What synthetic oil will work best for my car? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 02, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I already did a search and got some good info about synthetic oils and because I can obtain it alot easier I will probably go with Mobil 1 but I have some other questions I need answers to because my situation is a little different than most.

I put a 1970-1/2 LT-1 4 bolt main crate motor from GM in my car I ordered it with 11-1 high dome pistons, Camel heads and 375hp cam. I did this in 1980. At this time I might have 10,000 miles on it. I know I don't drive it enough but when I drive it I don't baby it it was made to go and that's what it does. My plan is to drive it more but only nice days and once in a while during the winter.

I've been running the same oil in it since I got it Pennzoil 20w50 Race oil and at the time it was what was recommended by local mech. drag racers. Now i'm reading all these horror stories about how bad Pennzoil is including their filters but now i'm wondering if it will be ok to change to Mobil 1 now that although the mileage doesn't show it the engine is 22yrs. old?

The engine runs great (knock wood) I have to add a little oil sometimes, ever since I got it. but I never see any oil puddles, i've been told that the oil loss is because of my high compression.

If you're wondering about fuel I use Sunoco 94, Octane booster and Lead substitute. So what should I do change to Mobil 1 or just change to a better non synth oil? What grade Mobil 1 15w50? What grade non synth? What oil filter should I use? If you don't have the mileage on your oil should it still be changed every year or when you get 3000 miles on it?


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1967 Camaro coupe Deluxe interior LT-1 350 w/ 4spd. M-21 trans and 12 bolt rear.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 02:03 AM
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Interesting that I ran across you at this point.....I am doing more research on an article that I am writing for a spring release at Northern and Southern Rodder Magazines on oils and filters. Here is some help and a preview.

In general you can switch to synthetic anytime you want. Mobile One is an excellent product along with Redline, Amsoil, Valvoline and a few more. They all measure up when tested. Check out this link Synthetic vs Regular Oil for a more thorough explanation of synthetic vs dinosaur goop! Also, here is a link on actual testing of differing brands and there respective performances Synthetic Oil Test Sheet and is a very good reference.

Here is the Mobile One performance data sheet for your information Mobile One Fact Sheet

In general, synthetics are slipprey-er than regular (making for less wear and more crank hp and improved milage), is very innert (will not combine with moisture and combustion products to form acids and sludge ....something that in and of itself is worth running syn based products), is more stable environment for additive packages, takes alot more temperature beating, and can be easily pushed to over 7000 miles, regardless of use.

I would recommend 10w40 or 20w50 for generally most performance engines according to what my research is providing. If your outside temps get below 40 degrees, I would go with the 10w40 for all seasons.

In so far as filters are concerned, I have found that any filter made by WIX who also makes OEM filters and NAPA filters as well are as good as it gets for the price. Check this link out for testing on filters... Oil Filter Study

In general your engine will like the change and even get a smiggin better milage as well as a few hp too.

I noticed your comment about octane boosters and could not help commenting. In-so-far as these boosters are concerned, I also just did an article that will be out in February and here is some interesting and informative reading on octane boosters at Octane Booster Information

A small can of 12 to 16oz octane booster will not appreciably effect the octane of a gallon of gas, better yet a tank full! Try buying toulene or xylene for a booster. Cheaper and WILL appreciably effect the fuel rating.

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STEVE JACK
ConceptOne Pulleys and Brackets
Northern/Southern Rodder Magazine's "Jack'Stands" author and creator
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[This message has been edited by HOTRODSRJ (edited 11-20-2002).]
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 04:52 AM
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I agree with Steve that a 10w-40 100% synthetic would do your engine wonders. Stay away from partial syns, they are a waste of money for the quality you want in your engine. Ive used Amsoil since 1975 and I worked for Amsoil Corp., so Ive seen the testing, bench tests, field tests, and tests done by fleets and individuals for over 25 years now. Its almost a waste of time to keep testing something over and over, so just use it and enjoy the benefits. You will find an increase in RPM, longer life, up to 25,000 miles or one year with filter changes at 6 months. Id also recommend Amsoil depth type filters. They are extremely heavy and filled with cotton fibers and bypass valve, they filter down to single digit microns, unlike paper filters that filter in the 25 micron range.
Dont stop with engine oil either, use the Synthetic gear oil in your tranny and rear end and synthetic grease on your axles.
The engines that folks are building up around this site deserve the BEST lubrication, not the cheapest, so dont spare a dime when it comes to the oil that keeps things running cleaner, smoother, longer.
If you'd like more information email me directly. I have many articles of tests done over the years to compare products.
Id also recommend oil anaylsis once a year to determine what is going on inside your engine. The results give you wear metals readings and any indication of antifreeze or other byproducts of combustion that might be detremental to your engine. For $25 thats great info. to have.
Good luck
Click

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 03:59 PM
 
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I have run pennzoil for 40 years!!! No problems at all. They are the number 1 selling oil in america. There fully synthetics are as good as all the others that were mentioned, I have 4 cars with 240000, 210000, 244000, 205000, miles and they all use pennzoil and pennzoil filters. Allied signal makes the filters and they also make the fram filters. I do believe baldwin makes the best filters though. As for differences in oil quality and so on, they all are tested to uphold the minimums that the SAE requires them to do. Granted some do it better than others but they are all equal up to 3000. where the difference begins is how fast the oil breaks down after the 3000 mile mark. Pennzoil is 1st in all the big names. Synthetics do make a difference, I recently dyno'd my 2001 SS camaro and got 305RWHP. After synthetic motor oil, gear lube, tranny fluild the RWHP went up to 320. I had to pinch myself. With some very simple bolt ons I could be up in the 350RWHP class, damn this new stuff is great, but my heart still lies in the 60's. And if you ask me how I got all this pennzoil info, Im a pennzoil chemist and we are as good or better then anyone else.


