Electrical Wizard Wanted
I recently had our first opportunity, I thought, to install one of the popular manufacturers Rally Sport electric headlight conversion kits on a 68 Camaro. Very simple and basic wiring design. Four wires into the module, one from headlight wire and one from parking light lead on the headlight switch, thier ground wire and thier FUSED 12v wire to bat. terminal on the fuse box. Four wires go out to the doors, two to open and two to close. First of all, the ultimate problem was caused by one of my employees who had a hidden and unnecessary splice in two of the wires going to the headlight doors from the module, because he cut the wires too short, and failed to disclose that info during the troubleshooting effort trying to solve this issue. I am totally responsible for this, BUT, I need to know from someone who knows more about circutry than I do, so I can rest my mind here. The short version is that the first module blew instantly but without any type of indication other than nothing worked. No start up cycle, no noise, no blown FUSE. Had another module sent to me and I returned the bad one. During the wait time, checked and double checked grounds, connections, etc. Including all known splices in the system. Module two shows up and we go to the bench with a mock up wire harness, separate battery, a different and original headlight switch, and headlight door harness. Voltage checks out on all wires, move over to car and attach mock headlight door harness to door motors. Works great. Do final install in car and hook up the battery, nothing. Exactly the same, no noise, clicks or blown FUSES. Knowing the odds of getting two bad modules was slim, the next module was on me. They recieved the first one back by then and confirmed it was bad, but had no answer or clue as to why. Module #3 and I'm nervous as hell and pulling hair. Everything in the original wiring harness including all the lighting works perfect. Bench test, etc. and then move to car. Hook up power and thier fuse finally blows, replace it, and it blows again. With a new tech guy on the line and an hr. of a complete rundown of the system, we determine the problem has to be in the headlight door wiring harness and as I said, after removing a foot of black harness tape, there it was, splice number three and bare wire touching bare wire. I won't even tell you about the conversation I had with the help. Feeling like a fool, I repair the wiring and put in another FUSE, and finally we have lift off, Problem is we have too many volts going to drivers side door and not enough to the passenger side. More tests, more phone calls and absolutley no answers or clues as to why or even how this module is designed. Now I believe if you sell a product and provide a tech line, that someone on the end of that line should at least know how that product works. Not here. It's decided that the fuse did't quite blow fast enough to prevent partial damage to the module. Now, finally here is what I need to know. Why did module number three blow the fuses but not module 1 & 2? Isn't that what a fused link is supposed to do. Is it because the bad wire connection was going out of the module and past the fused link? Isn't that what diodes are supposed to be for? That still doesn't account for 1 & 2 not blowing, yet 3 did. I'm having a hard time thinking that this design is in need of improvement and I just provided them with some field testing at my expense. By the way, I installed box number four today, my dime of course, and the car is finally on it's way. I would appreciate any feedback, except please save the the thrashing of my poor management skills, my foot is so far up my butt now, it'll be there for weeks.