Temp gauge problem - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 08, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Question Temp gauge problem

When I pull the headlights on, my temp gauge goes up to a warmer reading. What could be the problem?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 08, 02:24 PM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

Low alternator output with headlamps on?
Slipping belt?
High resistance, more than 1 ohm, of coolant sending body to engine block/alt case?

I'm open for more suggestions.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 08, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp gauge problem

Everett, headlamps on. You nailed it. Low alternator output. I am gonna get some flack, but the restored voltage reg is to blame, I am betting. Thanks. John Pirkle gets it see it now.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 08, 09:14 PM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

"here he comes to save the day!!!"

Nice Everett, real nice.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 04:36 AM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

Make it easy on yourself and get a Wells VR715 reg and swapout the guts to keep your dated chassis and top, or not.

Thanks, Harley.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 06:35 AM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

Gary;
I gave up too on my original 8J 515 regulator when i did a check on it just two days ago, it was pumping out 15.55 volts lights/everything on, 16.85 no acc. Tried to adjust no go! Pulled the cover off put it on my new VR715 and voila no issues constant 13.95-14.5 no matter what i turn on off etc..
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp gauge problem

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Originally Posted by VI018DZ View Post
Gary;
I gave up too on my original 8J 515 regulator when i did a check on it just two days ago, it was pumping out 15.55 volts lights/everything on, 16.85 no acc. Tried to adjust no go! Pulled the cover off put it on my new VR715 and voila no issues constant 13.95-14.5 no matter what i turn on off etc..
Todd
I hear ya'all. I am going to let John Pirkle look at it. The VR715 guts will go back into the original chassis? On second though if it is totally the same otherwise why not?. Todd, keep the original and have John Pirkle look at it!

One other thing. Maybe it is the original rebuilt alternator. I need to verify that also.

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Last edited by Gary L; Jan 2nd, 08 at 01:14 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 05:25 PM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

Gary, the vr715 is fifteen dollars at autozone. Just buy one and try it. It don't fix it put it ina box somewhere. I don't think you can swap the base, but you can for sure swap the cover. It's a good product and works very well. It cannot make an old style 61 amp alternator hold 13 volts at idle with the headlights on though.





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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp gauge problem

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Originally Posted by JimM View Post
Gary, the vr715 is fifteen dollars at autozone. Just buy one and try it. It don't fix it put it ina box somewhere. I don't think you can swap the base, but you can for sure swap the cover. It's a good product and works very well. It cannot make an old style 61 amp alternator hold 13 volts at idle with the headlights on though.
I will stop and look at one tonight. Are ya sure it can't hold 13V when ya have to idle at 950-1000 RPM?

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 05:43 PM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

Gary I started disassembly of my dated regulator. I will use it with a new VR715 mated to it. No more mechanical regulators for me. John is the one who I purched this one from. But now that I've molested it I can't send it back. I'm just fine with that.

Todd

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 06:08 PM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

mine won't. 14 volts all the time with the headlights off. Voltmeter needle flashes with the turn signals at idle tho. Headlights on, about 12.5 volts at 650 rpm idle, back up to 14 at maybe 1200.

Some may work better than mine. It's original, I just took it apart and cleaned the commutator and bearings, and checked the diodes.

The voltage changes don't affect my guages (autometer) they don't even affect the wideband.

One thing you could try... with the headlights on, turn the dash dimmer so the dash lights go off. If the temp gauge changes, you might check your grounds on the console pod.





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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 08, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp gauge problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by VI018DZ View Post
Gary I started disassembly of my dated regulator. I will use it with a new VR715 mated to it. No more mechanical regulators for me. John is the one who I purched this one from. But now that I've molested it I can't send it back. I'm just fine with that.

Todd
Can you post a picture? I wonder if Pirkle can do the conversion?

Jim, I do get a funny jump on the temp gage at times at road speed. I think it may be two problems.

"Government is not reason; it is not eloquent; it is force. Like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master." ..... George Washington

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 08, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Temp gauge problem

OK, I used my old regulator. It can do 13V at idle (950 RPM) and about 13.7 at fast idle (2000 RPM). But when I turn my headights on at road speed the the temp gauge still goes up. Have to check ground connections. How does the body ground if it sits on rubber? Ground screw at console, ground screw at passenger fender by the battery. Where else?

"Government is not reason; it is not eloquent; it is force. Like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master." ..... George Washington

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 08, 04:29 PM
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Re: Temp gauge problem

There are separate grounds for the console gauges, front half and back half, that's the first place I'd look.

The engine grounds with the big ned battery cable. There is also a smaller wire on the neg battery cable, which grounds the body by connecting to the inner fender.

AM radio cars have some extra ground straps, they vary by year, and mine are not correct, but they connect the engine to the firewall. Detailed in the AIM.





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