First, I would like to give thanks to all of you guys who donate your knowledge to this site. It has given me the courage to perform things on my car that I would never have imagined doing by myself. I bought a 68 SS coupe at private sale from a guy who had zero history on the car. Everything I know about it I learned from this site. In the past 3 years I have stripped it down to bare metal and replaced anything with body filler to all metal. It has a brand new BC/CC paint job from a local shop who did a great job. I have installed all new tubular front end, complete 4 wheel disc brake conversion and shocks, all new fuel lines, carpeting, etc. Well, this season I thought I would be driving it a bit but after trouble shooting with the help of you guys again and after Driving it for 2-300 miles It developed a bad lobe on the camshaft. I currently have it torn down on an engine stand and have casting numbers for everything I believe you would need to guide me to match up a new cam.The cam that came out of it only has CWC 1589 stamped on it which , after research , means it is nothing special cam even though everyone who heard the motor said it sounded like a mild cam? Please let me know any additional I can get to help. I have refrained from asking over the years but I am stuck and don't want to put it back together all wrong. Thanks again for any info.

Equipment As follows:

291 double hump heads 2.02/160 (Keeping them)
355 CID 3970010 HP Block
4.546 Gear Ratio
Borg-Warner 4 -speed
Holly 750 DP
Victor JR. Intake.
Headers

I would go for this cam and I would use a 4° advance bushing in cam gear. Buy the cam kit with springs.
COMP Cams® - Xtreme Energy 268 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft, Part # 12-242-2 Dyno Sheet

You may have more numbers on the end of the cam.

Tony, sounds as though your car is turning out to be very nice.....post a pic or two of the progress.
I like the cam that Don has recommended. That said I think you have to build your engine, trans, rear end as the sum of all the parts working together in unison.
If you intend to drive the car on the track then I might be mistaken, 4:56 gearing is great from light to light but cruising on the highway its probably not the best choice without overdrive and even then I think its a tad high.
Your intake if I'm not mistaken has a sweet spot range of 3000- 8000 rpm, again a nice higher rpm piece if that's your intended driving use.
Maybe try going with 3:73- 3:55 as the highest rear ratio with the T-10, Edelbrock RPM air gap, heads should be okay. Downsize the carb with this cam. http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...carburetor.pdf

Don't forget to use the oil with zinc & phosphorous to combat the lost minerals needed for flat tappet use since the tree hugger's ruined it for us old car guys.

I agree with Simon above. I called several cam manufacturers and told them what I had and asked for a cam recommendation. Made a huge difference in the car. Consider a roller cam. I have a flat tappet and it is working well with proper break-in and the right oil with enough zinc but who knows how long that oil will continue to be available? FYI I was the least impressed with Comp Cams. Try Lunati or Bullet or Straub. Those are really high gears for the street - gear vendor OD would be nice. You can't beat an Edelbrock RPM on the street. If you want to do 1/4 mile runs on a regular basis that is different.

Thanks Gents, Yes you are all correct that the gears are very high (low) and I plan on swapping them out next as it is just a fun driver for me (no track). 3.55 or 3.73 it is then Simon.
And the oil with zinc reminder is great, I would have never had known and kept ruining Cams. I will check out the Comp Cam that Don suggested but can't just start replacing components and need to work with what I've got. With the paint job I've already got 20K + the initial cost of the car invested and the wife is ready to string me up. I hope you can understand. Thank you guys