can't get engine to idle, runs rough, need advise - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 04, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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ok, this is what I have:
68/327 auto. the engine is original & seems strong. I have a brand new edelbrock carb, replacement dist, new wires & new plugs.
I have 3 dead cylinders #'s 1,3 & 7
left bank
I ran compresion test & all cylinders test out over 160PSI compresion
I pulled the valve cover & looked at the lift on the rockers, all have nice high lift.
I am running out of ideas on this thing.
I replaced the dist. with HEI & have the power fed directly from the battery.
any suggestions?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 04, 02:39 AM
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Let me suggest some items,
1. Firing order correct?
2. Did it run this way before the changeout of carb & HEI?
3. Was the intake manifold changed?

If manifold was not changed, we could, maybe, rule out the intake gasket, but still a possibility.

Its one side of the engine. Could swap the pre-Edel carb and see if its running improves. If it does, then the mating of the carb to intake needs addressing, or the carb itself needs adjustment or its faulty for some reason. If it doesn't, then swap HEI, but I don't think it would be an HEI. Don't forget the ground wire on the coil.

Also, something about the dist cap, I learned from members here, CRS has taken over my mind, (can't remember squat). But with it being 1, 3 & 7, every other cylinder on the firing order. Something about the dist cap.......

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 04, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
 
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car ran like this when I purchased it, if not worse. the firing order is correct, checked it several times. the carb was my first choice, I removed the quad & rebuilt it, the car ran better, the n I replaced the dist & wires & plugs, car ran better, then I checked the valve lift, it was ok, then I replaced the quad for the edelbrock & the car ran better but still 3 dead cylinders. manifold never been off & no vaccumm leaks
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 04, 05:56 AM
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It was like this before you started changing parts? Hmmm, bet it made the previous owner crazy, too.

First, What is a dead cylinder? Are we talking completely not firing, sounds no different when you pull those 3 wires off? Or are we talking 3 cylinders that misfire?

Have you run a timing light on each and every plug wire, and tested for a steady prark at variour rpm's?

Have you checked for foreign objects or critter nests or other obstructions in that side of the intake manifold?

Does the power brake booster or pcv go to that side of the manifold? Could one of these be giving you an uncontrolled vacuam leak?

Have you put a vacuam guage on the motor, and what do you see? high? low? needle bouncing all over?

Get us more info, cause this don't make a whole lotta sense here, either... even half a blocked dual plane or a dead side on the carb would affect 1,4,6,7 OR 2,3,5,8...

Hmmm... head gasket maybe? Is your coolant blowing bubbles?





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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 04, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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when the spark is shorted, it makes no difference in the RPM's, as well as if the plug wires are removed from the plug. grounding out the wire indicates a good spark as well as a spark tester.
timing light works on each wire, as does the spark tester. there does not seem to be any obstructions in the intake, & fuel is getting to the plugs. thee is no booster on this engine.& pcv plugged gives no difference. I have not checkedthe vacumm gauge yet & the radiator does not blow bubbles.
as I have said, I have checked all the basics & am ready to rip the engime down & start exploratory surgery but really do not want to go that route
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 04, 05:41 AM
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3 completely dead holes... with known good spark, fuel, and compression makes absolutely no sense





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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 04, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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i know, so what do i do next?
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 04, 06:26 AM
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I'm not sure what ripping down the engine will accomplish .. you already stated that you have good compression which would tell me that heads and cylinders are in good working order.. I think I would rip into the distributor maybe something wrong with the internals are you sure it is firing tdc on the compression stroke? I don't know I am just speculating. Next guess how about fuel getting to those cylinders. Very odd to have 3 cylinders in a row that do not work ...nevermind that fact that they supposedly work with fuel, spark, and compression... check for blockage in the intake manifold maybe .. I dunno just guessing ...maybe I am way off base.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 04, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
 
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well this evening I pulled the intake & inspected the gasket 7 performed a leak down test & another compresion test- cold
compresion readings are
2-190
4-190
6-210
8-215
1-190
3-210
5-210
7-210
the intake gasket looked perfect outside of damage I did pulling it.
the leak down test showed no valve leakage but each cylinder (4 of them)I tested had air going into the crankcase(not sure if I was doing the test right) my gauge needle was messed up so I figured I would just check to see if air was coming out of the head or exhaust. found no issues there. reassembled the engine & started it up & it still runs the same
how can I ave great comression readings & air leaking into the crankcase?
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 04, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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by the way, I bought another distributor & tried that last weekend
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 04, 10:28 AM
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Try spraying WD40 into the air horn of a running engine at operating temperature.

If engine picks up in rpm, lack of fuel, manifold blockage, low cam lift (wiped cam lobe), intake/exhaust valve too tight, or a warped manifold/head.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old Oct 1st, 04, 12:18 PM
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I would say that with all of the things you have replaced and your compression readings - the only thing left is the intake manifold itself. Is it cracked some place? What do your plugs look like? are they new? I guess it could also be a bad cam. If you have access to a dial indicator you measure your lift and see. Hope you get it figured out!!!
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
 
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well I checked the intake, sprayed starting fluid all over while running & no difference. I dropped the headers & no difference, I have been beaten!!!!
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 06:54 AM
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do you have an EGR valve on this motor?

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 04, 07:38 AM
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You said the motor seemed original. But your cranking pressure seems high for an original 327 unless it has been built. Do you have any idea what cam it might have in it?

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