I have a DZ302 with 5000 miles on the rebuild now, it's all stock with the exception of a Pertronix ignitor. The motor was running beautifully but it seemed like the valvetrain was staring to get a little noisier, so I decided to adjust the valves.
I originally adjusted the valves after the rebuild using the method posted in the CRG group where you set the lash cold at 26 thousandths while rotating the engine at 90 degree intervals, rotating the engine around twice. I repeated that method this time and it seemed the lash seemed to have gone up about 3-4 thousandths, so I redid them at 26 thousandths. The engine then sounded smoother but didn't seem to pull as well and would stall out when idling for a little bit. I rechecked timing at 34 degrees total , idle mixture screws, and idle setting but they were all fine and it would still stall out.
I then readjusted the valves back to 30 thousandths and the noise came back and the car pulled good again, but would still stall out. When the car stalled out the last time the other night, I accidently left the ignition on overnight and drained the battery. I charged it up but then had no spark because I fried the Ignitor, so I replaced it and the coil and then it started up and ran good but would then stall out at idle after the engine warmed up. Then the engine wouldn't start because I had no spark, even though I had 12 V to the ignitor and the coil measured good.
So today I took out the Pertonix ignitor and coil, hooked the resistance wire back up to the coil and installed points and a stock coil. The engine started right up again, so I set the dwell at 30 and the timing at 34 total and it ran fine until it warmed up and then it stalled right out. I tried restarting it but it wont fire and backfired through the carb.
I rechecked that there is 7.5V to the coil, the timing is tightened down, I get a squirt of fuel when I open the throttle, and I do have spark, but it won't start and will backfire through the carb. This seems to happen when the engine is warm now.
I don't know what to try next:| Any suggestions?
I originally adjusted the valves after the rebuild using the method posted in the CRG group where you set the lash cold at 26 thousandths while rotating the engine at 90 degree intervals, rotating the engine around twice. I repeated that method this time and it seemed the lash seemed to have gone up about 3-4 thousandths, so I redid them at 26 thousandths. The engine then sounded smoother but didn't seem to pull as well and would stall out when idling for a little bit. I rechecked timing at 34 degrees total , idle mixture screws, and idle setting but they were all fine and it would still stall out.
I then readjusted the valves back to 30 thousandths and the noise came back and the car pulled good again, but would still stall out. When the car stalled out the last time the other night, I accidently left the ignition on overnight and drained the battery. I charged it up but then had no spark because I fried the Ignitor, so I replaced it and the coil and then it started up and ran good but would then stall out at idle after the engine warmed up. Then the engine wouldn't start because I had no spark, even though I had 12 V to the ignitor and the coil measured good.
So today I took out the Pertonix ignitor and coil, hooked the resistance wire back up to the coil and installed points and a stock coil. The engine started right up again, so I set the dwell at 30 and the timing at 34 total and it ran fine until it warmed up and then it stalled right out. I tried restarting it but it wont fire and backfired through the carb.
I rechecked that there is 7.5V to the coil, the timing is tightened down, I get a squirt of fuel when I open the throttle, and I do have spark, but it won't start and will backfire through the carb. This seems to happen when the engine is warm now.
I don't know what to try next:| Any suggestions?