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BBC install with trans???

5K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  Fred Ficarra 
#1 ·
So I dropped the motor in without the trans just to make sure I had the right motor mounts - seems there were a couple different options for my application. Anyway dropped right in - sits beautifully but not sure how to attach the trans and drop in. It was sooo tight going in by itself, I don't see how it would work with the trans. I bought a load leveler thingy from summit anticipating the install. My question now is how do you guys do it? Do you have to remove the header panel and rad support to do it? Do you have the car up on jack stands? Thanks
 
#2 ·
I don't have a bbc but suspect its installed same way, depending on your trans. With the leverer, motor and trans is just about pointed down, once you get it into the bay, you might use a floor back to let the trans extension ride back with out damaging the tail, Just keep leverler adjusted and cherry picker lowering as needed.

I have done Tko 600 but nothing like the T56. Make sure radiator is out and it may be easier for you, to begin looking at headers installation. Never done a bbc,
 
#3 ·
1) There are no not really any "options" for the correct engine mounts on your application. You want the 67/68 Big Block framestands and the 67/68 short and wide engine mounts. I would recommend the Energy Suspension poly mounts.

2) What transmission crossmember are you using ? If you use the BBC frame stands your transmission needs to be offset 1/2" to the passenger side and 3/4" forward of the small blocks location.

3) I initially missed that you are using a custom subframe. Is it made to be used with the offset BBC framestands or "on Center" with the SBC framestands ?

4) I would put the transmission in after the engine is in.
 
#4 ·
Good , you will need the engine leveler. Make sure the torque converter is into the transmission all the way. 3 clicks. Bolt the transmission to the engine and check for a gap between the flex plate and converter. If ok bolt it to the flex plate. It is tight but it will go in if you have the correct oil pan. Do not install fan on the front until the engine is in. Slide the cross-member back enough to raise the rear of the transmission up. Then slide it in place and install bolts in the transmission mount and in the frame rails.
 
#5 ·
I am using Moroso 62530 solid motor mounts as recommended by my aftermarket sub-frame supplier(Martz Chassis).
T-56 Trans crossmenber is also from Martz which I cannot get to work. Not sure what is wrong but my T-56 needs to up higher to fit the crossmember about 3/4" and it is already hitting the tunnel. I used a 4" holesaw to initially cut out where the shifer came through but wondering if I have to cut out the entire rectangular shifter mount to get the whole trans up higher?:confused:
I did bolt the trans to the motor and put it in as one unit BUT had to take out my header panel and rad support as well as get the front and rear of the car on jack stands with the rear higher to get it in. Mind you I had no help - doing it all by myself so it's a little harder.
 
#7 ·
Thanks John. I about had a heart attach yesterday thinking something was waaaaay wrong. Whew:bow:
 
#8 ·
Does your Martz subframe come with the framestands already installed ? Your solid motor mounts attach to these on your subframe. Stock subframes BBC are offset.
 
#10 ·
Installing motor and tranny together means at some point having to stop lowering, block the motor so it doesn't move and relocate your chains. Once past the radiator support you can start levelling the package out to finish. Big block or small block. That is to say if the transmission is attached.
This time around I will have the car up on floor jacks, the tranny (manual) underneath scooted back on the cross member and supported by a floor jack. I'll lower the big block with the clutch and bellhousing attached in level to the mounts. Push the bolts through. While still supported by the engine hoist I'll get underneath and push the transmission in and bolt it up.
That big block is so heavy. I'll put it in place without the heads and bolt them up afterwards and assemble the rest of the motor in place.
I have new paint in the engine compartment as well as the body and this is the way I'm gonna do it to try and keep from scratching any paint.
 
#11 ·
If my car was already painted like yours, I would most likely do the same thing you are doing cept with the heads on. That a lot of big torque wrench flying around un-necessarily IMHO. I realized that I had issues because I had all the accessories bolted on the front limiting my space.:clonk:
 

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#12 ·
Can you say Holy Hole??? I originally started off with a 4" holesaw around the shifter l:)
Don't worry - that steering wheel is going - that was my back in the 80's look :D
 

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#14 ·
Maybe trade for TH400 and Gear Vendors OD?
 
#15 ·
Sorry Fred, I was never the automatic type of guy. Even if I was, I am not all that sure that trans would take the hp and torque of my motor without twisting it up.
Please don't get me wrong, I am not complaining about the size of the hole I had to cut as it will get a nicely fabricated cover and be good as new, I was just simply trying to say that it wasn't what I was expecting when I started cutting lol
 
#18 ·
Thanks! And have fun!
 
#19 ·
:hurray:No more hole:hurray:

Had to make my own cover. The one from Speedtech would not have worked for me. Mine actually ended up 2-1/2" longer than their version because of the cylindrical piece behind the shifter hit the tunnel and also had to be tapered wider towards the bellhousing side. Would have been nice to buy one since it took me most of the day to get it fabricated and welded in but at the end of the day - we are back in business:thumbsup:
 

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#20 ·
Nice work!
 
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