Accessory position is a go - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 07, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Accessory position is a go

This is probably something i missed when i put in a new style fuse panel in my 69... but i've got 2 steering column issues i need some tips on where to start looking... First when I turn my key back to the accessory position it gives me the same thing as start position... Secondly, my flasher pull knob does nothing when pulled. The steering column was a refurbed replacement tilt column that I bought for the car. Not that its necessarily in the column, but i assume I need to start there. Any starting point tips?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 07, 08:35 PM
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Re: Accessory position is a go

So when you turn the key back to ACC, it cranks?

On the flasher knob, it's a push not a pull. Push in to turn on the flashers, pull back out to turn them off.

Eric
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 07, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Accessory position is a go

It doesn't crank when I turn the key back to accessory, it just powers up everything the same as if you turned the key forward. I mistyped on the flasher, you are correct, no flashers.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 07, 07:00 PM
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Re: Accessory position is a go

bl -

I want to help, but I'm still not getting it all.

For the ACC position issue, I think your going to have to tell us what circuits are powering up that you don't think should be, or what's happening that's making you think something is wrong. Many of the circuits are supposed to be energized when the key is turned back, so we need to know what's coming on that you think should not, and we can go from there.

For the hazards, which "new style fuse box" did you install? On my AAW Classic Update, there are two flasher relay positions; one at the bottom right, which is obvious because it has a round recessed area around it, and one at the top left, which isn't as obvious. Are both of these flashers in your fuse box? If yes, then is the flasher knob going in and engaging with a click you can feel? When I rebuilt my column, I had the turn signal switch assembly out of position by a hair, nd the knob would not go all the way in and click. I moved it, and now it clicks and the flashers come on fine.

Eric
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 07, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Accessory position is a go

The fuse panel I wired in was a "painless" 18 circuit universal. Something you said about your fuse panel clicked with me and I went and looked at mine and sure enough... I left off my top left flasher. Dumb mistake, but i'm happy that problem has been marked off the list. On the accessory position, everything functions in acc. position. The fan works, my fuel pump runs, gages come on. If you have the car running and turn it off and right into acc. position, the car will keep running. I don't know how easy it will be to troubleshoot since its not a stock system, but i'll take any help i can get.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 3rd, 07, 05:36 AM
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Re: Accessory position is a go

If the engine is running in ACC position, you need to kill the voltage sense wire, the left wire of the two-wire connector. The alt is backfeeding current into the ign circuit.

When internal reg alt came out, ignition switches came equipped with two ign circuits, one for ign and the other for alt voltage sensing. Open the voltage sense circuit, engine dies.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 3rd, 07, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Accessory position is a go

I'm running a one wire alternator... ???
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 3rd, 07, 09:24 AM
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Re: Accessory position is a go

If you remove the BAT wire from the alt, the engine ? (runs or dies?)

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 3rd, 07, 09:32 AM
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Re: Accessory position is a go

Reviewing the Painless instruction PDF, I can't figure out where the main power feed to the fuse box is supposed to be taken from.

On an OE harness, power feeds from the battery across the rad support to the buss bar on the horn relay, and from the horn relay to the fuse box.
It does sound like your 12V feed to the fuse box is hooked onto the output for the alternator somehow.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 07, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Accessory position is a go

My power feed to the fuse panel is setup just like OE.... across the rad-horn relay- fuse box. I don't know that this has anything to do with this issue, but another electrical issue i've got on my to do list is when I turn my blower fan on, lights, or electric fan comes on... I see a severe drop off in voltage on my system...as far as my dash gage shows... I go from 14 volts down to 12v when my electric fan kicks in...12.5 when the blower fan is turned on, and about 13ish when the lights are on.... I have got a 30 amp fuse at the battery on my my fuse box's 12v feed wire... this fuse will blow on me if I have all of the above on at the same time. I haven't tackled re-evaluating loads and pull on that feed yet. I was extremely happy when i fired the car back up and everything seemed to work like it was supposed to after the fuse panel rewire.... almost everything. On removing the alt wire while the car is running... i'll have to try that today, I hope it keeps running.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 07, 09:40 AM
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Re: Accessory position is a go

Quote:
Originally Posted by bl1work View Post
My power feed to the fuse panel is setup just like OE.... across the rad-horn relay- fuse box. I don't know that this has anything to do with this issue, but another electrical issue i've got on my to do list is when I turn my blower fan on, lights, or electric fan comes on... I see a severe drop off in voltage on my system...as far as my dash gage shows... I go from 14 volts down to 12v when my electric fan kicks in...12.5 when the blower fan is turned on, and about 13ish when the lights are on.... I have got a 30 amp fuse at the battery on my my fuse box's 12v feed wire... this fuse will blow on me if I have all of the above on at the same time.
This is because you have a one-wire alternator vice three wire. With a three-wire, you can bring the voltage sense wire to the fuse panel and the alt will correct itself.
Quote:
I haven't tackled re-evaluating loads and pull on that feed yet. I was extremely happy when i fired the car back up and everything seemed to work like it was supposed to after the fuse panel rewire.... almost everything.
You probably need a 40 amp fuse for those accessories, or solder in a fusible link, a length of wire two wire gauge sizes smaller.
Quote:
On removing the alt wire while the car is running... i'll have to try that today, I hope it keeps running.
With ign key in ACC, you want engine to shut off.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 07, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Accessory position is a go

Learn something everyday... so that is what the soldered wire chunk is on oem battery cables... I guess I didn't give it much thought. I'll do that then. I didn't read close enough to see you meant having the vehicle running in acc pos. when unhooking the alt. I'm not completely following you on the 3 wire v 1 wire alternator.. voltage drop. Originally, my alternator plug had a brown wire that connected back into the fusepanel. This wire from the fuse panel read 12volts with the keyswitch on... alternator guys told me that that wire was the turn on wire for alternator but it should read 10-11volts, it was supposed to run through resistance like through a dummy light on the dash. I no longer have those type lights on my new dash so I guess thats where my problem was. He told me that I could either run the line through a light or he could make my alternator 1 wire so I wouldn't need it anymore. Obviously i went with the latter. My alternator is a 90's style now... serpentine. So I'm not following exactly what is happening, or what I need to do to correct it. The only wire I have from my fuse panel is the original "brown" supposedly alt turn on wire. I really appreciate all the help.
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