Motor mount replacement - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Motor mount replacement

Anyone know of a good write up for replacing the motor mounts? I jacked up the engine 3-4", enough to remove a section of the broken mount but getting to those three bolts looks impossible!
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 04:49 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Tight, yes

Not impossible

So, how did you lift the motor ? ......Ö. The whole thing, or just one side ?

An off-set, or swivel head ratchet wrench is needed. You may get lucky with a ratchet, extension, universal, and socket. (been a while since I've done it.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUG G View Post
Tight, yes

Not impossible

So, how did you lift the motor ? ......Ö. The whole thing, or just one side ?

An off-set, or swivel head ratchet wrench is needed. You may get lucky with a ratchet, extension, universal, and socket. (been a while since I've done it.
Jacked up the engine under the pan with a 2 x 4 and only did one side.
Should I lift both sides at the same time?
How far up can I go before damaging anything? What do I need to look out for when lifting the motor?
I need to go up more than where it is now, i cant event get a ratchet up in there.


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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 06:18 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Watch out for the distributor cap. It's close to the firewall anyway. The fan may hit the shroud also. It can be done. You jack up the engine with a 2x4 on the pan and do both sides at the same time. I used a box-end wrench and 3/8 ratchet with regular size socket.

It's a tight job but I was able to do it in a 8 foot wide storage space. Make sure you have good jack stands and block the rear tires.

Roger

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Last edited by rogerh; Sep 24th, 18 at 06:32 PM.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 06:24 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Yes, one side at a time will help.

They also make a socket the ha a box end so you can use a wrench

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 07:04 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Just to add, new safety type motor mount design, which is most mounts sold today, have a design that runs a strap on the mount, so if the rubber gets unbonded, the mount doesn't get loose, it captures, and holds things together.

One of the biggest problems with the non-capture mounts was/is when they come apart, especially on the driver side, they will let the engine rise in the chassis, locking the throttle linkage at whatever carb opening it was at when the engine raised up off the mount. The only save is to turn the key off, engine sits back down in the chassis, but, most cars had ignition switches that run an interlock, and when the key is turned off, the steering becomes locked. This is why the safety mounts were devised.

Just FYI.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 08:05 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

undo the shroud bolt and leave the shroud loose, take the dist cup off, jack the engine up till the bell housing hits the floor that will give you enough room to do the two top bolts with a air ratchet and the other with a short socket and hand ratchet. put piece of a 2x4 between the oil pan and cross member for safety

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 08:09 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave ray View Post
Just to add, new safety type motor mount design, which is most mounts sold today, have a design that runs a strap on the mount, so if the rubber gets unbonded, the mount doesn't get loose, it captures, and holds things together.

One of the biggest problems with the non-capture mounts was/is when they come apart, especially on the driver side, they will let the engine rise in the chassis, locking the throttle linkage at whatever carb opening it was at when the engine raised up off the mount. The only save is to turn the key off, engine sits back down in the chassis, but, most cars had ignition switches that run an interlock, and when the key is turned off, the steering becomes locked. This is why the safety mounts were devised.

Just FYI.

Rufas this a post of mine from another motor mount thread. It shows the recall that came out in 1972. This recall I believe, covers the straps you talk about.
https://www.camaros.net/forums/1340328-post13.html

Roger

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 18, 08:27 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Please, call me Dave.

Roger, yes, that modification was available. If I remember it correctly, it consists of a section of steel stranded cable and a U bolt setup. It wrapped around the exhaust manifolds, and cross member, in an effort to capture the engine from getting to high in the chassis if/when the mounts broke. They usually got removed in the long run. I remember the new type safety mounts didn't come along until 1975 or so, that bulletin was in 1972.

The modification I am referring to is a new design (back then), that used a steel interface between the two steel plates, chassis and engine, that locked into each other, and if the rubber delaminated, the steel plates kept the mounts from allowing the engine to lift any distance that might cause trouble. These design mounts have become the standard of the industry.

When I do a serious engine in a serious chassis that makes real power, I install a pair of solid engine mounts, but not like most people do. Most would use two engine mounts and a trans mount of steel, but, that causes more possibilities for serious troubles. Chassis flex, engines and transmissions do not like that at all, they tend to crack, come apart, tear themselves out of the chassis.

