Head bolt to header interference - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 05, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Head bolt to header interference

I'm installing Hooker Comp 2" headers on my ZZ502. During the trial fit, I found that the head bolts that run along the bottom side of the GMPP aluminum heads just below the exhaust ports are in the way of the header install. The header flange hits them before I can get any of the bolts lined up.

I'd rather not grind the flange down as I don't want any weak points that are prone to leaks later. I'm also thinking that grinding the heads on the bolts is a bad idea.

I'm using the standard head bolts that came with my ZZ502 long block kit. Are there any low profile head bolts out there?

Tim

Meanchicken
68 SS
ZZ502; TKO-600; 3:73 Moser 12-bolt w/Detroit TruTrak; SSBC Force 10 4 wheel power disks;QA1 Coil Overs; Global West Tubulars;GNX Quick Ratio 12:1 PS; Hotchkis Front Sway Bar
87 Buick Grand National (does 10's)
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 05, 05:43 AM
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Bill
 
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Re: Head bolt to header interference

Tim,
ARP makes a set of the bolts you need. They have a smaller, 12 point head on them.

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 05, 09:46 AM
 
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Re: Head bolt to header interference

I had the same problem with my headers! Dont take anything off the head bolts!!! The little bit of grinding that you have to do on the flanges is very minimal. I know it hurts to grind on a brand new set of headers, but you wont regret it. I have no leaks as of a years worth of running. Be sure to re-torque after inital start up and you should be in great shape. The real fun begins when you install them between the rails!! Be sure you have a hoist or a very tall floor jack for the drivers side. Passenger side is a piece of cake!
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 05, 12:32 PM
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Wally
 
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Re: Head bolt to header interference

They make spacers for the headers. I used them on several boat engines to move the exhaust away from the valve covers. I think they were 3/8 thick and if you need to grind on those it's a no brainer.

You need a little extra room to use these.

Gold 67
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 05, 05:12 PM
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Re: Head bolt to header interference

I had the same problem on a 461 BB I built with GMPP aluminum oval ports. Even with the 12 point head bolts the flanges would not clear. I bit the bullet and ground the flanges on the headers. I scribed the flanges, then carefully ground them to get the clearance I needed. I used an old cast iron head and one of the new bolts to do a mock-up assembly of the header on the head to make my marks. Once I got the depth of the grind right on one bolt I just made the other grinds the same depth. There was still a decent amount of the flange left at the grinds around the tubes. After a year, still no leaks.

69 RS 355 Tremec 5-Speed 4.11's
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 05, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Head bolt to header interference

Thanks for the feedback.
Guess I'll break out the grinder when I get home from Sweden and the Netherlands (just flew out here today) and hack up my perty header flanges....

The engine is still on the engine stand, so that will make it easier to figure out how much I need to take off.

Begs the question...why doesn't Hooker build this tolerance into their flanges.....?

Tim

Meanchicken
68 SS
ZZ502; TKO-600; 3:73 Moser 12-bolt w/Detroit TruTrak; SSBC Force 10 4 wheel power disks;QA1 Coil Overs; Global West Tubulars;GNX Quick Ratio 12:1 PS; Hotchkis Front Sway Bar
87 Buick Grand National (does 10's)
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