Rocker arm adjustment HELP! - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 05, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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Question Rocker arm adjustment HELP!(Rocker stud replacement)

I have just installed a new set of crane cams energizer rocker arms in a rebuilt 327. I installed them following the instructions that came with them (When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm and so on). But when I started the engine for the first time I had allot of tapping and a bad running engine. So I pulled the valve covers and seen that two of the rockers are no longer seated to the push rod. So what I wanted to know is if I us the method below will it help me get the correct adjustment?

Motor at TDC firing #1

Adjust #1 intake and exhaust valves.
Adjust #3 Exhaust
Adjust #5 Intake
Adjust #7 Intake
Adjust #2 Intake
Adjust #4 Exhaust
Adjust #8 Exhaust

Rotate crank 360* to TDC

Adjust #3 Intake
Adjust #5 Exhaust
Adjust #7 Exhaust
Adjust #2 Exhaust
Adjust #4 Intake
Adjust #6 Intake and Exhaust
Adjust #8 Intake

This is the cam that is installed!

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-5,500 RPM
Intake Duration 050 inch Lift: 218
Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift: 218
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./218 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268
Advertised Duration: 268 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.454
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.454
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.454 int./0.454 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Intake Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Exhaust Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Grind Number: CS 268H-10

Any help would be great..

--Branden Hall<br />1968 Chevy Camaro<br />327, 4-speed, 3.42 posi

Last edited by hall85296; Sep 13th, 05 at 09:34 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 05, 05:36 PM
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

Here's what I have found about the easiest way to adjust vallves on any motor without having to remember what valves to adjust at what timing mark position, etc.

Simply watch the the cylinder of the valves you are adjusting. Bump the starter until both valves have stopped moving. The last one to move will be the intake. Go several degrees past this point and both valves will be on the base of the cam lobes. Adjust as required for hydraulic or solid lifters and do the same for the next cylinder you want to adjust.

Observe how far the balancer has to move between the intake closing and the exhaust opening and you will an idea what is about right for the valves to be on the base of the lobes. You will see that there is a large amount of rotation of the crank while the valves remain seated. There is plenty of room for error as to where the crank is positioned when adjusting.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 05, 05:50 PM
 
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

looks right.but i'm not positive. i adjusted rocker arms on an 83 chevy 350 with a hydraulic flat tappet cam(Stock). It looks like the same type of pattern for adjusting valves. make sure you spin the push rod as you adjust the rocker arm and make sure you clean the oil off the the push rod so your fingers don't slip as you spin the push rod. when the push rod stops spining you've adjusted the rocker arm far enough.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 05, 07:05 PM
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

454camaro, don't forget for a hydraulic cam the adjusting nut needs a another turn, max.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 05, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

Thanks for all of the information! I went through the steps above and when I was truning the engine over I seen the stud pull out of the head again. So now my question is what do I do to correct this problem, I am running camel hump 462 heads. I really do not want to be forced to pull the head so can I just replace the studs with new press fit studs or can I just screw in new apr studs?

--Branden Hall<br />1968 Chevy Camaro<br />327, 4-speed, 3.42 posi
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 05, 02:09 PM
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

I think you definitely go with the screw in studs. You are pretty much guaranteed it will never happen again. I would do all of them since if one went, the rest will follow.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 05, 03:14 PM
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

Place a straight edge over the rocker studs. Any one ofd them pulling out will be noticed.

I use the EO IC method and works for me.

GM sells a 0.006" oversize stud to press into the head. Be sure to drain the coolant from the side of the block the stud is being replaced on.

You can super freeze with a CO2 bottle or dry ice the stud, and it will fall through the head if allowed.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 05, 06:43 PM
 
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

ya i remembered that part the next day, sorry for mis informing anybody.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 05, 07:41 PM
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390
GM sells a 0.006" oversize stud to press into the head. Be sure to drain the coolant from the side of the block the stud is being replaced on.

You can super freeze with a CO2 bottle or dry ice the stud, and it will fall through the head if allowed.
It's pretty risky to use a replacement O/S press-in stud without reaming the stud hole properly first; I've seen stud bosses crack after frozen O/S studs were installed in the standard hole.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 05, 07:46 PM
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hall85296
I really do not want to be forced to pull the head so can I just replace the studs with new press fit studs or can I just screw in new apr studs?
You can't just tap the stud holes and install ARP screw-in studs; the stud bosses have to be machined/spotfaced first. Plan on pulling the heads whether you're going with straight threaded studs or with hex-base threaded studs.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 05, 08:16 PM
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Re: Rocker arm adjustment HELP!(Rocker stud replacement)

Brandon,
Pioneer makes a screw in stud that does not have a nut type boss on the bottom. It is made to replace studs like yours that are pulling out without having to do any crazy machining. You just pull out the old stud and tap the hole to 7/16 x 14. The hole for the existing stud is the correct size for the 7/16 tap and the tap tends to follow the hole and stay straight. I think the Pioneer part number is RM348. Your machine shop should be able to get them for you. You can pull the old stud by stacking a bunch of old rocker balls on the stud then screwing a 3/8 fine thread nut down on them. It will pull the stud out most of the time.
One bit of advice ... do not skimp on the tap you use. Get a Snap-On one if you can find one. The cheap hardware store ones get "killed" by the cast iron and will also break pretty easily, causing major grief Also use tapping fluid.
Also, with that cam, you are pretty close to the retainer hitting the top of the valve guides or the seals on most stock heads. If you have not changed springs, they could also be coil binding and causing the studs to pull out. Might want to check everything out pretty good.

Hope this helps,

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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