11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Bob
 
MileHigh69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Littleton, Co.
Posts: 516
11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

My car wont start. I dont have spark. My power lead to the distributor is read 11.60 volts. I replaced all but 10 inchs of the resistor wire a while back. Ran a 12 or 14 gage wire to it. Is this normal voltage for a car that is not running? Any other thoughts on why the car wont start. Obviously it is ignition?

_______________________________
69 Camaro, Air Ride Suspension,
Procharged HO 454, 700R4, 12 bolt with Yukon axles, 3:73 gears posi, Pypes 2.5" X pipe with Borla XS mufflers. Retrotek Speed EFI, Ridetech suspension.
Rushforth rated X with Toyo tires. MSD 6 ignition.
Wilwood 6 piston Dynalite disc brakes with Hydratech booster.
MileHigh69 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 04:18 PM
Gold Lifetime Member
Harry
 
dawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Colebrook CT.
Posts: 4,024
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

I bet your joint is bad youll have to solder the power wire again.
using those cheap squish type splices will corrode over time.
what are you getting for voltage on the - side of the coil/
mine doesnt have any voltage going to it not running in the off or accesory position
I get 12.5 in run (same as voltage on the battery)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

434 stroker
US Navy retired

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
dawg is offline  
post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 05:25 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Did you attempt to solder a wire to the old terminal? If so, you probably have a bad connection there. Despite what others say, my advice is to not solder the connection. Get a new connector and crimp it. Solder doesn't adhere to brass very well.

To find out if you're losing voltage, measure from the coil hot to the battery + post. You should see less than 0.01 volts or so. Then measure from the distributor body to the battery - post. Again, you should see less than 0.01 volts.

You didn't say what your battery voltage was when you read 11.6 at the coil. 11.6 should be high enough to generate a good spark. But if you have a resistive connection, when the ignition module closes the circuit with the coil, your voltage may be dropping much farther causing a no spark condition.

A typical fully charged battery at rest should give you at least 12.0 volts. If that is the case with yours, you're loosing 0.4 volts somewhere. That's a sign of a poor connection somewhere.

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
dnult is offline  
 
post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Bob
 
MileHigh69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Littleton, Co.
Posts: 516
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

I did replace the plastic splice connector with a soldered connection. I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor. I also replaced the electronic module inside of the cap recently. Any other ideas? Could it be the coil or a ground problem? Oh yah my battery voltage is 12 volts . I still have about 1 foot of that resistance wire in the wire.

_______________________________
69 Camaro, Air Ride Suspension,
Procharged HO 454, 700R4, 12 bolt with Yukon axles, 3:73 gears posi, Pypes 2.5" X pipe with Borla XS mufflers. Retrotek Speed EFI, Ridetech suspension.
Rushforth rated X with Toyo tires. MSD 6 ignition.
Wilwood 6 piston Dynalite disc brakes with Hydratech booster.
MileHigh69 is offline  
post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 06:16 PM
Super Moderator
Bess-68's rule
 
Everett#2390's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Va Beach VA
Posts: 31,661
Garage
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

You might coil back and insulate the existing wire and run a new 12AWG from the IGN spade on the fusebox just for giggles.

Yes, it is hard to solder to an OE nickle-plated wire, brazing is the key.

Give a man a rescued dog for the health of both their souls. May 2017 ROTM Winner - Thank you!
'
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CUBS - 2016 World Series Champions - Thank you, Joe Madden … enjoy your next chapter.
Everett#2390 is offline  
post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Bob
 
MileHigh69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Littleton, Co.
Posts: 516
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

I think I have enough voltage at the distributor unless someone tells me otherwise. When I crank the engine over it doesn't even fire once in a while. Just nothing. Tells me it is not a spark plug or spark plug wire. Need to get it fixed to bring it in for alignment Saturday. Any other ideas? I may run a wire from the fuse panel to the power connector. Which lug on the fuse box would I attach it to? I ran a separate wire from the fuse box and it measured the same voltage at the other end. What else can go wrong inside the distributor?

_______________________________
69 Camaro, Air Ride Suspension,
Procharged HO 454, 700R4, 12 bolt with Yukon axles, 3:73 gears posi, Pypes 2.5" X pipe with Borla XS mufflers. Retrotek Speed EFI, Ridetech suspension.
Rushforth rated X with Toyo tires. MSD 6 ignition.
Wilwood 6 piston Dynalite disc brakes with Hydratech booster.

Last edited by MileHigh69; Feb 13th, 08 at 07:19 PM.
MileHigh69 is offline  
post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 07:18 PM
Tech Team
Rodney
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Montgomery City MO.
Posts: 86
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Have you checked the pick-up coil in side the distributor? I have seen the wires break inside the dist. between the pick up and moduale

Rodney Colbert 70 Chevelle SS Real L-78 4-speeed 68 Camaro RS/SS 350HP 396 400 turbo red with black top red interior AC PS PB 12 bolt posi #s Matching
67 Malibu ragtop 327/glide
7DL78 is offline  
post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 08, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Bob
 
MileHigh69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Littleton, Co.
Posts: 516
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

I am not sure what it looks like. Is it connected to the C shaped electronics module? Thats about the only other thing inside the distributor? Correct
One other idea. what if the ignition was to far advanced?

_______________________________
69 Camaro, Air Ride Suspension,
Procharged HO 454, 700R4, 12 bolt with Yukon axles, 3:73 gears posi, Pypes 2.5" X pipe with Borla XS mufflers. Retrotek Speed EFI, Ridetech suspension.
Rushforth rated X with Toyo tires. MSD 6 ignition.
Wilwood 6 piston Dynalite disc brakes with Hydratech booster.

