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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 14th, 02, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
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Got a simple question. I'm replacing my intake manifold gasket due to suspected vacuum leak and definate oil leak. I've never done this and what to do it correctly. The intake had the old side gaskets sealed to it and the front and rear of the intake had rubber gaskets. My questions are: Do you seal the gasket to the side of the intake? Also I've heard you do not use gaskets on the front and rear, you just seal it?? Any info would be appreciated. The engine is an all original DZ 302, stock intake and heads in case you need this info. Thanks.

Almost forgot. The bolts had what looked like a tread lock type sealant on the?? Do you put the bolts in with or without lock tight?

Mr.G

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Jess - Camaros Limited Nor-Cal
69 Z/28 Lemans Blue

[This message has been edited by MrGrumpy (edited 11-14-2002).]
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 14th, 02, 04:34 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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GM uses no sealer on the cyl head manifold gasket, the end gaskets have a little silicone on the corners.
I have had problems keeping the end gaskets in and making them seal, if you put any silicone sealer on the end gaskets, the sealer makes the end gasket slippery, and they can pop out when you torque the manifold down. I have also seen them split if the cyl heads or block have been milled.

I like the Fel-Pro gasket set with raised blue print which require no sealer on the manifold side but they suggest a VERY thin smear of silicone sealer on the cyl head side around the ports and water passages. I have gone without the sealer and they sealed OK on the ports. Only one side has the raised blue seal, the head side is flat, that is where they say to put a little sealer.

I use a thick bead of black silicone sealer in place of the front and rear seals, I dont' use the end seals that come with the set at all.
David

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 04:41 AM
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Very simple. You can use a slight smear of RTV sealant to hold the intake gaskets in place. Use ONLY RTV sealant on the front and rear. Apply a bead of about 1/4" from gasket to gasket. You will be sorry if you use the cork pieces supplied with a lot of intake sets. Applying a drop of Loc-Tite to a clean intake bolt is always acceptable.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 05:01 AM
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I didn't think you used loctite on the intake bolts. I have always heard to use thread sealant to keep the oil from working it's way up the threads and eventually making a mess. Could be wrong, but that's what I was told.

BTW, the RTV sealant is available in chevy orange and looks better than the black on an original engine.

[This message has been edited by kurt6325 (edited 11-15-2002).]
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 05:55 AM
 
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I haven't seen the orange sealant. The 2 types that I use are blue for any bolt that goes into a water jacket and black for any area that is exposed to oil. Also when you set the beads on the ends of the block, let them set up for a ehile before you install the intake. I usually wait about 30-45 minutes.

doug
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the reply guys. Yes the kit came with the cork type front and rear gaskets. I bought Permatex? black RTV sealant. Thanks again for the input.

Mr.G

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Jess - Camaros Limited Nor-Cal
69 Z/28 Lemans Blue
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 08:37 AM
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Cameron
 
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Yes, definitely use the silicone instead of the end gaskets that come with the kit. One other thing, make sure that you allow the silicone to skin over before you mount the intake. The instructions should tell you how long to wait, but I think it is around 15 minutes.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 02:02 PM
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John
 
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Permatex "Ultra-Copper" RTV is almost orange in color - that's what I always use; put thread sealer on the intake bolts to stop oil migration - no Loctite is necessary. I also use the skinny stainless AN washers under the intake bolt heads with an aluminum manifold - keeps the bolt heads from chewing up the aluminum surface. Make sure you clean both the block and intake sealing surfaces at the front and rear with lacquer thinner or something similar before applying the RTV sealer so you get a good bond.

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[This message has been edited by JohnZ (edited 11-15-2002).]
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 02, 05:33 PM
 
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Hey, aren't you the guy that had bad luck with the garage floor? If so, I assume that it turned out nicely since you are working on your car again. Good luck

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[This message has been edited by Judd (edited 11-15-2002).]
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 02, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yes, that's me. The garage is fixed and I got my car back from DJD's house a few days ago. I'm going to try and put the intake back on tomorrow. Thanks for the help. I keep you guys informed on how things go. I'll look for some of that orange RTV today that may look a little better if I make a mess.


Mr.G

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Jess - Camaros Limited Nor-Cal
69 Z/28 Lemans Blue
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