Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

Hi All,

I had a local mechanic friend do some work on the Z a while back and it has had a small leak ever since near the rear of the pan. I am hoping it is not the ream main... I asked him and his response was "hey man these are old cars, they leak sometimes, a new pan would probably fix it"

I hate that response, and I do not accept it so I am going to put it on the lift and do it myself. I don't like swapping parts unless I know they are bad.

Question.

Would a pan being warped cause a leak? It looks straight but I suppose there could be a slight warp. I assumed once the bolts were tightened it would seal to the gasket.

How can I tell if it's the pan or the rear main? I clean it up drive it and put it on the lift but it's hard to tell where it came from?

I need to change the oil anyway, should I just try a new pan and gasket?

Lastly, it's an original Z28, no idea if it's the original pan and I don't really care, if I were to replace the pan do I need a specific pan or with any older small block pan work?

Thanks

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 02:56 PM
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Most. Car small block pans with a driver side dipstick will fit. I suggest trying a one piece oil pan gasket. Felpro perma dry. Works great. When you have the pan off check to see if it's flat where the bolts go through. If they are raised, a simple tap with a hammer should fix it. Hard sometimes to differentiate between pan and rear seal sometimes. He'll if the pan is off, replace them both. Not that much more work.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 03:05 PM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

have you tried to retighten the bolts?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 03:06 PM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

Agree, with pan off, remove rear bearing cap and replace seal.
Offset the seam by about 10-15 degrees and smear onto cap, gasket sealer like a drop or two,, then install cap and pump, then pan.
A small bead of black RTV helps.
I've always had good luck using Mopar RTV for gaskets. Yes, I know its a Mopar product, but it works great.
Also, clean ALL gasket surfaces with Brakleen or lacquer thinner for a clean surface for adhesion of RTV.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 03:37 PM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

You certainly want to confirm the source of the leak before you start pulling parts. If you can not confirm by first wiping the area clean, drive, then look..... than get a oil dye kit. It will come with a black light and glasses. The oil leak will be neon green and very visible using the light & goggles. Harbor Freight likely has a inexpensive kit

Your stock pan should be fine but may need some hammer work to re-flatten the rails. Your stock pan will fit better than any after market one

I have always used the Felpro rubber pan gaskets but do use RTV (Permatex Black Ultra) on the corners where the from the round to flat parts front & back of pan.

If it is the RMS and still a 2 piece....those can be tricky to get to seal well.

Oil leaks migrate down to the lowest point often looking like RMS or pan so check well before surgery....it could be intake, VC, oil pressure sensor so confirm source first
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 05:18 PM
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302 will have a 2 piece rear seal. Ev is right on the RTV on the ends of the rear seal before putting the rear cap back on. Not trying to one up Ev , but GMS is great sealer too. Its GM 's version. Checking the rear of the intake, valve covers, and oil sending unit/gauge is a good idea as suggested in the previous post. Will most likely have to unholy the engine mounts and jack it up a bit to get the pan off.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 05:33 PM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

Quote:
Originally Posted by X-77 keith View Post
302 will have a 2 piece rear seal. Ev is right on the RTV on the ends of the rear seal before putting the rear cap back on. Not trying to one up Ev , but GMS is great sealer too. Its GM 's version. Checking the rear of the intake, valve covers, and oil sending unit/gauge is a good idea as suggested in the previous post. Will most likely have to unholy the engine mounts and jack it up a bit to get the pan off.
And turn the crank so it slides past the journals. I did a big block in the car no problem. Right Stuff is readily available and works great.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 06:00 PM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

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And turn the crank so it slides past the journals. I did a big block in the car no problem. Right Stuff is readily available and works great.

Did this in 2001. I can't remember which counter weight is in the way though. I'm thinking it was mid way close to #5 piston.


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 03:50 AM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

Yes, jack up engine first and put a 2X4, 4 inch side, between the mounts - watch distributor against firewall and fan on shroud.
Turn HB with timing mark at 5-6 o:clock position, remove starter, pan falls right out.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 03:54 AM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

One way I have checked to see if a rear main seal is leaking was to remove the lower bell housing shield (automatic transmission) to see if there was oil on its bottom, as a rear main seal will drip oil and weep out onto this cover (cover is there so you could remove the torque converter bolts from the flexplate during a transmission removal). If the inside of this plate is wet with oil, the rear main seal is the culprit.

If you have a manual transmission, a rear seal (depending on the severity of its leak) will usually contaminate the clutch over time, and you will experience slippage when engaging the clutch. If the clutch is fine, then either the main seal is not the source of your leak, or it is in its "small stage" of leaking.

While I'm not always a trusting fan of "miracle" fixes, I have talked to some car owners at local shows with older cars who had rear main seal leaking issues, and they swear by Bars rear main seal fix. They stated the stuff is added to the oil, and it softens the sealing properties of the seals rubber, and the seal stopped leaking.

As stated by SolCal85, if you remove the pan to replace its gasket, be sure to place the "lip" edge of the oil pan on a 2x4, and gently tap the beveled edges of the metal at each bolt hole to flatten them. A ball peen hammer works best for this.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 05:56 AM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

Ok. Lets back up a second. You had a friend/mechanic work on the car.

What work did he do on the car? Was it leaking before he worked on it? If not did the leak start immediately after he worked on it?

What Im getting at is did he do something that caused the leak? Did he work on the oil pan?

I had one once I swore was oil pan or RMS. Turned out to be drivers side valve cover. I used the dye and black light leak detection method to find it.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 06:54 AM
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Re: Oil Leak, new Pan or Gasket for DZ302

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Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
I had one once I swore was oil pan or RMS. Turned out to be drivers side valve cover. I used the dye and black light leak detection method to find it.
^^^, which is why I, and other, have recommended confirming the source of the leak. Certainly new repairs by yourself or a mechanic are high on list of possibilities.

I recently swapped from a 2 brl to 4 brl cab. Have done intakes on several motors without leaks. Prior to swap motor did not leak. It did after. I assumed it was me FU the intake install. It took a few under the car looks to determine the leak was from PS valve cover. The oil migrated down motor and then all the way back to x member dripping on floor at various places along the way.

VC gasket WAY easier to replace than pan let alone RMS so glad I looked until I could clearly determine where the leak was coming from

Using oil dye is very helpful confirming oil leaks if you can't see source otherwise

BTW if you bring #6 cyl to TDC the crank journals are at their highest point making pan removal easier with motor in car

Pan prep (doing what is needed to flatten edges/bolt holes) and then cleaning mating surfaces completely with acetone. If using RTV let it cure overnight before running motor. If using "The Right Stuff" RTV the motor can be started after the repair from what others tell me but I have always used Permatex Black Ultra. It is designed for use sealing against oil vs other RTV's
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