It's ALIVE!!! Finally got her running last night! - Team Camaro Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 04, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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I finally started my car last night for the first time in a couple of months after all the work and having the heads done. It cranked for a bit, then fired right up and settled into a nice smooth idle. I filled it a quart over full including the .5 liter of GM Engine Oil Supplement.

Since this carb was already on the engine, and my timing must've been pretty close, I didn't get any discoloration on my ceramic headers.

I have a question on break in though. In my engine book it just says to drive easy for 500 miles. My Comp Cams directions for my new cam didn't say anything about break-in at all, unless it was on another sheet that got misplaced.

What is the proper method for break in? I ran the car for about 20 minutes sitting in my driveway last night and I altered the RPM's up and down in intervals. I initially idled it around 1000 rpm, then moved it down to 800. I would rev it slowly up to around maybe 3000-3500 at the most and slowly bring it back down. I'd say it spent half the time at the different idle speeds and half the time moving it up and down. I didn't drive it anywhere. I plan to drive it tonight for an hour or so without getting into the throttle.

I hear people talk about the first 20 minute run, but I guess it wasn't clear to me if that was easy driving under load or sitting at idle, etc. or how high to rev the engine.

Please advise,
Josh
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 04, 05:15 AM
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Well you're supposed to run it at 2000-2500 rpms for about 20 mins. without letting it idle for cam break in. Hopefully you'll be okay since you did change the rpms upward off idle. Years ago I rebuilt a Mopar 340 engine and cranked it up and immediately took it to an idle thinking that was the best thing to do. I still have the engine in my truck at it has run fine all this time.

Anyway congrats on getting her going, I know you've had a tough time with it. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Robert

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 04, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Robert! Especially for all your input over the past few months. It sure has been a project, much more than I originally hoped for with my "1000 miles on it" motor supposedly.

I guess with so many theories about break in procedures, I'm not going to get to worried about it. I fiddled with it enough that I think it should be okay, it did idle for awhile, but between the two speeds I used and moving the throttle up and down I think it should be fine, or at least I'm hoping so. I'm going to drain the water tonight and add an antifreeze mix, then hook up the remaining odds and ends, put on the hood and take it for a drive!

I'm pretty excited, and very much relieved that it fired up so nicely.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 04, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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I do have another question. It seemed straightforward at the time, but my alternator has three wires. One that sits on a terminal with a nut the screws down and two that have little spade connectors. I don't recall which spade is for which wire. I have a gray wire that is thicker, and a blue wire (I think, I don't recall here at the office). I'm sure it matters which is which, is there a good way to tell? It seemed to run fine last night, but I have an Optima battery, which I'm sure could keep it running for awhile without an alternator.

Suggestions?
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 04, 01:39 PM
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The gray wire should be white (probably was at one time) and goes to the "R" terminal. The dark blue wire goes to the "F" terminal. I had to wait unitl I got home to look at mine to be sure.

As far as further break in, the bottom end already has plenty of miles on it so I'd say take it for a few short runs to heat cycle the other new parts then let it eat. Just an opinion of course.

Robert

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355ci 10:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Comp Mag 280H, Performer RPM, 700r4 (2000 stall), 3.55 posi A/C PS PDB Hotchkis

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 04, 03:35 PM
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Congrats Josh,
Perhaps an unusual break in, but take her out for approx 500 miles. bring her back in and change out the oil and filter.recheck the timing, idle and plugs then go have fun.. so say this time tomorrow you should have fresh oil in it again and ready to go play. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 04, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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I took it for a spin last night, went pretty well. I found some droplets of oil on the front timing cover. Not sure if they are from the front seal, or the gaskets. Any ideas? I'm not sure how it could get from the gaskets to the front of the cover, but time will tell once I can run it for awhile it'll be more evident. Does the new front seal in the timing cover for the harmonic balancer need to 'seat'? I thought it would provide a pretty solid seal based on it's construction, and I'm pretty sure it's not damaged. Is it normal for a few droplets to make their way out initially?

Robert, which is the 'R' and 'F' terminal on the alternator? I don't recall seeing markings, maybe there are and I need to look closer. Which one is on the 'driver' side and which on the 'passenger' side if you recall, that'll help. I switched them around a couple of times and my batt/alternator tester showed the same reading both times, around 13-14 volts.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 04, 04:42 AM
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The "R" was towards the drivers side and the "F" was towards the pass. Not sure I'd rely on that though. I had to get a flash light and my specs on the see it. As far as the oil drops I'd wipe it off and take a wait and see attitude. With all the work you've been doing it could of come from anywhere.

Robert

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355ci 10:1, 64cc Edelbrocks, Comp Mag 280H, Performer RPM, 700r4 (2000 stall), 3.55 posi A/C PS PDB Hotchkis

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