The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all? - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 07, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Jason
 
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Cool The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

The following electrical items in my '67 dont work. Is there something in common that maybe is wrong that is causing all this? I have all good fuses installed beneath the steering column fuse box.

Horn
Hazard Lights
Radio
A/C fans (after market)
Cigarette Lighter

I am new to the 67 camaro, and even more new how to troubleshoot electrical problems. I tried, for example to test for DC voltage from the top horn plug (plug pulled and red test lead jammed in there) and black lead touching engine block. Got nothing when horn depressed. I have tried for about an hour to read up on prior posts but am now more confused than before. I guess I am not that bright. Any customized help available?

Thank you all!
Jb

Thanks for

Plain Jane 67 w/ Original 327/210.
Mods: 3spd Saginaw now a PowerGlide. 2bbl Rochester now a Holley 4bbl (4160). Hardened Valve Seats. 133k Miles. Everything else is original. Family car since 1968!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 07, 09:21 PM
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David
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

"Got nothing when horn depressed"....

Did you hear the horn relay make a clicking sound when you tested the horn? If not...the relay is probably the culprit.Have you checked to see if you have any loose connections on the Hazard Lights,Radio,A/C fans,and Cigarette Lighter? Check to see if they are properly grounded.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 07, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Jason
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

No - no clicking sound.

So this relay...is it the smaller (and lower) of the two boxes mounted on the driver side, front wall?

I played around with that trying to test for voltage and such - then read where one suggested running a wire from the + battery terminal to the green wire on the relay and make the horn sound...in doing so, I accidentally touched one of the wires on that relay box (due to it being unbolted it from the wall to access easier) and it sparked! Now...my blinkers dont work, but when I push on the brake (even with the key out) the green console blinker triangles light up??

What did I break now?

Plain Jane 67 w/ Original 327/210.
Mods: 3spd Saginaw now a PowerGlide. 2bbl Rochester now a Holley 4bbl (4160). Hardened Valve Seats. 133k Miles. Everything else is original. Family car since 1968!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 07, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Jason
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

How do you "check for proper ground?".

Plain Jane 67 w/ Original 327/210.
Mods: 3spd Saginaw now a PowerGlide. 2bbl Rochester now a Holley 4bbl (4160). Hardened Valve Seats. 133k Miles. Everything else is original. Family car since 1968!
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 07, 12:19 AM
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Timothy
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

Yes the smaller one is the horn relay. You might have damaged something... You could check and clean your connections. One at a time so you dont confuse anything. With the battery disconnected I might add. In doing so sometimes you might discover a problem, like a shorted wire. Even corrosion can stop the flow of electrons.

Anything more than that and it sounds like you need some "hands on" help. The wiring for these cars is not complex but certainly mysterious if you dont know what your doing.

My 69 RS/SS 396 Project -
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 07, 05:36 AM
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

You sound like a candidate for reading the "electrical basics sticky" https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71062 There's lot of good stuff in there.

As far as what I see right off the bat...
The horn relay won't function unless it is bolted down, it needs that ground.
The horn is an "active low" circuit. A ground on the black wire triggers the relay to blow the horn.

What you described in post 3 sounds like your tail light housings are not grounding to the body. This is common on a freshly painted car.

The lighter probably has a bad element, or possibly a loose connection or bad ground (if thye painted both the front and back sides of the dash..)





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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 07, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Jason
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

JimM - Thank you for pointing to the Sticky about elex basics. Believe it or not, I had actually read it before I started - clearly, by my sparky antics, I didn't get all of it though.

At $100/hr local Hawaii rates, I refuse to pay someone to do anything I can do myself - I am intelligent enough for this, just inexperienced, so thank you, Thank You in advance guys for not giving up on me here. If I can be walked through once, i'll get it.

Ok - so the Relay. Step by step, how do I prove this "good"? Is it...
1) Bolt the horn relay (the smaller of the two boxes attached to the fwd bulkhead) back onto the bulkhead, thus grounding it.
2) Touch a grounded (engine block, etc) wire to the black wire on the horn relay. (Which black wire? the thick one that it permanently attached,(10 gauge, right?) or the thinner "quick disconnect" plug-in one)
3) The relay should "click" if working.
Is this correct?

If someone out there was patient enough to walk me (and future n00b's who read this) through in this manner, I would nail it. Heck, maybe then the "For Dummies" franchise would hire us on!

So, in like fashion, how do you directly force the horn to sound, thus bypassing the relay and proving the elecromagnetic horn good or bad?

Thanks again fellahs,
Jb

Plain Jane 67 w/ Original 327/210.
Mods: 3spd Saginaw now a PowerGlide. 2bbl Rochester now a Holley 4bbl (4160). Hardened Valve Seats. 133k Miles. Everything else is original. Family car since 1968!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 07, 10:09 AM
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Jim
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

You might also look at the "what it is Where it is sticky. This goes into the horn relay in depth, with pictures.

To bypass everything and blow the horn, put power on the green wire that plugs into the horn relay. Old horns are often bad.

The horn relay performs 2 functions. It blows the horn, yes, but it is also the main junction block for the entire electrivcal system.
ANY AND ALL wires attached to the screw terminals are part of this junction block system, nothing to do with blowing the horns. These big wires are connected directly to the battery, and messing with them can SMOKE your car!

look here: https://www.camaros.net/techref/elect...horn_relay.htm





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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 07, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Jason
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

Horn update.

I just removed the black quick disconnect plug wire from the horn relay and touched a grounded wire to it - the Horn Sounded.

So, I know I have obviously proved my horn is good. What of my relay - the horn is so loud, I cant hear if the relay is clicking. Did I just prove my relay good as well, or did this process bypass the relay.

Thank you

Plain Jane 67 w/ Original 327/210.
Mods: 3spd Saginaw now a PowerGlide. 2bbl Rochester now a Holley 4bbl (4160). Hardened Valve Seats. 133k Miles. Everything else is original. Family car since 1968!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 07, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Jason
 
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

As posted elsewhere, just wanted to let you all know I figured out the horn issue. Corrosion in the horn button assy.

Have blinkers back.

Still no Hazards, Radio power, AC (aftermarket) or Cigarette Lighter.

Does anyone know if there are two flasher relays in the 67 like the 69? The one under and to the left of the steering column is removed but turn signals still work. ?!

How does one test these little two prong flasher cans to see if they are working?

Thank you!
Mahalo.

Plain Jane 67 w/ Original 327/210.
Mods: 3spd Saginaw now a PowerGlide. 2bbl Rochester now a Holley 4bbl (4160). Hardened Valve Seats. 133k Miles. Everything else is original. Family car since 1968!
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 07, 10:20 AM
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

there should be a flasher for the turn signals and another for the hazard lights. the fuse panel has a flasher and the other one is mounted to a small bracket under the dash where your right knee is when you sit in the drivers seat. just look under there and you should see it. the flashers are really inexpensive; i'd just get two fresh ones and see what happens.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 07, 10:28 AM
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Re: The following electrical items don't work...something in common to all?

The flasher on the fuse block is for your flashers. The one under the dash by your radio is for your blinkers. I have had a problem with my blinkers since I have owned my car ( 27 years ) and decided to add Marquez tail lights and then had problems with the lights. It was the original relay. Replaced the relay and they work fine now. They make 2 different relays for our cars. One is a factory type and the other is heavy duty. They are cheap. Buy one and just replace it. The heavy duty type is usually used when you add more lights to the curcuit ie: trailer lights.

Mike
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