Help with new startup-Will not stay running - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Help with new startup-Will not stay running

I finally got to a point yesterday combined with my first Saturday off this year to try to start my car. At first I got backfire through the carb. I could have sworn I stabbed the dizzy correctly, but checked it and it looked to be 180 off. Re-stabbed it and solved the backfire and it fired. But it would not run. It was acting like the carb was off. I checked the air/fuel screws and the fronts were 1 turn out, but the secondaries were at 1/2 turn. I set them both at 1-1/2. This is a brand new Holley 750. I did add the screw mod where you can turn the secondary butterflies while carb is on car. I set both to where the slot is square.
Then while I was moving the wires around, I thought I heard a short. It was prolly just a connector end tapping against the back of the valve cover, but in the process the small wire on the starter fell off, so then it would not stay running when I let go of the key. I have a mini hi-torque starter and the small connector is a male spade. I have always disliked this configuration because the female side of this spade does not grip the male end securely. I have squeezed the connector for more resistance, but it has never been secure. I wish I could figure out a way so this connector was more secure.

PS: I purchased some ceramic boot Taylor wires that are black, so the next pics you all see will have black wires! I got tired of the blue ones, haha.






1969 SS 396 X66 - RS Conversion - TKO600 - 3.73 Posi - Paint Code 71-LeMans Blue

Last edited by Brettallen59; Apr 7th, 19 at 03:17 AM. Reason: typo
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 03:37 AM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

Timing is off

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

Okay. Turning the distributor in the clock-wise direction advances it? I was trying this by myself, so I couldn't turn it while trying to start it. I tried turning it a little each time clock-wise until it backfired out of the carb, so I went back counter clock-wise a small amount. I though, never heard the starter drag for too much advance. That was a little confusing. That made me think I was still too retarded because I never got to hear starter drag. I have to help my brother-in-law replace some rear axle bearings first today so I will get him to come over and help me afterwards.

Thanks John!

Brett.....

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 06:16 AM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

CCW is advancing initial timing.
Set engine with #1 cylinder at TDC and rotate crankshaft to expected initial timing.
Remove dist cap ensuring rotor pointing to #1 cylinder.
Using ohmmeter, ign off, one lead to coil - terminal and other lead to ground, rotate dist CCW,
then turn slowly CW and when continuity stops, point set opens, now engine in time.
Start engine, use timing light to check and make adjustments accordingly.
Good luck. If meter used has a beeper for telling continuity, use beeper function and when beeper goes silent, point set open, coil fires plugs.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

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Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
CCW is advancing initial timing.
Set engine with #1 cylinder at TDC and rotate crankshaft to expected initial timing.
Remove dist cap ensuring rotor pointing to #1 cylinder.
Using ohmmeter, ign off, one lead to coil - terminal and other lead to ground, rotate dist CCW,
then turn slowly CW and when continuity stops, point set opens, now engine in time.
Start engine, use timing light to check and make adjustments accordingly.
Good luck. If meter used has a beeper for telling continuity, use beeper function and when beeper goes silent, point set open, coil fires plugs.
CCW! Thats my problem. I kept pushing it to more retarded.

Thanks guys!

Brett......

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 06:32 AM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

When first starting and keeping it running with throttle pedal. In doing this the idle screws really donít come into play.

Once you have it running then the idle tuning can progress.

Youíre initial settings are good for 1st start.

Another thing to check cuz ya never know is to verify plug wires are in correct firing order
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

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Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
When first starting and keeping it running with throttle pedal. In doing this the idle screws really donít come into play.

Once you have it running then the idle tuning can progress.

Youíre initial settings are good for 1st start.

Another thing to check cuz ya never know is to verify plug wires are in correct firing order
John,
That in fact was one of the first things I did; check the plug wires, lol. Yes, all I needed to do was turn the distributor the correct direction and it worked (after I put the small starter wire back on. I just now need to fix the valve covers from leaking oil out the back..... I think it sounds pretty darn good and I still need to tune it. Thank you again!

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Last edited by Brettallen59; Apr 7th, 19 at 12:45 PM. Reason: typo
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 01:23 PM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

Sounds great.

I like the blue felpro VC gaskets

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 19, 01:42 PM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

I have always used FelPro gaskets on just about everything. Just put these rubber/steel ones on which stopped my VC leak on my 67 with stock VC

https://www.autozone.com/gaskets/val...253_35483_6534

I have the blue ones on my 383 center bolt motor

If metal VC...tap with hammer flat the edges


on the carb tuning, do it with engine fully warmed up. My timing light has RPM function also and I hook up a vacuum gauge when tuning the carb. I prefer total centrifugal timing vs vacuum advance
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 19, 06:39 AM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

you may need the thicker vc gasket , they have several to choose from
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 19, 08:02 AM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettallen59 View Post
I was trying this by myself, so I couldn't turn it while trying to start it.

