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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 05, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Engine & Trans Install question

Hi folks, getting ready to re-install my new 383 into my 68 4 speed Ragtop, I had the subframe and x-member powder coated, and do not want to mess up the the x-member putting it in after engine and trans are in. my question..., can the engine and trans as an assembly go in and clear the crossmember, already bolted in, thenn just bolt the trans mount to the x-member? T
he entire front clip and suspension is off the car so I don't have to worry about a major tilt move with the engine lift, however I am running an Accel HEI and praying to the Camaro Gods that it clears the firewall..
anyone been down this road??
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 07:12 AM
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

You could try it, but I don't think so. pretty sure it will have to tilt some to get up and over the frame mounts. That distributor will have to come out, too. Don't forget to mark it, both the body to manifold and the rotor.





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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

Why would the dist. have to come out? it will either clear or not clear. I've done engine installs with the dist. in, are you saying it needs to come out because it is an HEI and will not clear?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 09:46 AM
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Thumbs down Re: Engine & Trans Install question

As you point out it will either clear the distributor or not. Having installed hundreds of engines in Camaros and other Chevys I am of the opinion it will not clear most of the time. Play it safe and remove one potential headache.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 10:02 AM
 
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

If it clears it will be close. I would remove it also just to make sure I didnt break the cap or scratch the car. Once your down in there if it doesnt look like it will clear you may not have room to remove it then without backing it out. And I'm pretty sure it will have to be tilted some. Unless you have many hands/eyes to help you instal it I wouldnt risk it. Always better to be safe than sorry. IMO
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 01:40 PM
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFMB
The entire front clip and suspension is off the car so I don't have to worry about a major tilt move with the engine lift, however I am running an Accel HEI and praying to the Camaro Gods that it clears the firewall..
If the front end is off from the unibody, why not set engine and trans together onto the subframe and roll it underneath the body?

If the assembly is too large to manuver by yourself, then attach the subframe and drop in the engine & trans later without the distributor. Leave the engine at #1 TDC. Leave a folded towel on the xmember to prevent scratching, then remove the towel later by lifting up on the tailhousing and remove the towel.

You could leave off the radiator support to prevent the extreme angle.

If the subframe is equipped with 307/327 chassis mounts, HEI will clear. The 350/302 mounts move the engine rearward for HEI to not fit.

Just my thoughts.........

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

Great info thanks, yes it has original 327 engine mounts. I pondered the idea of setting the engine and trans in the sub frame, then jacking the whole frame into place, I only own two floor jacks so it may "teeter" a bit that way, as it has no suspension on it either, just a bare subframe. so I kinda nixed that route, my plan was to bolt on the bare subframe, then, install steering box, center link tie rods idler arm, brake lines, etc, then install engine, control arms springs, etc.. Does this make sense? it seems safer to me..
thanks
Jeff
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 05:38 PM
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

makes lotsa sense. I did the engine last last year, was way easy doing everything else without it in the way. As for scratches, just be careful, and use a load leveler on your hoist!
We pulled my engine and trans today, didn't leave a mark!





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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 06:40 PM
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

Please dont try to hang motor with trans attached with one of those intake manifold engine plates... Thats a lot of weight for those 4 5/16th studs screwed into the intake manifold or a good stock alum Z hi rise manifold.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 05, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

I have never used the carb intake lift thing, that scares me as well, I bolt to the heads and use a load leveler, the best device I have ever had.., I am now leaning towards what Everett said, and dropping the engine an trans onto the subframe, then rolling it up to the body. I figure, I'll line the bare frame up as close as possible as to center it to roll direct backwards towards the body. install steering box and center link, clutch cross shaft brake line etc. Then with a small floor jack under the rear X-member big floor jack under the forward x-member, two jack stands standing by on the left and right frame horns wrapped with cloth diapers in case it wants to tilt left or right when I lift the entire thing off the jack stands. Then it should be a matter of jacking both jacks up off the jack stands, and rolling it towards the body using the big floor jack which has a bolt through the saddle that goes up into the hole in the front X-member to keep it from slipping, the rear jack I hope will just roll with the whole unit, once in place check the alignment bolts for fit jack it up and bolt it to the body.. Sound like a plan? am I missing anything??
Thanks,
Jeff
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 05, 10:54 AM
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

For stability purposes, I think it would be better to have the front suspension on and wheels & ties attached, then use a floor jack for the rear crossmember positioning.

Only problem with this effort is it is hard to compress the front springs to install in their pockets as there is no weight on the subframe to help compress the springs.

Three floor jacks would be better, two on the front horns and one on the rear crossmember. You could probably use the engine lift still attached to the engine and bolt the subframe onto the engine and trans and use the engine lift to roll the assembly underneath the body.

Just be careful, THINK about the task at hand and procede cautiously.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 05, 12:51 PM
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Re: Engine & Trans Install question

I just pulled the engine and trans from my 68, 350 with auto. I used a carb lift plate. It was a little scary but everything came out with no problem. I did use grade 8 bolts on the lift plate.


Steve

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