Last edited by MileHigh69; Feb 13th, 08 at 08:38 PM.
MileHigh69 is offline  
post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 08, 03:16 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 21
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Did you verify that thr rotor button is turning, possible broken roll pin on distributor drive gear.
crane doc is offline  
post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 08, 03:25 AM
Super Moderator
Bess-68's rule
 
Everett#2390's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Va Beach VA
Posts: 31,661
Garage
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Nice ride, very nice ride. You might check timing while you have another cranking to check timing and see if you have spark, timing light will flash.

Inside the dist cap, you will see the module, the C-shaped item. The pick-up is the device around the shaft in the middle of the plate. Coil resistance is usually 1K-1.5K. You said you changed the module, did you smear all of the dielectric grease on the bottom of the module? Very important to do so, it provides a path for cooling the module.

With 11.6 V at the end of the wire, voltage may not be there in the START position of the key. The ign switch may have burnt contacts and replacement may be the next step. Fortunately, the switch is at the top of the column just above the brake pedal and not in the dash. Just thinking here, you might need to adjust the switch at the column to make contact when in the START position.

Usually, HEI's are infallible. To get another source of power during ign, look at the fusebox and look for the single/labelled spade IGN on the far right of the box. As I suggested before, run a wire from this IGN terminal.

Let us know what happens.

Give a man a rescued dog for the health of both their souls. May 2017 ROTM Winner - Thank you!
'
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CUBS - 2016 World Series Champions - Thank you, Joe Madden … enjoy your next chapter.
Everett#2390 is offline  
post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 08, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Bob
 
MileHigh69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Littleton, Co.
Posts: 516
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Everett #2390
You may be onto something. Is this switch sense the brake pedal position also. There is a switch on the column attached to the brake pedal. This is the only switch looking device I noticed on the column near the brake. One other thing I noticed. When I turn the engine over the tach is reading normal then bounces up to 2K to 3K RPM. Obviously the motor is not turning over this high. Is this normal?

With 11.6 V at the end of the wire, voltage may not be there in the START position of the key. The ign switch may have burnt contacts and replacement may be the next step. Fortunately, the switch is at the top of the column just above the brake pedal and not in the dash. Just thinking here, you might need to adjust the switch at the column to make contact when in the START position.

Usually, HEI's are infallible. To get another source of power during ign, look at the fusebox and look for the single/labelled spade IGN on the far right of the box. As I suggested before, run a wire from this IGN terminal.

Let us know what happens.[/QUOTE]

_______________________________
69 Camaro, Air Ride Suspension,
Procharged HO 454, 700R4, 12 bolt with Yukon axles, 3:73 gears posi, Pypes 2.5" X pipe with Borla XS mufflers. Retrotek Speed EFI, Ridetech suspension.
Rushforth rated X with Toyo tires. MSD 6 ignition.
Wilwood 6 piston Dynalite disc brakes with Hydratech booster.

Last edited by MileHigh69; Feb 14th, 08 at 05:50 PM.
MileHigh69 is offline  
post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 08, 07:41 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Get a test lamp and remove power from the distributor and substitute the test lamp. This will tell you if a load pulls down your 11.6 even lower. The ignition module won't load the circuit very much unless it's in the dwell cycle. If you have a bad connection, you can get near full voltage when there is no load and dang near zero volts when loaded. The test lamp should give you a better indication of how healthy the power feed really is.

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
dnult is offline  
post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 08, 03:14 AM
Super Moderator
Bess-68's rule
 
Everett#2390's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Va Beach VA
Posts: 31,661
Garage
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHigh69 View Post
Everett #2390
You may be onto something. Is this switch sense the brake pedal position also. There is a switch on the column attached to the brake pedal. This is the only switch looking device I noticed on the column near the brake.
No, the ignition switch, the electrical part of it, is bolted to the top of the column and long in length, about four inches maybe. Ign switch would be between the brake switch you found and the steering column clamp to the bottom of the dash.
Quote:
One other thing I noticed. When I turn the engine over the tach is reading normal then bounces up to 2K to 3K RPM. Obviously the motor is not turning over this high. Is this normal?
No, troubleshoot the ign power wire using a test light as dnult suggested. Should be relatively bright when cranking.

Give a man a rescued dog for the health of both their souls. May 2017 ROTM Winner - Thank you!
'
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CUBS - 2016 World Series Champions - Thank you, Joe Madden … enjoy your next chapter.
Everett#2390 is offline  
post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 08, 08:53 AM
Matt
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mt. Prospect, IL
Posts: 22
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by MileHigh69 View Post
I still have about 1 foot of that resistance wire in the wire.
That is not the correct way to do it. The wire may show voltage when there is no load, but will decrease under load.

Hook the BAT wire directly to the + battery post and she if she'll fire.

You can buy a pre-made wire that snaps right into the bulkhead, and is very easy to install.


****EDIT***

What distributor are you running? My post assumes HEI.

Matt

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by bochnak; Feb 15th, 08 at 08:59 AM. Reason: More info
bochnak is offline  
post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 08, 11:38 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
Re: 11.6 Volts at the distributor power wire

1 foot is a bit on the long side, but it should still work. I don't recall what the factory resistance wire resistance is. I think it's something like 2 ohms. There was about 6' of wire in the harness so that would be something like .33 ohms per foot. I'd prefer less, but that shouldn't prevent the car from running reasonably well.

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
dnult is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome