67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat - Page 2 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 06:00 AM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

You went with a big cube motor that that produces a lot of heat relative to the power produced.

The under hood air temp is not causing your engine temp issue and opening the small louver area is not going to help at all.

You can remove/modify the inner fenders but the bottom line is you need more cooling capacity. Bigger radiator and more CFM. You can also try a different coolant like Evans.

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 08:10 AM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Yep better radiator with dual Spal fans and a full shroud. I would talk to C&R. One of their radiators with an oil cooler might be worth considering.

Hood vents can help at speed but wonít address your idling issue.

Don
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 08:11 AM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

have you ever tried a mechanical fan?
I made top and bottom filler panels which force the air to go through the radiator, so it has no place else to go but through the radiator

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
You went with a big cube motor that that produces a lot of heat relative to the power produced.

The under hood air temp is not causing your engine temp issue and opening the small louver area is not going to help at all.

You can remove/modify the inner fenders but the bottom line is you need more cooling capacity. Bigger radiator and more CFM. You can also try a different coolant like Evans.
Great point! You are in line with others. That is exactly what I will do. Bigger radiator with maybe a custom shroud and a closeout panel. C and R and Cold case are my options. I emailed Cold Case, but am unsure if they do custom work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
Yep better radiator with dual Spal fans and a full shroud. I would talk to C&R. One of their radiators with an oil cooler might be worth considering.

Hood vents can help at speed but wonít address your idling issue.

Thanks! I will def contact them. And wouldn't one big fan cover more area than two small fans?Kind of like one big circle in a square covers more area than two circles in a square? The connecting smaller circles will have gaps. Am I thinking incorrectly?
Don
Quote:
Originally Posted by flat tire View Post
have you ever tried a mechanical fan?
I made top and bottom filler panels which force the air to go through the radiator, so it has no place else to go but through the radiator

Thanks! I am def getting a closeout panel! I hope to stay with an electric fan.

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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 10:48 AM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

One fan doesnít necessarily pull more air than two. Itís all about CFM ratings, not area. Even then be careful because it is so easy to manipulate CFM specs. Thatís why I said Spal, they are reasonably trustworthy in their ratings.

Don

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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
One fan doesnít necessarily pull more air than two. Itís all about CFM ratings, not area. Even then be careful because it is so easy to manipulate CFM specs. Thatís why I said Spal, they are reasonably trustworthy in their ratings.

Don
Gotcha! Thanks, Don!
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 03:51 PM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Bigger is better with radiators. I had a 582 in an Impala taxi cab that ran 9.30's. But I cooled it with a Griffin twin one and a quarter inch tube size radiator designed to fit an 1987 Suburban truck with a BBC and automatic. I had to drop the lower mounting bracket to close my flat hood and I had removed the factory A/C and was running a huge oil cooler for the transmission in it's place. Even if you have a manual tranny you want an automatic radiator because the fin count is higher with the automatic radiator (more surface area to cool with) .

One final note don't buy your radiator new. NASCAR makes the race houses take their cars apart every year a nd build a new one from the ground up. You can find a used C&R radiator designed to cool a thousand horsepower for less than the price of a new Griffin. (depending upon the time of the year).

https://www.circletracksupply.com/radiators/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-...-nascar-parts/

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larger Dave View Post
Bigger is better with radiators. I had a 582 in an Impala taxi cab that ran 9.30's. But I cooled it with a Griffin twin one and a quarter inch tube size radiator designed to fit an 1987 Suburban truck with a BBC and automatic. I had to drop the lower mounting bracket to close my flat hood and I had removed the factory A/C and was running a huge oil cooler for the transmission in it's place. Even if you have a manual tranny you want an automatic radiator because the fin count is higher with the automatic radiator (more surface area to cool with) .

One final note don't buy your radiator new. NASCAR makes the race houses take their cars apart every year and build a new one from the ground up. You can find a used C&R radiator designed to cool a thousand horsepower for less than the price of a new Griffin. (depending upon the time of the year).

https://www.circletracksupply.com/radiators/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-...-nascar-parts/

Circle Track Racing Radiators | SRIPerformance.com

Big Dave
Good to know! Thanks again, Dave!

