New thread ..Votage drop... - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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New thread ..Votage drop...

I figured I'd start a tread on this problem now. Instead the battery relocate thread. Recap...

Finished up! Not sure what happened though... At idle I have my 12.54v and won't go up untill I hit the gas. As soon as I touch it the volts go right up. If I turn the lights and wipers on at idle my volts go to around 11.7 then touch the gas and goes right to 14 or so.??????.... I ran 4ga from the alt to the batt and from the batt to the distribution block. Total runs were around 18 feet each way. From what I've been reading it looks like I went too small..Grrr. I may be fine for 60 amp alt but what if I upgrade to 130? I hope I'll be fine. I may try a smaller pulley on the alt. Right now I have a 2 3/4" and a 7" crank. I might try a 2" and see what happens. Any other suggestions?



Everett#2309
Ext reg alt? System working normal. By its design, the Delcotron was the hot ticket. The mech reg has too much swing. You can adjust them up to 14.8 VDC with only engine running at 1800-2000 rpm, but turn on headlamps, heater, wipers, and idle, voltage is around battery, 12.5 VDC at best. Give rpm, and it boosts up.

Measure voltage drop from BAT @ alt to battery post, s/b less than 0.4 V., stud to stud/post.

If using a good quality DMM, zero the meter first. Use the length of wire you chose to get to the other end of the car and select DC volts on the meter. Take the length of wire and the other meter lead and hold the ends together. Meter will indicate some voltage under a volt. Watch the meter count down to zero, may take a minute or two. As soon as zero is obtained, measure voltage drop of power cable.

Before doing anything drastic, such as changing pulley, change mech regulator for a Wells P/N VR715 regulator and tell us the results.

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

Some update. My drop from the batt to the alt was good. I have the wells regulator. I ended up changing the pulley from a 2.75 to 2.55. Voltage drop from the alt ( 14.55V) at batt ( 14.30) to the terminal block was .35 Volts. I have a steady 14.20v at the terminal block now at 800rpm. Here's whats happening now. This just may be lask of alt with the length of wire.

At terminal block under hood at idle 14.20v
With brights on 12.75
With wipers 12.20
with heater 11.7

I would like a steady say 14v at idle with acc on. I can see fans are out right now. Whats needed?

1968 Camaro Convertible ,350 TWIN TURBO , PTC 3000 stall, Hotchkis TVS kit / Subframe connectors, Caltracs, 9" rear, Street Star wheels (P275/40ZR17 / P235/45/17) , Electric cutouts. [B] .....FOR SALE.....

Last edited by mnm99; Nov 15th, 08 at 06:24 AM.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 09:38 AM
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

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I would like a steady say 14v at idle with acc on. I can see fans are out right now. Whats needed?
You will need to install a three wire alternator with the reference line tied to your main power distribution point.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

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Originally Posted by onovakind67 View Post
You will need to install a three wire alternator with the reference line tied to your main power distribution point.

Any wire diagram pictures? What alternator?

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 10:01 AM
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

Marc, I agree with what onavakind said, however using a 61 amp alternator, external regulator, and stock regulator wiring, you all ready have that. The sense wire is connected to the main splice, in the harness near the regulator.

What you are seeing is normal.

That alternator cannot hold 14 plus volts at idle with the lights on. It just won't do it. Mine is exactly the same way, has been for years Perfectly normal, and my battery is always fully charged, alternator can keep up no problem.

The electric fans are out no doubt, but they are out with a 60 amp anyway.





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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

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Marc, I agree with what onavakind said, however using a 61 amp alternator, external regulator, and stock regulator wiring, you all ready have that. The sense wire is connected to the main splice, in the harness near the regulator.

What you are seeing is normal.

That alternator cannot hold 14 plus volts at idle with the lights on. It just won't do it. Mine is exactly the same way, has been for years Perfectly normal, and my battery is always fully charged, alternator can keep up no problem.

The electric fans are out no doubt, but they are out with a 60 amp anyway.

Everett metioned a CS130. Should I just do it and stop troubleshooting? You have any wire diagrams off hand for it?

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 10:14 AM
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

Ditto as Jim. Normal for the setup.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 11:17 AM
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

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Originally Posted by mnm99 View Post
Everett metioned a CS130. Should I just do it and stop troubleshooting? You have any wire diagrams off hand for it?
There are a couple of articles on later model alternator swaps in the electrical basics sticky.

You can also purchase new high output external regulator alternators, I believe summit has them, 100 amps and higher, and a boltin with no changes at all.

Until or unless your current system can't keep up with the load, you really don't have a problem that needs to be addressed.





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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM View Post
There are a couple of articles on later model alternator swaps in the electrical basics sticky.

You can also purchase new high output external regulator alternators, I believe summit has them, 100 amps and higher, and a boltin with no changes at all.

Until or unless your current system can't keep up with the load, you really don't have a problem that needs to be addressed.
Thanks Jim. I'm gonna leave it the way it is for now. The only thing that bothers me is the dim dash lights when the headlights go on. Other than that I'll look into the upgrade when I get the fans. The way I am that will be tommorrow..LOL

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 01:08 PM
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

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Originally Posted by mnm99 View Post
The only thing that bothers me is the dim dash lights when the headlights go on.
You can get brighter bulbs for the dash lights. The standard bulbs are type 194, 4 watt. There is a 7 watt bayonet base bulb readily available, usually on the shelf at most auto parts stores, number is 4 digits, starts with a 2, I'll try to remember to post it again when I get home.

EDIT: and yes, before the inevitable questions start, I have had them in my dash for 5 years. They have not burned out, the dimmer still works fine, and nothing has melted.





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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

I'll look into the dash bulbs.
Hey..What do you think of the headlight relay wireing? Would this benefit me either way with this alt or a new one? From what i'm reading will my lights still dim this way using the same alt? Wondering if it's worth the trouble.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 01:47 PM
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

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Wondering if it's worth the trouble.
Real easy to find out. The headlight relay will reduce any voltage drop in the wiring and switch.

To check how much voltage drop you have:
Start the engine and turn on the headlights.
put 1 voltmeter lead on one of the screws on the horn relay.
Stick the other in the back of the headlight wiring socket (try both wires, see which "reads anything"
Your reading is the voltage drop to the headlights. Ideally it will be near zero.





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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

I tried it with the car off. It's in the garage and pouring outside. Drops will fall on the hood..LOL Anyway

Voltage at batt in trunk = 12.57v
Voltage at relay with lights off = 12.54v
Voltage at relay with lights on = 11.72v
Voltage at lights = 10.07v
Reading at light to relay looks like -1.20 ?? Doing it that way reads the voltage drop? I guess it would make sense. Would doing the relays help with the dimming of the dash too?

1968 Camaro Convertible ,350 TWIN TURBO , PTC 3000 stall, Hotchkis TVS kit / Subframe connectors, Caltracs, 9" rear, Street Star wheels (P275/40ZR17 / P235/45/17) , Electric cutouts. [B] .....FOR SALE.....

Last edited by mnm99; Feb 26th, 08 at 05:26 PM.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 04:38 PM
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

Then hooking up a relay for your headlights would make them 10% brighter.

And yes, if your dash lights are noticeably dimmer with the headlights on than they are with the parking lights on, the relay would help that too.





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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 08, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: New thread ..Votage drop...

Ugggg here goes another project.........

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