Engine Kills - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Engine Kills

Never ending battle. . . . been driving my 69 C-10 since restoring and it and has killed for no reason I can think of. 427, Speed deamon 750DP on an edelbrock, mild engine that was built 20 years ago, carb last year. Has about 10k miles. GM HEI Driving at 25 mph it suddenly killed, another day at the stop sign and the 3rd backing up in the driveway. It started all 3 times with a good bit of time, thought the battery would run out. It like it runs out of gas. See if your thoughts match mine!?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 06:23 AM
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Re: Engine Kills

My guess is electrical. I had an engine harness with the rubber coated fusible links, always had hard starting. The fusible link was just barely holding on providing 12v to the engine.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 07:13 AM
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Re: Engine Kills

check the bulkhead wiring connection at the firewall
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 11:51 AM
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Re: Engine Kills

I had a mechanical fuel pump going bad and do the same.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 01:01 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Camaro Guy View Post
GM HEI
ignition module and or coil are likely candidates
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 01:07 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal805 View Post
ignition module and or coil are likely candidates
Agreed... OP should also confirm that they have 12 volts going the the BAT terminal on the HEI cap (using the correct gauge voltage supply wire).
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Engine Kills

GM HEI. . . .doesn't the ignition module just go out and the car won't start or is it sporadic. Wiring harness looks fine. I will check the volts tomorrow. Thanks for all your input guys.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 20, 06:55 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

I've had issues with the ignition module a few times. Sometimes it will die without warning and then 20 minutes later it will start up and drive fine for a week, then do it again, won't start, wait a few hours seems as good as new. Both times for me, changing the module fixed the problem. Easy to do, not expensive. I had one GM module fail and one ACCEL fail, so seems to be typical of all modules.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 20, 12:05 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

"GM HEI. . . .doesn't the ignition module just go out and the car won't start or is it sporadic"

NOPE, that is NOT accurate, actually, the HEI module is one tough, reliable ignition processor. They do not "just fail for no reason", NOTHING just fails for no reason.

Two areas I would look at, first, the main reason HEI modules fail, THE COIL IN THE CAP going bad, but that usually causes module death as the coil is going bad. To properly test the coil, emove it from the distributor, run it on an off vehicle electrical tester, let it get hot, up to operating temperature, that is where they have the most failure issues. Second, another failure area, the magnetic pickup to module two wire conector. These connectors hold both pickup wires into the HEI module. There have been more than a few wire end terminals in those conectors that were not crimped correctly, cuting a significant amount of the wire strands for both wires. As the pickup moves as the vacuum advance moves it, there is a change that after some miles, the remaining wire strands have disconected, but still butt up against each other, until the pickup is moved by the vacuum advance, then come back together when the advance goes back to rest. To test, use a hand held vacuum pump on the vacuum advance feed hose, with the engine running at idle, operate the vacuum advance. If the engine stays running, look elsewhere, if it stops, then easily restarts when vacuum is removed from the hose, look at the pickup wires inside the two wire connector at the HEI module.

There are many other reasons, but, these two are the most problem prone.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 20, 12:52 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

OP

Certainly test and inspect your wiring and the VDC to your distributor to confirm it is 12vdc

...but what you describe, assuming the above notes are confirmed good, is coil and or ignition module.

If it were my car I would buy a new module & coil
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 20, 02:25 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

When it dies. You say it takes a while to start. Is it flooded? Maybe a bad needle and seat. Is is vapor lock? Bad fuel pump? Dirty fuel filter.

Is it heat related and starts when it cools down.

Could be ignition but could also be fuel issues.

If you cranking a while my guess is flooded but just a guess.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 20, 04:13 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

Vapor lock
Bad ground or positive wire/s
Fuel filter clogged
Collapsed fuel line

Would be my guesses and in that order....Happy hunting

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 20, 01:00 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

"If it were my car I would buy a new module & coil"

I will reiterate, BEFORE you waste any money on components,

If the engine runs, start it and add vacuum to the vacuum advance hose, if the engine stops, replace the magnetic pickup

Then, take the coil off the car, find an off vehicle electrical tester, run the coil, get it to full operating temperature, and see if the coil is going bad FIRST. If so, do the coil.

Test the module separately, on the electrical tester

Replace whatever has problems.

Battery ground cable to the ENGINE, everything else ground off the engine.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 20, 09:15 PM
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Re: Engine Kills

I had a Corvette I fixed that would die after being driven at 65 MPH for 25 miles. Let it cool down and would start right back up. It had previously had everything but the module replaced in the ignition. The module fixed it.

Bought a car that I could drive about 6 blocks and then it would die. let it sit 15 minutes and start and drive another 6 blocks. Clogged sock in the fuel tank.

Jeff
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 20, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Engine Kills

Fuel line is clean as is the filter. The GM HEI is from the 80's and was never rebuilt when I looked at my notes from way back when. I have ordered a complete ACCEL distributer instead of individual components. The temp had no bearing on the starting function, always ran cool even when towing my Camaros with the AC on. Carb does not flood when restarting, just keeps turning over then kicks in. I really appreciate all the feed back,
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