Courtesy light circuit battle - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 08, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Courtesy light circuit battle

I've been fighting a long ongoing battle to find the source of the voltage drain in my courtesy light circuit. (I know the problem is in this circuit because the test light stops glowing when I pull the fuse to this circuit). This problem causes the battery to drain in a matter of hours and it's driving me crazy!

I know the components on this circuit include:
- dome light - (works ok)
- console light - (works ok)
- door switches - (checked ok)
- ignition switch buzzer (replaced)
- cigarette lighter - (unplugged, still drains batt.)

I've tried to eliminate each of these items one at a time. So my next thought is to inspect the fuse panel and replace ALL fuses. If that doesn't work, I thought I would start replacing the lower cost items first like the door switches, then the dome light harness, etc.

Spring is coming and I would like to be able to drive the car without fear that it won't start if I go somewhere. Any suggestions on what I should try to replace first?

Thanks,
Mark
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 08, 09:00 AM
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Glovebox?
Trunk light?

View car at night to see the light.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 08, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Nope, No glove box, trunk , underdash lights or even an operational radio. Just the basics. I could take the easy way out and install a battery disconnect switch but, I don't like the idea of constantly having to cut the power off if I'm going to park for more than a few minutes.

Speaking of radios, there is a non-functioning Oldsmobile AM radio in the car right now. (It was in the car when I got it) I haven't looked closely at that dead radio for this problem. The radio is supposed to be on it's own circuit right?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 08, 07:38 PM
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

The radio should be on it's own circuit, unless someone did some creative wiring.

Don't worry about the door switches, they're not the problem, or at least not unless the dome light is on.

The orange wire is the one you're worried about. Start disconnecting stuff. Pull the dome light bulb. Disconnect the console harness. Disconnect the dome light harness, it's by the e brake somewhere. disconnect the lighter.





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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 08, 05:34 AM
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Replacing fuses will not get you anywhere, like Jim said you've got to start disconnecting (and leaving disconnected) until you find the problem. I see you're using a light, but if you have an ammeter in series with the batt that would be much better, you could tell the seriousness of the draw.

I would start from the basics - unplug alternator - starter - buss wire - fuse panel - there are many places on these old cars that rust/corrosion can form a permanent path to ground from a + source.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 08, 11:05 AM
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Quote:
Originally Posted by chops View Post
...I see you're using a light, but if you have an ammeter in series with the batt that would be much better, you could tell the seriousness of the draw...
That is as long as the draw doesn't exceed the fuse rating of the ammeter. There is nothing more frustrating than to have to repair your equipment in the middle of repairing the vehicle. Test lamps sound low tech, but the self regulating properties of the bulb make it worth while.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 08, 02:12 PM
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnult View Post
That is as long as the draw doesn't exceed the fuse rating of the ammeter.
Very true statement, however if I suspected high current I would still drop a shunt across the meter and use it, or even use an old ammeter guage.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 08, 07:28 PM
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Quote:
Originally Posted by chops View Post
I would start from the basics - unplug alternator - starter - buss wire - fuse panel - there are many places on these old cars that rust/corrosion can form a permanent path to ground from a + source.
I think he's all ready determined that removing the CLK-CTY-LTR fuse removes the draw.





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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 08, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Thanks for the tips...I will try to check these things out. Jim, you are correct, I have pulled the fuse to the CTY circuit and the test light goes out. I have pulled the orange power wire to the cig. lighter, still drawing current.

I will try Everett's suggestion about viewing the dome/console lights at night to see if there is a faint glow in the interior lights. Will also take a close look at that old dead radio to make sure it's not shorting out somewhere.

Does the CTY circuit have a main connector somewhere under the dash that I can unplug to help isolate things even more?


I'm a novice when it comes to car electrical stuff, so please keep the ideas coming.

Thanks all....
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 08, 04:30 AM
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Re: Courtesy light circuit battle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Granny's 69 View Post
Does the CTY circuit have a main connector somewhere under the dash that I can unplug to help isolate things even more? Thanks all....
The supply lead for the courtesy lighting is behind the fuse panel, the socket terminal for the fuse.

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