Solid motor Mount Question - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Solid motor Mount Question

i have ripped 3 OE style rubber motor mounts on the driver side and I'm not going through the replacement again. i plan to use a sold motor mount on the driver side only. my questions are,



will the after market (moroso....etc..) solid mounts bolt up to the factory frame stands or do i need to replace that as well?



anybody have any experience using solid mount on driver side only?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 10:12 AM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Install the clam shell motor mount (1973 and up). The rubber is placed in compression instead of tension so it will never tear in half.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Dave, do you have pictures of the two different style mounts you can post?
I'm thinking i had the clam shell mount to begin with. the block is a '74 400 block and I've had it for 25 years in and out of several different cars. the first torn mount may very well have been the one that was on the block when i pulled it out of an impala wagon. then the two that I've replaced since have been mounts i had laying around and have no idea where they originally came from.

basically, i'm not sure how the two styles vary in appearance

thanks
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Also, do the clam shell mounts require different frame stands?
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 03:19 PM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Here is the out side that bolts to the block. Note it has no other pieces attched to it, it is just a solid steel mount.

https://www.summitracing.com/ga/part...RoCgK0QAvD_BwE

The clam shell attaches to a vibration damper either rubber or polyurethane (the plastic doesn't come with a steel shell you have to buy a rubber one take it apart and weld the plastic replacement where the rubber one was).

They look like this:

https://www.summitracing.com/ga/part...iew/?rrec=true

(There are four views). They are designed for use with a SBC (which was used in all GM cars after 1973 until the LS-x was introduced). So if you have a BBC in a First Gen Camaro or Nova then you will have to shim it up with steel plate cut to fit the area and with holes drills to match the frame to raise the drivers side and to push it over (wedge shaped with thicker plate under one side).

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 03:42 PM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Ben, I use the solid mounts and they bolted directly up to my frame stands on my BBC.

Thanks,

Jeff


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 06:48 PM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

I have melted 2 polyurethane mounts on the drivers side with the stock manifolds, I now built an alluminum shield for the 3rd one. I was thinking of doing the same thing, except everybody says it will vibrate your teeth out.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

I'm not overly concerned with the added vibration. i'm thinking just doing the one side should help a little. not a daily driver and i've learned to appreciate the little idiosyncrasies that come with driving these cars.

really just trying to determine if i'd need to change the frame stand or just the motor mount portion that bolts to the block on a SBC
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 06:05 AM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Moroso sells three different solid motor mounts. Two are OEM replacements the other raises the motor to clear the cross member in a motor swap into a car body not designed to have a V8.

All Chevy motor mounts install the motor in the stock location, the difference reflecting the 1968 motor mount safety recall to fix the breaking motor mount problem (the reason why there are two different parts). That problem was finally fixed with a new redesign of the motor mount introduced in 1973. If you have a small block the clam shell style replace the OEM motor mount and stand with out changing the location of the motor.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 06:12 AM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

You can use, and should use, a solid on both sides as when Camaro decelerates, now the pass mount is being pulled.
For every action, there is a reaction - Newton's third law.
I used a all steel turnbuckle, 3/8 inch size and replaced the right-hand threaded loop with a hook, and bolted it to the outmost bolt hole on cyl head, just behind the exhaust manifold, and hooked it to the upper control arm shaft and tighten the buckle being snug.
Also I added a locking nut on the hook side for locking the buckle length. It has never failed.

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 06:34 AM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
You can use, and should use, a solid on both sides as when Camaro decelerates, now the pass mount is being pulled.
For every action, there is a reaction - Newton's third law.
I used a all steel turnbuckle, 3/8 inch size and replaced the right-hand threaded loop with a hook, and bolted it to the outmost bolt hole on cyl head, just behind the exhaust manifold, and hooked it to the upper control arm shaft and tighten the buckle being snug.
Also I added a locking nut on the hook side for locking the buckle length. It has never failed.
I agree with Everett that if you are going to use a solid mount it has to be all solid (both sides and the tranny mount) otherwise you will break the case on the transmission. Moroso sells these mounts to be used with a solid front and rear plate to prevent movement fore and aft in the chassis. It was sportsman racers who started using them on the their cars without the plates. And it was sportsmen racers who discovered that not using all solid mounts breaks aluminum parts.

Chains and turn-buckles are not recommended for aluminum heads because aluminum work hardens under stress.The factory offered a five ton sling that attached to the upper control arm cross-shaft and bolted to the factory cast iron exhaust manifolds. That will not work with flimsy tubular headers.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

alright, sounds like i have a path forward. solid mounts all around. was hoping to avoid that really.

my only opposition to the clam shell mounts is that i didn't want to change out the frame stands

I'm one of those guys behind the times....still running steel heads...sportsman II's, but i don't want to go the turnbuckle / chain/ strap route as this is still and always will be a street car.

i had a motor chained down in a '70 Chevelle back in the 90's (same block actually) and never broke a rubber motor mount even when making enough torque to pull low 1.40's 60' times on two wheels. those days are over and I'm not a fan of the look.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 11:49 AM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

I wouldn't use a solid tranny mount. Taking too much chance on breaking bellhousing or tailshaft housing.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 12:50 PM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

Maybe just NEW rubber or poly mounts instead of some old ones that were just laying around for who knows how long or condition?

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 19, 04:08 PM
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Re: Solid motor Mount Question

My mounts consist of a steel plate that bolts to the block and the steel that bolts to the motor stand with rubber in between. The steel portions are interlocked so that even if the rubber un-bonds or breaks the steel sections cannot separate. Serves same purpose of a tie down or turnbuckle. Don't know brand but have not needed new ones since about 1985.

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