still no start... - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 08, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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still no start...

i have been having an ignition start problem for some time now , my ACC position works along with my forward Run position on the key but when i push forward to the start position nothing happens. the neutral safety has been eliminated by the previous owner. i traced the starter switch wire all the way inside the car and tested it, everything fine. the starter is brand new and the seleniod is fine along with a new ignition switch. im just not sure where else to look.
thanks
ryan
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 08, 05:50 PM
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Re: still no start...

Check the switch on top of the column. There is a post about it on this. It is in this same section / electrical

EDIT: Man look down below on your other post. I told you what to look for. Did you do it ?????

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 08, 05:53 PM
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Re: still no start...

what year you talking about. and also at the switch does it get power when you turn key to start.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 08, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: still no start...

i did adjust the switch an i also replaced it.
the switch does get power in all positions
1981 camaro
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 08, 07:53 PM
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Re: still no start...

Have you tried the old screwdriver across the starter trick? Or, you can use a remote starter to do the same... Plus, run a continuity check on the wire running from switch to starter. This still sounds like a nss problem. I am assuming this is a floor shift automatic. With car in park, Grab the lower steering column and try to rotate it counter-clockwise, then try to start the car ...
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 11:13 AM
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Re: still no start...

Yes the floor shifter rod could be out of adjustment. Does it have the factory shifter in it. On the steering colummn by the motor at the very bottom of column should be a rod connected to the shifter. You might have to adjust it. Did you try removing the switch and take a screw driver add slide it to different positions and see if it would start. Make sure your car is in park when you do this. If it starts then the switch is OK and something else is out of adjustment. Like sdtsdt said try to turn the lower part of the column. It might not turn enough if the rod /shifter is hooked to it.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 11:16 AM
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Re: still no start...

The way to adjust it is to loosen the rod on the column. Put the shifter in park. Turn the lower part of the column counter clockwise. Try to start your car. If it starts then tighten the rod back up. You might have to pull up a little on the column coupling to get in the right spot. Trial and error

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: still no start...

the car does not have the stock shifter in it or engine, the shifter connects directly to the transmition with a cable it is a B&M shifter. there is no electronic connection thru the transmission at all. a remote starter will work, thats what i have been having to use to get it started latley.
thanks
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 03:53 PM
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Re: still no start...

Did you (1) Do a continuity test on the wire from switch to starter?
Did you(2) Try rotating the steering column.

Just because you have shifter directly connected does not mean that
old wiring/Neutral Safety switch has been disabled. I think this is your problem.

If you want to circumvent all of this, run a new crank wire from the switch
to the starter. If the car starts with a remote starter, then what has to be happening is that your crank wire is not energizing the starter. The crank wire runs through the NSS. If you replace the wire , make sure you use the proper gauge wire.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: still no start...

the starter switch runs all the way from the starter into the firewall and to the ignition switch, there is a wire connector that connects a purple wire to the red starter switch wire, a link. then the purple wire goes into the ignition switch. thats the best i can explain it. could i just run one wire to the starter switch from the ignition switch?
would you also explain just exactly how to adjust the steering coulomb?
thanks
ryan
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 05:40 PM
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Re: still no start...

You replaced the switch. Try turning the lower bottom of the column when sitting in the seat. You should be able to turn it a couple of inches. Does the key come out of the ignition easy??

Mike
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: still no start...

the key will come out of the ignition fine and easy when in the off position. what do u mean by sitting in the seat and rotating the column? with the wheel? please explain...
and also how could i completly eliminate my saftey switch if i do indeed have this proublem? could i just run one wire from the starter switch to the ignition switch?
thanks for the help
ryan
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 07:23 PM
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Re: still no start...

Quote:
Originally Posted by monstersk8 View Post
the starter switch runs all the way from the starter into the firewall and to the ignition switch, there is a wire connector that connects a purple wire to the red starter switch wire, a link. then the purple wire goes into the ignition switch. thats the best i can explain it. could i just run one wire to the starter switch from the ignition switch?
Ryan, when you start the car with the remote starter, you connect the remote starter to the post that connects the cable from the battery and you connect the 2nd end to a smaller terminal. The purple wire should be connecting to this same small terminal that you are connecting remote starter to.

A continuity test is a test where you use a multimeter or ohm meter to test the path of a circuit. It lets you know that path exist from point a to point b. This is not a visual test. It is a circuit test. For example, if you had a piece of wire with a fuse holder in it. It there is a fuse in the holder and you connect the ohm meter to both ends of the wire, you will see the scale give a numeric reading and it may actually show all zeros.
Zeroes ar egood in this case. Now, if you remove the fuse and test the same 2 ends of wire, your meter will not give you a reading, because, by removing the fuse, you have broken the path. I suggest you do a continuity test on your starter wire to make sure that the path is not broken. If you are wondering how to test both ends of this circuit, you use an additional wire to make a long jumper . If money is tight, you can get a small multi-meter at Harbor Freight for $5. It may sound cheap, but it will do a continuity and a volt test.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 07:27 PM
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Re: still no start...

Quote:
Originally Posted by monstersk8 View Post
the key will come out of the ignition fine and easy when in the off position. what do u mean by sitting in the seat and rotating the column? with the wheel? please explain...
thanks for the help
ryan

Reach past the steering wheel, closer to where the column goes under the dash. Just grab the body with both hands and turn counter clockwise.

Look past the ignition switch and you will see a circle , sort of like where 2 parts meet or mate. You are turning the part closer to the dash.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 08, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: still no start...

the test i did was i took the starter wire that goes to the starter switch and hooked it to the positive on the battery and used a light tester from inside the car to the spot where the wire goes on the ignition switch grounded it out and it lit up, though like i said there is a purple wire that also connects to my red starter wire closer to the switch this does not go to the starter the red one does. could i just run one wire to the starter switch from the ignition switch? what does this purple wire do, if its not going to my starter switch and the red one is?
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