Temp guage - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 07, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Harvard
 
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Location: Beaverton, Oregon
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Temp guage

I've looked through past posts and looked at the pics provided and wondered if anyone has a picture of where the wires and resistor go on the back of the center console temp. guage. I've got all the wiring diagrams and have original guages and a new console wiring harness. All the guages work except the temp. guage. I've also gotten a new sending unit for it. Somehow I'm getting confused looking at all the diagrams and translating that to my guages and can't get the resistor and wire connectors in the right place. In fact the diagram that came with the harness shows the hookup differently than the other wiring diagrams. Everytime I've hooked up the temp guage it blows the fuse, which I know is a short. Click had a good pic of the backside, but I couldn't quite make out the temp. hookup. Any help here? Thanks.

1968 Z28 British Green, all original except CE 302 engine. Have original owners booklet and protect-o-plate.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 17th, 07, 04:26 PM
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Mike
 
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Re: Temp guage

Harvard, this pic is from lectric ltd. website. Hope it helps.



Mike


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 17th, 07, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp guage

That will be a good start. Thanks Mike68!

1968 Z28 British Green, all original except CE 302 engine. Have original owners booklet and protect-o-plate.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 07, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp guage

This is a picture of the back of my temp guage. The prong on the right side is power? (the pink wire) and the left is to the sensor? (green wire). It doesn't look 100% like the picture Mike has. Can anyone tell if this is right? Everytime I hook this up it blows the fuse for the dash. As far as I can tell I have all the wiring right, all the other guages work and I hooked up everything like the wiring diagrams show.
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1968 Z28 British Green, all original except CE 302 engine. Have original owners booklet and protect-o-plate.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 07, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp guage

I looked at the pics of Click's guages and I have my grounds hooked up on the back cluster, his are grounded on the front cluster. Also, my temp guage has the resister going vertical, his is horizontal. Is this the difference between 68 and 69 and/or repro guages and original ones? Mine are original and I'm getting a headache trying to figure this out.

1968 Z28 British Green, all original except CE 302 engine. Have original owners booklet and protect-o-plate.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 07, 06:20 PM
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Mark
 
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Re: Temp guage

Looks right, sender is the outer terminal (left looking at the picture), power is the inner (right looking at the picture). No difference between 68 and 69 wiring, the resistor is vertical, spacer is horizontal. On the top terminal make sure there is a small phenolic spacer around the stud where it passes thru the metal mounting plate. That terminal is connected to the 12V power terminal thru the windings of the gauge, and if the stud shorts out against the mounting plate, that might blow your fuse, might also melt your guage windings.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 07, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp guage

So Mark, are you saying that top stud can't touch the metal housing that the guage is mounted in? That could be the problem, I don't think I have anything between it and the resistor. That stud could be touching the metal housing it goes through. The stud should just contact the resistor and nothing else? On the right terminal, I think the plastic spacer goes around the stud and into the hole a little bit to keep it from touching the housing. I should use something like that on the top or a plastic sleeve of some sort?

1968 Z28 British Green, all original except CE 302 engine. Have original owners booklet and protect-o-plate.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 07, 06:59 AM
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Mark
 
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Re: Temp guage

The top three studs should have that little phenolic spacer on them, and the bottom one doesn't since its the ground point for the guage. They look like a little plastic o ring and they are actually part of the interior part of the gauge. If its missing, or broken off get a short length of heat shrink tube or a very short peice of the smallest vacuum line to insulate the stud.

There are two sets of windings inside the gauge, one wound clockwise, the other counterclockwise. The power lead is connected to one end of each of these windings inside the gauge housing. One winding is connected to the sender lead at the other end, and the other winding is connected to the 86 ohm resistor on the back of the gauge. The winding connected to the resistor makes the guage move down scale towards cold, the winding connected to the sender makes the gauge move upscale towards hot. They balance each other out somewhere just above the 1/4 scale mark when the car is running at 180 degreees.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 07, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp guage

I'll find something to work to insulate it. That's got to be the problem because to blow a fuse it has to have a hot getting grounded and that's the only place it could be. I tested the guage with the lead grounded and not and it swings back and forth like it supposed to. I didn't have all the pieces I needed for the guage, so I got a guage installation kit and I don't think it had any insulators for the studs. Thanks again.

1968 Z28 British Green, all original except CE 302 engine. Have original owners booklet and protect-o-plate.
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