Where's the oil going? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 03, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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I'm burning about 1 qt for every 3 tanks of gas. The plugs show it too....

It smokes a little bit occassionally on start up, and when I flog it out on the open road, it leaves a nice smoky haze behind me.

I'm guessing this is due to the rings, and possibly the valve seals. Is there any way to be sure it's the rings? or should I not waste my time checking? And how would I check? What kind of tools would be required?

Just wondering if I can keep this thing together, and reduce the oil consumption while I save up for a new build-up.

Thanks
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 03, 03:43 AM
 
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I,m estamating that 3 tanks of gas equils roughly 600 miles, is that right? 1 qt every 600 miles is not good, but not horrible. I would replace the valve seals and do the "dump Krex down the carb trick" to see if that helps unstick a carboned up set of rings. Oil consumption problems are a real trick bag. A few slight oil leaks can also contribute to a loss of oil that may be blamed on bad rings.A little GM "EOS" in the oil wouldn't be a bad idea also.As far as driving the car until a rebuild, I would as long as you keep a sharp eye on the engine as well as listening for strange noises.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 03, 04:11 AM
 
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I can relate Spames, my 327 puffs smoke for the first minute or so after startup.

As I understand it, if the engine smokes at startup and then quits (like mine does), the valve stem seals are bad. If the engine smokes on acceleration/deceleration (after it's warmed up),then the rings are suspect.

Perhaps a compression test could confirm whether or not the piston rings are bad.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 03, 05:12 AM Thread Starter
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It's probably more like 400 miles...

Dump Krex into the carb? How much? I've never heard of Krex... Where would I get it? I know where to get the EOS and I'll do some searches on replacing valve seals.

It doesn't smoke all the time on start-up (or I don't see it all the time).. What I'm dealing with is is an engine that is about 15 years old, but was sitting for about 13 of those 15 years. It runs good, and it feels like it'd be good for a high 13's pass (hopefully I'll find out this year).
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 03, 05:48 AM
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I don't know about others, but I've got a bottle of EOS in the 'Maro right now since I just broke in the cam (just a little extra protection after break-in), but man, the car blows out the blue smoke. I don't know if the EOS has a low flash temp, or if it squeeks by the valve seals and rings easier than normal oil. None of my plugs are oil fouled, and have a solid 180PSI on all cylinders.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 03, 04:45 AM
 
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Krex is an oil suppliment that is sold through auto dealers. It is a thin dark moly based liquid that works great at blasting carbon out of cylanders when you pour it down the carb while the engine is running. My thought is that there is a possability that the oil rings are carboned up and sticking in the piston grooves.I have seen small blocks with what sounded like rod knocks fixed with this method because the knock was caused by carbon build up in the chamber. If it was my car I would at least try. Use 2 cans ( they are small ) and smoke up the neighborhood.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 03, 05:10 AM Thread Starter
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Alright... I'll see what happens.

Thanks
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 03, 02:58 PM
 
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You can do the same thing by adding a qt. of good old Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil and then start her up, warm her up for a while and then drizzle some clean water down the carb. at about a 12/1500rpm idle!!

Don't kill the motor with the water b/c you may hydrolock her, but rather keep her running so this will work.....

What will happen is that the MMO will get up into the rings and help unstick them, (if this is what is needed), plus the water steams and helps loosen and dislodge any carbon or "cinder" combustion deposits in the combustion chamber!!

This is easy to do and cheap to boot!!

Been there, done that!!

Just be prepared ta smoke up the place...

And something called Seafoam Gas Treatment can also be poured down the intake instead of water if wanted...

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 03, 07:02 PM
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I would spray the water as oppose to pouring it. You can maintain some control over the volume each cylinder receives if the water is atomized. I would also be a little wary of popping a head gasket, as water doesn't compress!

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 03:29 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not very optimistic, because things usaually aren't this simple for me, but I'll give the marvell and water a try since Krex seems to be a mystery around here. I'm to the point where I'll try anything to make it better. I'm a little weary about the smoke, because I'm in a development at the time. Hopefully my neighbors have a good sense of humor. Do I just keep doing the water trick until the smoke stops?
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 05:38 AM
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If it smokes on acceleration, its rings, on deceleration its guides/seals. Sounds like you have a little of both. I've used the water trick before on some old oil burners and it does work...but you have to have the rpms up a bit (1500 rpms or so) and just dribble the water in. You'll get a lot of steam out the tailpipes and probably some black chunks too. I would do that, and also maybe throw a set of valve seals on there, and run it until you have the $$$ for a rebuild. I've driven some horrible oil burners for years with practically no oil pressure and they just seemed to keep running and running.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 07:03 AM
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I'm with travis and pdq67 with the water injection. Keep it flowing and control the gas. You'll be surprised as to what comes out the pipes. A can of BG 44K to the fuel will work also.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spames:
Do I just keep doing the water trick until the smoke stops?
Just wondering...

Thanks
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well, Marvell comes in a 32oz bottle, so I dumped half into the engine, and the rest into the gas tank, which I then filled up...

Fired it off, and drove around a little bit, and then I slowly poured 24oz of water down into the carb...

I didn't notice a whole lot of black smoke -- either that, or my head was under the hood, and I just didn't see it... All I noticed was some light white smoke (which was probably the water, because it didn't really smell like anything). I noticed after doing this the engine seemed to run noticeably smoother. Either the water and mystery oil helped fix something, or the water going into the cylinders cleaned up my plugs.

Do you think 24oz was enough water? or should I have dumped more of it faster? I could tell that the water was slowing the RPM's down, so I don't think I was dumping too slow...

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 11:19 PM
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We used to dribble ATF down the carb at fast idle until the motor died, then let it sit for an hour, then take it out & floor it until the smoke cleared. No more knocking noise.
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