer, with the car running, the temp creaps up. then it will stay close to 220 for about 5-10 min.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 05, 08:45 AM
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I would suggest either the radiator too small or too thin, or fan is not pulling enough air.

You also might check to see all of the covers and shrouds are in place. The cover(s) being the one on the bottom of the nose going from the radiator support to the bumper cover. This would allow it not to recycle hot air from the radiator back around into the front of the radiator. Make sure there is no leaves,paper bags, or other debris in the air flow.
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