Help!! Cracked block, rebuild or repower? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, I value the opinions of all of you, so here goes. I'm in the process of a major re-detail of my 69Z. The car is numbers matching and very correct, other than the CE warranty block. I opened it it up to give it a look and the #7 cyl was cracked. It turns out this engine is not a CE 302, but a CE LT1-350. I guess I knew that. It has all the correct parts for that motor, 010 block,including TRW pistons and 6th design rods. The crank is an "1182", which is a forged steel unit. My use of the car is weekend cruising, no racing, and the goal is to keep it looking factory bone stock(technical specs/appearances). Right now, it's very close. Here's the question. Since I have all the tin, correct 69 -186 heads, original carb/manifold/alt/distr/exhaust, and all the smog stuff, what do I do? All I really need is a short block. Do I now build a stock 302, which means find a crank/pistons and a block, or do I drop in a street 350, or do I go 383, and hide it all under the factory look. I'd also like to keep the same -186 heads. Since I do not have the original block, the value of the car will not likely change much. It will certainly never be original, but I want to stay with the factory restored theme. What do you suggest? Will a 4:10 stress out the 383 if I go that way? My 16 year old says go for power, since it's not original anyway. I can still keep the factory look regardless. Comments?

69 Z-28-Glacier Blue, X-77
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 04:10 AM
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Kool,if you got the bucks go for all steel 383 and hide since you are not matching numbers. Being that its a cruiser once in while, you also have the option to sleeve that hole and hone that hole out to your existing piston size, viola, you are a stocker again.. As for the rear gear, you will buzz any motor in the hi 3900 to 4000 range with a 4 speed and 4 10, If you have the option, lower the rear to 3 55 or so and if you have the bucks when you finish the 383 , go for tremac 600 and keep the low gears. I cruise mine at 2300 with 27"tire and 3:73 at 70. 20 mpg on the power tour,, could not believe it.
Forgot to mention , use a good sleeve installer and ask him to try to step the lower end of block , that way you will lock the sleeve in the block. I would also recommend that when you first get it all running ,, use plain water /coolant mix and a tube of KW silver block seal, to seal any thing in block. Let it run for long as you can . Dont dump entire contents into radiator at once,, or clump will form at bottom and will solidify. Just 2 cents worth.

TC # 349
Zdld17:69 Z/RS,306, NOR141111, 9N554XXX, 12A, X3G, 59/59,723, AFR 195,CCC282/290HR, TKO 600, BU1122B1E Owner since Dec 1968

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 04:24 AM
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Why not just sleeve the block and put it back together ?

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 05, 04:45 AM
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Location: Central Illinois
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If all of your 350 parts are in good shape(crank rods,pistons etc) Either sleeve the block or replace the block with a fresh one.
That would be the most cost effective. I think you will be happy with its power if you select the right camshaft.
PS adding some good rod bolts and balancing the bottom end will help it live in higher rpm's too.

68 Camaro, 555 big block, Doug Nash 5-speed, 3.54 gear.
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