Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 18, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

I removed a standard GM Delco starter and replacing it with a Proform High Torque starter. Here are the instructions. https://www.proformparts.com/images/...structions.pdf

How does this relate to the 3 wires I have to connect? I have the heavy black wire from the battery then smaller yellow and black wires.

Please make it easy for a dummy.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 18, 03:16 PM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

1. Connect the heavy black wire to the upper terminal
2. Connect the smaller black wire to the spade terminal
3. Connect the yellow wire to the lower terminal. On some starters there is a terminal labeled "R" that the yellow wire would connect to. This terminal is hot only when the starter is running which is the same as what the lower terminal does.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 18, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

I'm sorry that photo turned 90 degrees when I posted so please tilt your head to the left. It was vertical on my phone.

I contacted Proform who said the + battery cable to the upper connector. The yellow wire to the spade terminal and the black wire is not used. There are only two possible connections on this starter unless the two larger connectors are actually used.

Their instructions are contrary to Blitzer's instructions. If I had known this might be a problem I might not have selected this starter. I have not yet installed the headers and presently have plenty of room to work.

Skunk Works
302DZ, M22W Muncie, GV overdrive,12-Bolt Rear 3.73
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Last edited by Andrew69; Dec 18th, 18 at 04:14 AM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 18, 07:18 PM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

do you have HEI or points? Lol ask me how I know
https://www.camaros.net/forums/19-el...dify-stuf.html

1967 RS/SS Coupe, Factory A/C, 2nd owner, original paint -Taho Turquoise 3 Spd on the floor, bench seat, fold down rear seat

1967 RS Convertible Factory A/C, PS, PB PG 327
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 12:07 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

The yellow wire is normally the one that goes to the coil so I don't know why ProForm would tell you to connect that to the starter tab.

I didn't think about the need for a diode, but it makes sense to have one as the engine won't continue to run after you stop cranking the car since the starter motor would ground out the coil. Adding the diode will prevent this from happening. So I'll modify number 3.

3. Connect the yellow wire to the lower terminal via a diode with the anode connected to the starter and the cathode to the coil. On some starters there is a terminal labeled "R" that the yellow wire would connect to. This terminal is hot only when the starter is running which is the same as what the lower terminal does.


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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 05:55 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

Andrew, I think you'll find this video helpful. It's quite clear on the connections required.

Al

my 67' build thread:
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 07:49 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter




For a remote relay:

(1) To ignition switch.

(2) 10 jumper wire.

(3) Battery cable. Note: There is no jumper bridge to the 2 terminal.

(4) 10 wire to battery.



If you're running a Pertronix type set up for your dizzy:



Verify your own set up because things can change over the years, but mine was as follows:

From ignition switch oem power to coil is fabric wound.
From ignition switch oem to "S" terminal is Purple.
"R" terminal to + coil is yellow.


My starter stock set up without an external relay:




'69 SS396 X66 L34 08D M21 BS
460ci Gen VI 9.75:1
241/249 @ .050" .625/.625 110 LSA

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Last edited by HawkX66; Dec 18th, 18 at 08:00 AM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 03:26 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

If you have a points type ignition, then the yellow wire from the "R" post of the starter (if marked as "R") is needed to the "+" side of the coil to provide a straight 12 volts while the starter is cranking the engine over. Once the starter is disabled, this 12 volts from the yellow wire is disabled, and voltage to the coil comes from a resistance wire (fabric wound) from the ignition switch. This fabric wound wire from ignition switch is a "resistance wire" designed to lower the voltage to the coil to help in keeping the points from pitting. this voltage is around 8 to 9 volts during engine run. When a cold engine is being started, a full 12 volts from the yellow starter lead during cranking (starter) provides a slightly hotter spark. Some folks will run a wire from a battery to the coil; this works, but it can cause the points to pit, and require more frequent changing.

So, if you have an HEI distributor (or some other non points ignition system), the yellow wire is not required. Some starters that are bought today don't come with the "R" lead, as they are replacement starters for HEI equipped ignition engines.

I'd follow the directions of the manufacturer/tech line recommendations as to how to hook up the wiring.

