Points ignition for 1967 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 18, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Location: Lake Mary, Florida
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Points ignition for 1967

In a previous post, I mentioned I was removing the HEI distributor and installing a period correct OEM points distributor and coil.

Got it all installed, and prior to firing the engine, I used my volt/ohm meter to check everything up wiring wise at the coil. Here is what I found:

1) Ignition key off. No voltage at "+" of coil. This would be correct. No voltage at "-" of coil. This too assumed correct, as this is the ground to coil to make it charge/discharge.

2) Ignition key on (not cranking engine). 9 volts at "+" terminal at coil. This assumed to be correct, as it is getting voltage from the resistance wire from ignition switch. I see a ground at the "-" of coil terminal when meter is on ohms.

3) While cranking. voltage to the "+" terminal of coil jumps to 11.6 volts. Assumed normal, as the second wire at the "+" terminal of coil comes from the starter (post "S" I think), as coil gets 12 volts while cranking to aid it quick start (hotter spark). I see a ground at the "-" of coil terminal when meter is on ohms.

Here's what I'm questioning. On the "-" of the coil terminal, I see Open, then close (using Ohm setting of volt/ohm meter) when I open and close the points, and with both leads disconnected at the "+" side of the coil terminal. This is assumed normal in order to cause the coil to charge up and discharge (provides a ground, and open to the coil). However, when I connect the two leads to the "+" terminal of the coil, the "-" lead of the coil shows ground always, no matter if I open/close the points. So it seems I'm loosing that pulse from the points when they are opening and closing with the leads connected at the "+" coil terminal.

Is this normal? Perhaps the pulse is still there, and I'm overthinking this? I have not started the car yet (always had the center wire removed from the distributor during these tests. I do not have enough hands to crank the starter and hold the end of the coil wire to ground to see if I have a fat spark. Just asking if I should see the "open/close" indication at the "-" of the coil terminal (using the ohm meter setting) with the "+" terminal coil wires installed.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 18, 04:42 AM
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Don
 
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Re: Points ignition for 1967

The coil has very low resistance. You are way overthinking this and on the wrong track imho. The AC impedance of a coil is much different than the DC resistance and is directly proportional to the frequency of the signal applied to it. Ignition circuits are AC, not DC...

Itís fine to use a DC ohmmeter for continuity checks but thatís where it ends.

Don

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 18, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Points ignition for 1967

Thanks. I guess I'm being over cautious. I recently worked on an Old Wheel Horse tractor with a magneto spark. After 6 hours of troubleshooting no spark, I found I had dirty point contacts; they never showed a direct continuity when closed.

On another note, what points and condenser are you guys using for the distributor? Right now there's a combined point/condenser setup. I don't like it because there is no way to gap the point initially, as the condenser blocks the point contacts. I have a dwell meter, but don't want to have to crank the engine with the starter in order to adjust the dwell. An initial gap will get it close enough to start.

I want to use a separate point and condenser, but all I can find is an Accel 8101 ACC kit. Is this one good enough?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 18, 06:26 AM
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Don
 
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Re: Points ignition for 1967

Check your points with an ohmmeter across the points. No need for anything more complex than that imho....

Don

1969 Camaro LSA 6L90E AME subframe and IRS
1969 Camaro vert LS3 4L65E Ridetech level 2 - sold
1959 El Camino project
1969 Mustang Sportsroof project
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 18, 06:45 AM
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Jon
 
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Re: Points ignition for 1967

ANY name brand, Standard, Neihoff, Delco, whatever brand you can find will likely work fine. You're making this a lot harder than it has to be. Spark happen when the points open. As long as they close and open, all you need to do is adjust the gap setting or the dwell.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 18, 09:16 AM
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Re: Points ignition for 1967

OP

nothing wrong with being "period correct" on distributor....but a alternative is using a stock cap/rotor and install a Pertronix kit vs points/condenser. IMHO a more stable ignition vs points
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 18, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Points ignition for 1967

Quote:
Originally Posted by dyno jonn View Post
ANY name brand, Standard, Neihoff, Delco, whatever brand you can find will likely work fine. You're making this a lot harder than it has to be. Spark happen when the points open. As long as they close and open, all you need to do is adjust the gap setting or the dwell.
Not overthinking. The current arrangement that is in the distributor when I bought it has a "combination points and condenser" arrangement. The capacitor covers the points. There is pitting on the points. There is no way to set a gap on this point/condenser setup using a feeler gauge, other than spinning the starter and use the window in the cap to set the dwell. Seems like a stupid arrangement for this combo set. I'd rather buy a separated point and condenser, thus allowing for an initial gap setting, then fine tuning with a dwell meter once running.

I will check with my local NAPA store.

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