Restoring a 1968 327 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 05, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Restoring a 1968 327

Ok guys, got a 327 with .30 over cylinders, oversized valves, and a 4bbl rochester carb. Problem is, the cars been dormant under a tarp for about 8 or 9 years. Now, the only reason the car has been dormant is because front left suspension got FUBAR'd. From the engine laying dormant from that time, we went to start it up and the engine tried to turn over so all hope is not lost.

Now, the engine has caught on fire twice but has always been the owner/carburetuer problem (He liked to run it without the air cleaner on because it "sounded cooler"). No real engine damage ever happened from the fire, just burnt the paint off the wires. I am pretty confident the engine is going to need to be taken out for cleaning and thorough inspection.

What do I do to clean the engine. I have all the tools for sandblasting and will not hesitate to buy a product that will make my life easier to clean the engine out. I heard any gasoline or oil in the engine will be like sludge now, how true is that, and how do I clean it. Furthermore, what procedure should I follow for cleaning the rest of the engine.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 05, 09:01 PM
 
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Smile Re: Restoring a 1968 327

Drain her and change the filter and crank her up AND run her say, about 500 miles AND repeat!

I would squirt some good old Marvel Mystery Oil in each spark plug hole to lube the rings and wetting as well as loosening the rings up too... Turn her over w/o the plugs using the starter to lube her good and install them and GO light her off!!

She may bang, rattle and hammer until she gets warm and normalizes, but I bet she will be fine, imho...

Done it to more than several through the years!! AND make sure you have a fire ext. or a good water hose around in case she catches fire again OR you have to shove the hose down the rad. cap to cool her until she is ready to go proper-like...

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 05, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Restoring a 1968 327

How can I check if the engine will accept unleaded gas?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 05, 03:40 PM
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Re: Restoring a 1968 327

The engine will "accept" unleaded gas. Unless you know the comp is less than 9:1, start with the highest octane you can buy. If there's no ping, go down a grade and see what happens.

The lead acted as a valve lubricant, particularly on the exhaust valves. The manufacturers went to hardened seats after lead was phased out. Without hardened seats, the exhaust seats may wear a little faster, but we're not talking anything extreme, it will not be a problem for many many miles, if ever.





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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 05, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Restoring a 1968 327

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM
The engine will "accept" unleaded gas. Unless you know the comp is less than 9:1, start with the highest octane you can buy. If there's no ping, go down a grade and see what happens.

The lead acted as a valve lubricant, particularly on the exhaust valves. The manufacturers went to hardened seats after lead was phased out. Without hardened seats, the exhaust seats may wear a little faster, but we're not talking anything extreme, it will not be a problem for many many miles, if ever.
Should I get the engine rebuild kit from Classic Industries or at least new seals and gaskets?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 05, 07:31 PM
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Re: Restoring a 1968 327

I personally wouldn't look at rebuilding it until I fired it up to see how it runs and sounds. I'd do a compression test on her to see where she's at. That will tell quite a bit. Since it has been sitting for 8 to 9 years, the internals might still be in great condition and you'd just be waisting your time and money doing a rebuild. If you plan to keep the current carburetor, I'd probably get it rebuilt or replace it. Additionally, it probably could use new oil pan, valve cover, and timing chain cover gaskets, but I'd fire it up first to see how bad they leak if they leak at all. Just my two pennies...

Marty Lake
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 05, 09:31 AM
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Re: Restoring a 1968 327

If it was mine and I decided for sure on a rebuild, I would do a flush run using two quarts of diesel, two quarts of cheap oil, and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. We have used this on a LOT of engines and it really helps cut the gunk loose. Start it up but only let it run for less than 1 minute. If it won't start, pull the plugs and crank it until you get oil pressure and then for a few seconds longer to get the mixture throughout the engine. You can leave it in until you pull the engine and start tearing it down. Don't do this unless you are sure you are going to rebuild because the detergents in the mix will cut loose a lot of sludge. It even cuts that slime that STP leaves inside.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 05, 09:44 AM
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Lightbulb Re: Restoring a 1968 327

Dear Mr. 'Cracky';

As the others have said - flush her out and give her a whirl...
We think you will be surprized at how long you can let a SBC linger and still have it work right.

As for your question - "Should I get the engine rebuild kit from Classic Industries or at least new seals and gaskets?" - for god sakes man, get yee to Summit or PAW or ??? and get your 'overhaul' stuff. - Classic will be trebble the coin for gaskets or a simple kit, if you needed one.

As always - JMHO;
John

btw - where the heck are you? If you update your profile we may know some local sources for parts for yee...

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