Re: Oil pan/crossmember clearance question
I've done it with the small block engine and transmission still in the car. Crank the crankshaft until the TDC mark on the vibration damper at the 5 o'clock position to get the front crank weights out of the way. Disconnect negative battery cable, pull your distributor or at least the cap, drain cooling system and disconnect/remove your radiator hoses. Probably a good idea to remove the exhaust system pipes from the engine as well. Put a 2"x4" across the flat bottom of the oil pan and put a jack in place with enough pressure that the engine starts to relax the suspension as you jack it up. Remove the nuts from your motor mount hinge bolts (the bolts that hold the two halves of the motor mounts together) and then remove the bolts.
At this point the only thing holding the engine and transmission in place is the transmission cross member mount and the jack under the oil pan. Jack the engine up as high as you can, the higher the better and at least until you can slide the 1.5" thick portion of a small 2"x4" stud blocks in between the mount halves. If you can slide an extra piece of plywood in there as well even better. Now you can lower the jack as the engine is supported by the wood blocks between the mount halves. Might be helpful to remove the starter as well, and finally remove the oil pan.
I think that's everything.
69 Camaro Z/28 RS, original Azure Turquoise, M21 & 3.73 12-bolt posi. NOM 406ci, AFR 210 heads, Straub hyd. roller cam & Dynatech 1-3/4" > 1-7/8" headers, QuickFuel 750 Annular. Photos at:
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