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 20, 09:06 PM
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Kendig did some functional 68 hood vents. They were actually intakes though, not just vents.
They looked bad @$$ !
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 20, 04:17 AM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Another area of concern is the amount of heat being generated by the engine. I put a 454 in my 72 Chevelle and I could feel the heat coming off the engine. Come to find out, the hedder primaries were putting off 500 degrees! They were much too small for a 454 with a 671 Blower. I replaced them with headers with much larger primaries and the problem was solved. Not saying this is your issue, but it could be a contributing factor. But I think I've brought this up before and I think you replied that this area has been addressed.

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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikeike View Post
Kendig did some functional 68 hood vents. They were actually intakes though, not just vents.
They looked bad @$$ !
Those are sweet! And surely expensive!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brettallen59 View Post
Another area of concern is the amount of heat being generated by the engine. I put a 454 in my 72 Chevelle and I could feel the heat coming off the engine. Come to find out, the hedder primaries were putting off 500 degrees! They were much too small for a 454 with a 671 Blower. I replaced them with headers with much larger primaries and the problem was solved. Not saying this is your issue, but it could be a contributing factor. But I think I've brought this up before and I think you replied that this area has been addressed.

Brett....
Thanks, Brett. The headers are 2" and BluePrint says they are ok for that motor.

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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 03:10 PM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhutton View Post

Cowl hood does little also since it opens to an area of high pressure at the base of the windshield.

Don
FWIW I feel air coming out the rear of my cowl hood from the radiator fan, at least at idle as I held my hand over it the other day and air is definitely being "pushed" out. Heat will purge itself through the rear opening of the cowl

I get OP wants to keep his ice tray hood. I also saw the Kindig build. IIRC it was a modern LTx motor though.

"Custom" screens could be made to act as vents. How effective those would actually be IDK.

Big fing radiator with good high output (cfm) fans to manage engine temps. Also if running headers they need to be ceramic coated. That GREATLY reduces header generated heat

I also have the top front cover, aftermarket, that in principal keeps incoming air (while moving) directed through radiator. A friend gave it to me because he wanted a chrome one. IMHO they are high $ but the non chrome ones are $100+ which I think will benefit cooling while moving. Firebirds had a 2 piece one IIRC but not the Chevy
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 03:14 PM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

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Originally Posted by SoCal805 View Post
FWIW I feel air coming out the rear of my cowl hood from the radiator fan, at least at idle as I held my hand over it the other day and air is definitely being "pushed" out. Heat will purge itself through the rear opening of the cowl

I get OP wants to keep his ice tray hood. I also saw the Kindig build. IIRC it was a modern LTx motor though.

"Custom" screens could be made to act as vents. How effective those would actually be IDK.

Big fing radiator with good high output (cfm) fans to manage engine temps. Also if running headers they need to be ceramic coated. That GREATLY reduces header generated heat

I also have the top front cover, aftermarket, that in principal keeps incoming air (while moving) directed through radiator. A friend gave it to me because he wanted a chrome one. IMHO they are high $ but the non chrome ones are $100+ which I think will benefit cooling while moving. Firebirds had a 2 piece one IIRC but not the Chevy
I was referring to when moving at speed, not sitting at idle. The cowl hood is intended as an air intake, and it is an area of high pressure at speed. Thatís why it was designed that way for an intake, not an exhaust....

Don

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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 05:15 PM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

As Kevin suggests, having a close-out panel for the top is good idea and supplement it with a similar panel on the bottom.
Anything preventing re-circulation of engine air is helpful. A panel from the support to the valance panel.
If you want to go further, make a couple for the headlamp buckets.

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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 05:46 PM
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Re: 67 Hood Vents - Engine Heat

Modern cars have a six inch plastic dam attached to the bottom of the radiator support. This is not to let you know when you are about to hit the parking curb, but to prevent air from slipping under the radiator support rather than going through the radiator.

Modern EFI cars have a higher temp thermostat so the engine runs cleaner (carbon mon oxide is further oxidized into carbon dioxide thanks to under hood heat and fresh air pumped into the exhaust port behind the face of the exhaust valve.. Break off that air dam (because you haven't learned where the parts of your car is in relation to the driver).and the temp jumps ten to fifteen degrees.

Cadillacs of the seventies had factory tin to direct air into the radiator back when they had a five hundred cube V8 for a power plant.The Caddy with it's bigger motor still ran cooler than the same body (called an Impala) with a SBC. The Caddy radiator was the same size as that used on the Impala if it had a BBC under the hood (B-bodies or "full size" Chevys are the only car except for the Corvette to have the 427 as an optional engine; and was my go to source of BBC builds for years).

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