Proper Engine Hoist connections - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 05, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thomas
 
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Proper Engine Hoist connections

I'm pulling the engine and wanted to make sure I was connecting the hoist to the engine properly. I'm using a leveler with the hoist so I can adjust the engine/tran as I'm taking them out. I was told to connect the four chains to the forward and rear intake bolts. Looks right but I want to make sure I won't be damaging anything. If this is right, should I use the intake bolts or something stronger.

Anything tricky about the trans. I've seen different views on the crossmember.
Should it stay or go? Any hidden bolts that I may have overlooked?

Thanks...

Thomas

Thomas
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 05, 08:38 PM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

the corner intake bolts will be fine. On the trans, it will all be easier if the crossmember is removed. don't for get the speedo cable.





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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 05, 08:47 PM
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Bill
 
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

Thomas,
I think I am in the minority on this, but I cannot imagine trying to take the engine and trans out together except maybe if the entire front clip is off so you can come straight ou the front. I have seen what a Muncie tailhousing will do to a Chevelle windshield, it is not a pretty picture. I have probably swapped 70 engines in my life and have never done it with the trans attached. Do yourself a favor and snatch the trans out first.
Just my opinion,

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Owner
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1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 05, 09:02 PM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

Hey Bill, It can be done, and it's not that hard. I have removed and fitted and engine/trans assembly (SB350/TH350) without the radiator fitted, but with all sheet metal and radiator support still in place.
Sure it's preferable without the front clip, but with enough angle it's goes in pretty good.
As Jim says.. you must remove the trans crossmember.

Nov 68 Van Nuys. 327 floor-shift-auto, Frost Green and not much else when new.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 05, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thomas
 
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

Thanks guys. Looks like the crossmember is coming out. I've done the transmission on the chest thing a few times in the past and think I will try to remove both. The windshield needs to be replaced anyway...

I do appreciate the help. Wish the internet and these forums were around 20 years ago. My life would have been a lot easier.

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 06:47 AM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

also, everything on the front of the motor should be off (possibly including the balancer) as well as the distributor. With the leveler, it should be no sweat to get the angle you need. motor comes up off the mounts, forward a few inches, then crank the leveler till you get the angle you need to get it out. also if it's a 4 speed, the shifter and linkage can stay on the trans, just unbolt the stick.





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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 12:17 PM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

i prefer to do both engine and tranny at the same time. it isn't that hard- in fact, i think it's worth a little effort up front to do them both at the same time instead of doing one at a time, which essentially takes twice as long.
i put the engine/trans combo in and out of my Nova 3 times together- and that was with all the accessories on the engine (except the headers, of course). no problems there. when i put the 350/TH350 in my vega, they went in as a unit. came out as a unit, too.
as for where to hook the chains- unless you don't have an intake on it, hook them to the wall and get a carb lift plate. after using the carb plate, i can't recall how i ever thought using chains hooked to the intake or heads was a good idea. and it will hold- each bolt is good for a couple tons of weight if the threads are in good shape, and there are 4 of them. and with all the weight balanced in the center like that, you can move or tip the engine/trans combo any direction you need to get things to clear.

you don't plan sincerity.
you have to make it up on the spot.

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

novaderrik,

I've been reading about this approach but not quite sure how to hook it all up. Is there a special plate I need to purchase? I assume plate would connect to bolts where carb should be ... correct? I want to be as efficient and safe as possible so I'm trying to get as much info as possible before I actually try to lift it out. Still disconnecting everything at this point.

Thanks

Thomas
'68 Camaro Convertible
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 03:16 PM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

Thomas, the load leveler you have is absolutely the best possible solution, although the chains (4 of em!) are a pain in the neck. With one hand on the jack, the other on a ratchet on the leveler screw, one man can get the biggesat engine/trans combo out of the smallest engine bay in the world, without ever having to so much as touch it.

The carb plate is the easiest to hook up, but you need an extra man to stand on the trans to get an angle, and even then there won't be any paint on the firewall by the time it's out. (and if the guy falls off the tailshaft, bye bye windshield!)





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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 04:37 PM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

huh? i put a 454 with a T10 in a show quality 67 Chevelle last year- by myself- using the carb plate. didn't even put a scratch on the perfect black paint on the firewall, and the radiator support was still in place.
used the same plate taking the smallblock out, and didn't put a single scratch anywhere. i did it all standing in front of the car.
a 67 Chevelle engine bay isn't that much different than a Camaro engine bay.

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you have to make it up on the spot.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 04:43 PM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

guess we each have our preferences?





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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thomas
 
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

Thanks guys. Two more things. I believe I just about have it ready to go.

Should I use the intake bolts or would it be better to get a different set?

Also, I was about to remove the four bolts from the trans. Then I realized that the speedometer was connected to that sevction and someone mentioned to remove the speedometer. So I wondered if this piece needed to be removed. If not, does the drive shaft just slip on and off without any bolts to remove. It's been a while (20 yrs) since I've tackled a removal and can't seem to remember the specifics with the driveshaft.

Thanks again for all your help.

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 05:19 PM
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

leave the trans on, all of it. You didn't mention if it was an auto or a manual...but...

The rear u-joint are held on with u-bolts or clamp things, 4 bolts or nuts at the rear end.

The speedo cable unscrews from the transmission and pulls out.

make sure the car is on 4 stands, and is secure.
Unscrew the speedo cable, pull it out, and hook it around the ebrake cable to keep it out of the way.
If it's an auto, or a manual with a muncie linkage, take the linkage off the trans.
if it's a manual with an aftermarket hurst linkage, just unbolt the stick, from up top.
pull the driveshaft (onbolt back u-joint clips, and pull it out of the trans), and wrap the end of the trans with duct tape so it don't puke too much oil.
take out the 2 bolts that hold the trans to the crossmember.

Assuming you're ready to go up top,
Crank the leveler toward the back, and put enough strain on the hoist to lift the trans off the crossmember a lil bit.
unbolt the crossmember and kick it out of the way, easiest to kick the pass side forward and the drivers side back until it will fall out.
center the leveler over the carb.
adjust the hoist so u can get the moitor mount bolts off.
raise till the mounts come clear, pull the hoist forward a couple inches, crank the leveler toward the thermostat until you get the angle you need
lift and separate.





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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thomas
 
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

JimM,

It's an auto. I don't recall seeing any bolts at the rear end. I looked earlier today to see what needed to be removed and the only bolts were on the trans where the speedo connects. Thats why I asked because the only thing I could figure was that the shaft just slid off the trans. I'll have another look at the rear-end to make sure.

Got everything pretty much ready to go. Still waiting on some responses for the bolts. Hopefully, I'll get the hoist connected tomorrow and she'll come right out. I know... wishful thinking.

Thomas
'68 Camaro Convertible
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 05, 07:11 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: Proper Engine Hoist connections

Do your self a favor, either find a plastic cap to put on the output shaft of the trans or drain the pan. Otherwise you will have a lot of fluid run out of it on to your floor and it will look like mine.

I always use a load leveler, although I would like to try a carb plate. I also usually bolt the chains on one of the accessory holes for the heads. Different techinque, but it works. If you don't trust your intake bolts, go get some grade 8 bolts.
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