I use a solid, or even a urethane mount on the driver side of the engine, and the transmission, and a safety type rubber mount on the pass side of the engine. This keeps the driver side, the side that reacts upward from engine torque, down in the chassis, and the pass side is then allowed a bit of movement, with the engine not rising on that pass side, which stops issues/problems form a solid chassis to solid engine mounting. Just enough play, and solid control for the torque side of the enigne and chassis, to not make trouble.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 18, 02:16 AM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

this also works
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 18, 10:40 AM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

I was going to mention the device as shown in the picture above, they have caused trouble that way for decades, and I didn't think there would be anyone careless enough to do that setup, they just don't work well.

Sorry, folks, if you are contemplating doing a Heim jointed solid rod as shown, contemplate going the rest of the distance and install far, far better, use one solid engine mount on the driver side.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 18, 10:43 AM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave ray View Post
I was going to mention the device as shown in the picture above, they have caused trouble that way for decades, and I didn't think there would be anyone careless enough to do that setup, they just don't work well.

Sorry, folks, if you are contemplating doing a Heim jointed solid rod as shown, contemplate going the rest of the distance and install far, far better, use one solid engine mount on the driver side.
sorry rufas/Mr. perfect, that is not a heim joint
it worked for the first owner as he drag raced the car many many times
it worked for the second owner while he raced it.
it has worked for me since 2011 with my 515 torque sb launching at 6200
what is not to work?
the motor mount is rubber and it still absorbs engine vibration
the turn buckle is there should the engine mount break
no different than the piece of cable used as a safety device that went around the bar in the A frame

Last edited by flat tire; Sep 25th, 18 at 11:14 AM.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 18, 12:28 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave ray View Post
Just to add, new safety type motor mount design, which is most mounts sold today, have a design that runs a strap on the mount, so if the rubber gets unbonded, the mount doesn't get loose, it captures, and holds things together.

One of the biggest problems with the non-capture mounts was/is when they come apart, especially on the driver side, they will let the engine rise in the chassis, locking the throttle linkage at whatever carb opening it was at when the engine raised up off the mount. The only save is to turn the key off, engine sits back down in the chassis, but, most cars had ignition switches that run an interlock, and when the key is turned off, the steering becomes locked. This is why the safety mounts were devised.

Just FYI.
Mine did exactly that on my firest test drive after putting on a new intake and 4bbl carb. Suddenly I had a lot more torque, broke the mount, and away I went at full throttle. nearly wrecked the car!

I was able to get mine out by breaking each bolt loose enough to wiggle the mount over enough to get a ratchet wrench in there. Just be sure to be careful with the nuts in the subframe. When they fall they're gone for good... After losing one into the abyss I used a rare earth magnet on the socket to keep them in there when the nut was removed. Use a deep socket too or you might lose it as well when you pull it out of the hole on the bottom side.

Once you get one side off you'll have a lot more clearance to do the other (meaning side of the same mount). From there you can use a socket.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 18, 12:53 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

What? Those are simple round, unhardened hardware store ring ends, and NOT stronger Heim joints?

"it has worked for me since 2011 with my 515 torque sb launching at 6200" Scares the living daylights out of me, not even close to being anywhere safe. Think of the fatigue of those soft metal hardware store ring ends under all that radical small-block launch stress.

It is even worse than first thought, as this is something that is far worse than doing it right. That is the same as simply drilling two holes in a solid bar of metal and bolting that bar to the frame and engine, NO movement, NO small bit of slack to allow the engine mount to work correctly without breaking it, UNLESS the ring ends are not held tight on the frame and engine, with the inner diameters of the rings larger than the bolts that hold them on. What a serious, dangerous problem. If that is the way it is done here, then, the safer method would then be the two holes in the solid bar.

How many of us have seen these soft rings elongate, open the ring up even larger from tension pulling the ring open, breaking a welded ring open, especially when they have a clearance between them and the retainer bolt?

The question prevails, why not do it the right way, the first time, just install a steel engine mount on the driver side, and not Rube Goldberg it up with a back yard disaster in the making.

Makes me wonder how much of the rest of the vehicle(s) mentioned are/were also engineered completely unsafely, and why the sanctioning bodies allowed/allows those dangerous vehicle(s) to race?

I will continue to choose to err on the side of safety, NOT on the side of very dubious weak parts, give me a solid engine mount, AND the cable, not this disaster.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 18, 01:34 PM
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Re: Motor mount replacement

Part No.

Turnbuckle

Body Length (in.) L

Nut End B

Length of One Stub (in.) S

Rated Capacity (lbs.)

Unit Weight (lbs.)


Thread Dia. A


Take Up T

5:1

3:1 (AISC)


TB01 3/8 x 6 7 1/8 9/16 8 1200 2000 0.78
it is legal at NHRA events and they are all about safety
rufus, do your homework
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