I am looking for a solution with dealing with my starter not working after driving around for a bit in the heat. I have wrapped it in a starter blanket to no avail. I don't know if I should change the solenoid. It's a plain AC Delco stock starter.

Any guidance would be helpful.....thanks Steve

Use a heat shield where it has some air between the shield and starter.
Air is the best insulator.
Headers do not help, if installed.
Also, check the battery cabling ensuring clean connections on both ends.
Ensure cable size is large enough in handling current.
As heat goes up, so does resistance. Starter needs X amount of power (watts).
If starter is hot, then it needs X+some more watts and if cabling is not up to handling the current load, then a 'click' will be heard.
Ensure charging system is up to par and if OE mechanical voltage regulator, swap in an electronic reg or change to a higher amp internal reg alternator.
In earlier times, a good recharge didn''t happen until 2000 rpm for about 20-30 minutes.
and battery is in good condition - no less than 650 CCA's
Ensure all connection points are free of paint.
If subject starter is installed on a 1969 Camaro, move the negative loop attached to the alt bracket to the block - less resistance - shorter path.

Some members install a Ford solenoid and wire accordingly.

Best thing you can do is swap that heavy antiquated beast of a starter out for a modern GM mini-starter. Do a search because its too early for me to remember the exact years but I am pretty sure the 1997-2002 Sliverado, Tahoe, Suburban with the 5.7 is the model you want to get one from. Pick up a remanufactured GM starter for $125 bucks. Rare earth magnets, gear reduction drive, smaller size keeps it away from heat, and you lose 15 unwanted pounds. Works great. IF it craps out and that's a big if, you can get a free replacement at Autozone (other parts stores carry them also). I have one of these on my Camaro as do many others

As Jake said, check your charging system. Alternator and Battery. I had this issue of slow cranking when engine was hot. I have the original starter with ceramic headers and did the above to find out my one year old battery was bad. Not taking a charge at times. New battery and starts the same hot and cold.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I have a 110 amp single wire alt and double checked all connections and everything is tight. It's not a matter of slow cranking it's a matter of nothing happening when I try to start it when it's hot. The starter is old. I'm looking at a CSR100P but in reading about them on line they only have the battery connection and the red line from the ignition as the yellow terminal, which I believe provides power to the coil during cranking? Is not there. I don't know if I am even using it as I have an MSD 6al and blaster coil.

Looks like I'm going in that direction but if anyone has had any issues with an CSR100P starter I would appreciate your feedback. I will also get the heat shield.

Thanks

If you get the mini starter, no need for the heat shield.
Why not try a LS starter as Chet suggested for a third of the price?
Measure ign power at START position as I believe 1968's have ign power at START without the R terminal.

Using a mini starter is a matter of preference. A full size GM unit correctly rebuilt by a qualified tech will perform properly. I have one on my BB Chevelle with headers it starts when it is hot. Poorly rebuilt starters are bound to result in problems.

I too had problems with heat soak, the starter worked fine with exhaust manifolds then the headers went in and the slow cranking started to appear when it got hot.
Tried the shield for the solenoid, then Thermo-tec blanket, didn't really help so I put in one of those small high torque starters........problem resolved.

How old was the Delco starter? After you pulled it, did you have a qualified shop test the armature on a growler? Autozone or Anvanced would not even know what one was. There is a reason some Delco starters spin a hot motor and some do not. Usually they do not because the rebuilt unit is junk, or the rebuilder is incompetent.

A starter will not perform correctly when hot if the internals are failing. Not so when the guts are as they are supposed to be.

I've been ripped for suggesting this before, but it's cheap, easy and it solved my hot starting problem.

Why would I want to dump money on a starter that was failing me when for a 125 bucks I put in a new starter that hasn't given me any trouble whatsoever.
If it works for you Good! doesn't mean everyone here has to follow suit, there are many ways to skin a cat.

Very true on rebuilding, if you have watched rebuilders taking apart GM starters, its one barrel for coils, one for armature , one for winding.
When some put together a starter, there appeared to me, no one is checking the winding on coils and armatures. They just clean , paint and put together with rebushed bearing ends. Very seldom does winding go bad , most time its just solenoids and drives. There are heavy duty windings they get mixed up.

I provided the information because many people do not know how components should be tested, or that finding a quality shop is important. Many shops rebuild starters with nominal components and the units do not last. For those who are restoring a car and want the original rebuilt, finding a good tech is important.


I stated it was a matter of preference, and never said everyone had to follow suit. If a job called for it, I'd use a new mini starter as well.

Slow cranking when hot and getting nothing (or a click) when hot are two different issues.

http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_electrical.htm

This has some interesting info might help.

I have the same issue
Did the heat wrap , higher cranking amp battery replaced my positive cable and added a high torque mini starter from db electric. Very rarely have the issue now only if the car sits running for a while after running it and it starts within 10 minutes not 30-40 like before. Still reading and researching the issue looking into the remote solenoid now. Good luck


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