I wouldnt reccomend synthetics for a motor built for the older heavier oils of the 60's. A small leak or even no leak at all can turn to a huge leak with synthetics. Plus those motors werent built for synthetics and could possibly consume abnormal amounts of oil. This is all non valid if the motor has been freshed up.

[This message has been edited by MoeSS396 (edited 11-20-2002).]
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 04:22 PM
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MOSS396....I am impressed with your information...and I have a question since you are a chemist in this industry.

I get a few mechanics that swear that synthetics will produce more leaks (in all cars that are converted) but I have not had this experience nor can I find a sole around me that has converted to experience this either. I think this is a myth because I cannot find one reason why this should happen.

Do you have some insight on this? I would like to hear it from a professional.

BTW, I had the same thing happen to my Dodge Dakota truck.....after converting it to sythetics the power by the seat of the pants was up and the milage improved a couple of MPG too.


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STEVE JACK
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[This message has been edited by HOTRODSRJ (edited 11-20-2002).]
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 04:34 PM
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Steve if I can, there is some background to the leak issue with syns. In older cars with small leaks in gaskets, the petro oils would slowly solidify in those leak areas with the heating up and cooling down. The carbons would literally fill the gap, plug it. Then syns came along and with their excellent cleaning ability, they slowly cleaned out the carbon, gum, varnish and the leak came back. Thats where some thought the syn 'caused' the leak when in fact it opened an old leak again.
The good 100% syns also use seal swell additives to control swelling since they found the syns also cleaned out seals such as on valve stems, again causing the old valve stem seal smoke on start up and hard acceleration.
The better the syn, the higher the price and the longer its service life is extended. With proper depth filtration and a bypass filter system thats available, an oil can now go over 100,000 miles without change, just topping off and filter changes. Its been done all over the world with tremendous results. Less down time means more productivity.
Its encouraging to see all the petro companies now coming out with syns to reinforce what the original ones were saying back 25 years ago.
Click

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69RS 350/255 LM1, Balanced, TRW forged pistons, .30 over, TH-350 auto.,
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 05:51 PM
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I would definitely recommend synthetic oil. From the independent test results that I have seen, Amsoil and Mobil One seem to be the best synthetic oils on the market. I'm sure that Pennzoil makes a good product too. I usually run Mobil One in my truck and my 69. I haven't noticed any oil leaks in either of them (that wasn't my fault) yet. When I did the first oil change in my 2002 Silverado, I did notice a 1-1.5 mpg increase in gas mileage.

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400 Small Block
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 05:52 PM
 
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FWIW, I just looked at our local Walmart Supercenter last weekend and found out they are selling a 100 percent synthetic 10W30, (I think), under their Tech2000 label.

I have used their regular Tech2000 oils for more years then I care to remember with excellent results AND the price is right too, imho....

I think $2.49/quart?? pdq67



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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 06:10 PM
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Petrolium causes rubber to swell. This causes the seals to fit tight around shafts. The old synthetic oils had nothing in them to cause seal swell, so the engines would start to leak. This is no longer true. Amsoil has additives in it that cause seal swell and will not cause a engine to start leaking. I have little confidence in any synthetic oil other than Amsoil or Mobile 1. I have looked into most of the other brands and they just are not up to the same standards as Amsoil and Mobile 1. Between the two, Amsoil is the best, but can be hard to find in some areas.

Click,
My direct jobber put over 196,000 miles on the Amsoil in his Dodge truck without ever changing it. When he traded in the truck for a bigger one it still had the same oil in it. He did regular oil sampling and every time the results came back the same, his oil with 196,000 miles on it was still better than a NEW bottle of Shell Rotella T.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, looks like I got the big discussion going again. Just wanted to throw this in here, my cars oil pressure is 60 at 1k idle and at 3k it's close to 80 and that's with Pennzoil 20w50 R/O. Moe has me feeling a little better about Pennzoil but I won't use there oil filters anymore. Are you sure about M1 10w40 instead of 15w50 my car does sit alot? Can you guys answer my other questions on first post? Thanks guys

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 06:49 PM
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196,000 miles on one oil change is pretty impressive. I prefer Mobil One simply because I feel it is the best oil that is widely available. You will gain HP and MPG as well as engine life. I will never use conventional again. I have never had a leak with it either. So pick your brand and make the switch, you won't look back.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 02, 03:08 AM
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I should scan the article, but Amsoil just sent me the wear comparison test between Amsoil and Mobil1.

There really wasn't a comparrison.



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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 02, 04:30 AM
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Here ya go Spames, that test result just came out last week. Gear head is right on, a good syn properly filtered can go a VERY long time without changing. The key is properly FILTERED, not pushed through corrigated paper.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 02, 05:59 AM
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check out Royal Purple. They have a website with lots of good information
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 02, 02:28 PM
 
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Another good site to find alot about oil is www.f150online.com than go to message boards. There is alot about synthetic oil. This is also a good site for those who have Ford 150 pickups.
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