Thanks John!

Brett.....
I see you got your car running, but for the future pick up one of these remote starter buttons. I work on my car alone a lot. These are great to have in your toolbox.

Rick

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 19, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

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Originally Posted by Sam 15 View Post
I see you got your car running, but for the future pick up one of these remote starter buttons. I work on my car alone a lot. These are great to have in your toolbox.

Rick

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...hoCRC4QAvD_BwE
Crap! I forgot all about that thing! I have one that I could have used. Well, my brother in law likes to come over and help, so it's not so bad. Thanks for the reminder.

Brett......

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 19, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

***UPDATE***

I was able to get my engine running yesterday and actually drove it around the block! My new Tremec shifted gears fine, my newly installed 12 bolt posi rolled the wheels fine and the engine still needs some carb tuning. Both banks of the AFR were working and all of the air/fuel idle screws were effective, yeah! (before they weren't) With my new cam I had better vacuum so I actually adjusted the air/fuel idle screws based on vacuum. I couldn't get the idle to come down, so I turned the screw on the secondary butterfly adjusting screw adapter that I installed and the idle came down! I still need to work the carb by monitoring the AFR. I have read that 14 is a target number? Do not know if this is at idle, WOT or what. I did notice that sometimes when giving it gas it would jump around pretty good. Like up to 60?

So what I have thats new with this setup:
New Holley 750 DP 4150 HP 4.5hg PV
New thinner head gaskets to improve quench: SCE Spartan M13373 .028"
New less aggressive Comp Cams roller hyd. cam spec:
New Innovate LM-2 dual bank AFR
New American Thunder 2.5" exhaust
New Tremec TKO600 Kit from SST - TRG-F1600-64 with new clutch/PP/TB - CLA-STR11
Used 12 bolt posi with 3.73 gears - BU Code
New Moser axles - A123002, Timken (KOYO) bearings
McLeod Aluminum Flywheel - 560130
Cloyes Hex-A-Just Timing Set 9-3110A
Hotchkis Multi-Leaf 1.500 drop Leaf Springs - 2407C
Taylor Ceramic boot Spiro-Pro 8mm plug wires - 75032
CVF Serpentine Belt system - Does not work with AC compressor too high. Waiting on new design bracket. In the interim I was able to modify the Vintage Air Compressor brackets, but still needs a little adjustment.

I still have some playing around with it, but it does sound pretty darn good! Much better than the previous setup. I am pretty happy so far.

I STILL, STILL, STILL have NO BRAKES! I have bled 3 quarts of brake fluid through this system and still do not have but 10% pedal. 2 MC, 2 Dist. blocks, two sets of brake lines, Willwood prop valve underneath drivers seat, rear caliper Wilwood piston o-rings/rebuild. I finally solved the leak issues. My brother in law is going to come over soon and he said we ill work on it till it's fixed. It will be nice to get a second set of eyes on it. Maybe bleed them old school. The other thing that I thought of is the suggestion that you have to tilt the caliper so the air can get to the bleeders. Maybe that's it. Maybe there's air caught up in the corner of the calipers.

Once I get brakes, I will actually be able to go drive!

Brett......






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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 19, 03:09 PM
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Re: Help with new startup-Will not stay running

You're on the right track by opening secondaries allowing air to bypass so primary plates can be closed for mixture screw adjustment.
The 60, I would think, would be when throttle is opened and fuel dumped from the squirters.
Hitting calipers with a rubber hammer for moving trapped air to bleeder(s). Some remove caliper and hold in hand and twist caliper during bleeding. use a hand vacuum pump for this process.
You might make a 1/4 inch Plexiglas plate, put a hose fitting onto it, seal with a rubber gasket/sheet and watch air bubbles come out with a hand vacuum attached.
14.7:1 ratio is ideal, but wioth an aggressive cam, not so much. Idle may be 13.5, and WOT maybe 11.
Run a vacuum gauge into interior for viewing vacuum. Cruise should bring you to above 15 inches Coasting above 18, WOT zero - no restriction as atmospheric pressure is equal, and idle anything around 12-13 would be good.
Remember, vacuum is only created when valves are closed.

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