Never argue with an idiot; they'll only drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

Last edited by bucko; Dec 19th, 18 at 03:37 AM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 03:36 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by bucko View Post
If you have a points ignition (non HEI), then the yellow wire from the "R" post of the starter (if marked as "R") is needed to the "+" side of the coil to provide a straight 12 volts while the starter is cranking the engine over. Once the starter is disabled, voltage to the coil comes from a resistance wire (fabric wound) from the ignition switch. This fabric wound wire from ignition switch isa resitance wire designed to lower the voltage to the coil to help in keeping the points from pitting. this voltahe is around 8 to 9 volts during engine running, and a full 12 volts from the yellow starter lead during cranking (starter) for a slightly hotter spark to start a cold engine.

So, if you have an HEI distributor (or some other non points ignition system), the yellow wire is not required. Some starters that are bought today don't come with the "R" lead, as they are replacement starters for HEI equipped ignition engines.




Where were you 2 months ago? Lol I found this out the hard way, now my dizzie is being upgraded to an HEI and I need to order a new firewall harness because I never knew the above info prior to purchasing my starter

1967 RS/SS Coupe, Factory A/C, 2nd owner, original paint -Taho Turquoise 3 Spd on the floor, bench seat, fold down rear seat

1967 RS Convertible Factory A/C, PS, PB PG 327
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 03:46 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Niblet View Post
[/COLOR]

Where were you 2 months ago? Lol I found this out the hard way, now my dizzie is being upgraded to an HEI and I need to order a new firewall harness because I never knew the above info prior to purchasing my starter
Bummer! I decided a few weeks back that I wanted to convert my HEI equipped 67 327 back to a points style ignition, just to make it all look "period correct". I few folks here wondered why I would do so, but I wanted the engine to look correct. The HEI worked fine, and did not create any issues with clearance against the fire wall.

When you go with an HEI dizzy, be sure to understand that the #1 firing position will be slightly different then the points dizzy. When the engine is at top dead center (TDC) for cylinder #1, you will notice that the rotor for a points dizzy points more towards the direct front of the engine, and not towards the number 1 cylinder. When you drop in the HEI distributor, the rotor WILL point towards the number 1 cylinder.

In reality, it does not matter where the rotor points. Using the rotor as a starting point as to what post on the cap it is pointing to with cylinder number one at its TDC, plug in the spark plug wires starting with cylinder number 1 , and continue with the firing order.

Much easier on you and anyone else though to get the rotor pointing at number 1, or as close as possible without interference of the dizzy's vacuum advance canister and the intake runner. This is the reason why the HEI and points distributor had different rotor positions when installed using cylinder number one at TDC as a guide. The HEI dizzy is fatter, and therefore, its vacuum advance canister can hit the number 8 intake runner when rotating the distributor (to change timing). So the HEI distributor is inserted more to the right when indexing its rotor to cylinder #1 verses the smaller points distributor.

Never argue with an idiot; they'll only drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

Last edited by bucko; Dec 19th, 18 at 03:57 AM.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 07:00 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

I went with Dave Ray. I dont think his mod makes the dizzie any larger than stock

1967 RS/SS Coupe, Factory A/C, 2nd owner, original paint -Taho Turquoise 3 Spd on the floor, bench seat, fold down rear seat

1967 RS Convertible Factory A/C, PS, PB PG 327
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

This car has a points type distributor with an electronic conversion. Probably a Pertronics. And there is no yellow wire connected to the coil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by allanjs View Post
Andrew, I think you'll find this video helpful. It's quite clear on the connections required.
GM Starter Connections - YouTube
Now this video is very helpful. But it explains I need to purchase a $24 wire with diode to make it work. It kind of bugs me they change the connection design with vague instruction for connection.

On my car I installed the DB Electrical starter and it connected with the three wires. It has functioned flawlessly for maybe 10 years. If it still connects "correctly" I may just order one for this car.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0031-l.html

This one does connect with the three wires and I've now ordered one.

Skunk Works
302DZ, M22W Muncie, GV overdrive,12-Bolt Rear 3.73
Some photos:
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Last edited by Andrew69; Dec 19th, 18 at 08:40 AM.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 09:46 AM
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

Andrew, If there is no yellow wire connected to the coil + terminal then I would
say the electronic conversion currently on the car does not require the 12 volts
for starting. If you trace the yellow wire from the starter I would guess you'll find
it is wrapped up or cut off somewhere near the coil and is not used. So you wouldn't
need to connect it at the starter for any reason. Whoever installed the point conversion
probably just didn't bother to remove the wire at the starter.

Al

my 67' build thread:
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Wiring ProForm 66256 Starter

Iíll check that out Al. Thanks for the pointer.

Skunk Works
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Some photos:
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