Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge. - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

I have the electrical temp gauge I've been trying to hook up.
Even sent it back to a.m. for them to check out, came back they say "no problems"

When it's hooked up, on a room temp engine,
just turning the key to "on" It jumps to read 125 degrees. Engine not even started yet.

Start car, and within 2 minutes it reads 250 & pegs full hot. (obviously wrong)

Called a.m. a few mins ago, they say make sure gauge has at least 12+ volts to the gauge. It does.
Tech at a.m. says to make sure has good ground, it does, I even directly wired the ground to the neg batt post to see if any difference. No difference.
New sender, even installed the replacement sender, (sender #2) they gave me when I got the gauge back from them checking it out.

What gives? How hard should this be?

About to shelf it & get a mech gauge & be done with it, & me out a $40 lesson.

Any ideas?

- John
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'67 V8 Camaro - 12637, 797-Z (Parchment), M-M (Royal Plum), 2M, 3K, 5Y
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 12:34 PM
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

John - Are you using any thread sealer/teflon tape on the sender? It could be messing with things...

...Dennis

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

At first I did, then did a search on here and that idea was mentioned, so I didn't re- use the same fittings when the gauge came back, meaning, new fittings with no sealer. Same results.

- John
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 01:47 PM
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

Are you connecting the gauge to a temp switch or sender?

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackoutSteve View Post
Are you connecting the gauge to a temp switch or sender?
Sender.
Same one that was in the a.m. box.
They sent me a replacement one when my gauge came back, same style unit- to rule out a bad sender.

- John
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 05:26 PM
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

OK, start with the basics...

Did you read 12V + with a digital volt meter, and where is the 12v source coming from exactly? Does this 12v reading vary from cold to hot?

Ground? You check with the same DVM? Where is the source for the ground exactly?


Sender. Read cold with DVM at sender, and again at the back of meter. Log.
Read hot with DVM at sender, and again at the back of the meter.Log.

Reply with results.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chops View Post
OK, start with the basics...

Did you read 12V + with a digital volt meter, and where is the 12v source coming from exactly? Does this 12v reading vary from cold to hot?

Ground? You check with the same DVM? Where is the source for the ground exactly?


Sender. Read cold with DVM at sender, and again at the back of meter. Log.
Read hot with DVM at sender, and again at the back of the meter.Log.

Reply with results.
Hi Greg,
Read with DVM. 12v is from the fuse panel marked gauges so I can dim the gauge lights along with the regular factory gauges. 12v is read at the 12v terminal at back of gauge. 12v power source for gauge is from the fuse panel, switched 12v.

Vary from cold to hot? I don't know. I'll have to get back with you on that.

Ground is checked with same DVM. Ground is on a bolt on firewall on inside, above pedals, still on tight, to the GND terminal on back of gauge..

Have to get back to you on the sender readings, gimme a day or so.....

- John
Misfit tortured soul. Lone wolf. Unicorn.
'67 V8 Camaro - 12637, 797-Z (Parchment), M-M (Royal Plum), 2M, 3K, 5Y

Last edited by Arch Stanton; May 14th, 08 at 06:30 PM. Reason: better describe the 12v "power" source, not lighting power source
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old May 14th, 08, 07:01 PM
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arch Stanton View Post
Read with DVM. 12v is from the fuse panel marked gauges so I can dim the gauge lights along with the regular factory gauges. 12v is read at the 12v terminal at back of gauge. 12v power source for gauge is from the fuse panel, switched 12v.
How bout clarifying this one a lil bit?

5 connections on an autometer electric gauge:
3 studs, 2 wire pigtails.
Stud1: Gauge power
Stud 2: Sender
Stud 3 Ground
Black wire: illumination lamp ground
White wire: Illumination lamp power

The grounds can be connected together, and then run to a solid ground screw on the cars dash structure.

Gauge power needs to go to the IGN FUSED circuit, it is the 3rd spade terminal from the top in the pic below.

The white wire needs to go to LAMPS, the second connection down. This one dims when you turn the headlight switch.

4 male spades in a 67 fuseblock, top to bottom:
ACC FUSED: on in RUN and ACC
LAMPS: on when headlight switch is on, variable output controlled by twisting the headlight switch knob.
IGN FUSED: on in RUN only
BAT FUSED: on all the time






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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old May 15th, 08, 08:26 AM
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

Not to pick nits, but saying you measured 12V makes me wonder if you measured it at all. For one thing, if the engine is running, 12V is about 2 volts too low. Give us a decimal point so we'll get a clear idea of what's going on.

As for the grounds, you need to measure voltage between the gauge ground and the sender ground (block). You should see nearly 0 volts (less that 0.05v). It's not uncommon for bad grounds to make your block look more negative than the ground the gauge is using. That can cause all sorts of weird behavior. Cudos for running a separate ground though - that is a good technique. We just have to figure out if the dash and block are nearly the same.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old May 15th, 08, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM View Post
How bout clarifying this one a lil bit?

5 connections on an autometer electric gauge:
3 studs, 2 wire pigtails.
Stud1: Gauge power
Stud 2: Sender
Stud 3 Ground
Black wire: illumination lamp ground
White wire: Illumination lamp power

The grounds can be connected together, and then run to a solid ground screw on the cars dash structure.

Gauge power needs to go to the IGN FUSED circuit, it is the 3rd spade terminal from the top in the pic below.

The white wire needs to go to LAMPS, the second connection down. This one dims when you turn the headlight switch.

4 male spades in a 67 fuseblock, top to bottom:
ACC FUSED: on in RUN and ACC
LAMPS: on when headlight switch is on, variable output controlled by twisting the headlight switch knob.
IGN FUSED: on in RUN only
BAT FUSED: on all the time

Hi Jim,
I'm sorry!
My bad!
I meant for gauge "power" its off of the IGN FUSED post. (stud 1) The lighting is off of LAMPS post. (white wire)
The second I saw the pic I hit my head and had to re-explain. Sorry 'bout that.
Black wire to screw underneath dash for lamp ground.
Stud 2 is hooked directly from sender to correct post on back of gauge.
Stud 3 ground was on a bolt, bolted to firewall on inside and bolted down tight. Now on a bolt on engine throttle return bracket. Tested this ground by taking wire from same post on back of gauge directly to batt neg. Same results.

This is wierd. It should be easy.

- John
Misfit tortured soul. Lone wolf. Unicorn.
'67 V8 Camaro - 12637, 797-Z (Parchment), M-M (Royal Plum), 2M, 3K, 5Y
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old May 15th, 08, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Argh! Auto Meter temp gauge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnult View Post
Not to pick nits, but saying you measured 12V makes me wonder if you measured it at all. For one thing, if the engine is running, 12V is about 2 volts too low. Give us a decimal point so we'll get a clear idea of what's going on.

As for the grounds, you need to measure voltage between the gauge ground and the sender ground (block). You should see nearly 0 volts (less that 0.05v). It's not uncommon for bad grounds to make your block look more negative than the ground the gauge is using. That can cause all sorts of weird behavior. Cudos for running a separate ground though - that is a good technique. We just have to figure out if the dash and block are nearly the same.
I'm going to try the gauge ground and sender ground, and see, that has me wondering too.

- John
Misfit tortured soul. Lone wolf. Unicorn.
'67 V8 Camaro - 12637, 797-Z (Parchment), M-M (Royal Plum), 2M, 3K, 5Y
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