Re: Help me build my stereo system!
Here are some pictures of my system.
Here are the doors:
Here is the trunk:
Here is the head unit. These are vidoes of the unit in motion:
The amps you can't see because they are bolted to a board bolted to the back seat divider. They are very powerful amps. One amp is a Rockford Fosgate X7 mono amp and the other is a Rockford Fosgate 750X 4 channel. All Rockford amps come with their version of a dyno sheet. It tells you the true output of the amp, not what they say it makes. As far as I know, Rockford is the company to do this and I have been around auto stereos for about 16 years. Most companies say their amps make 500watts, but they actually put out more like 200. The X7 makes 1667 and the 750X makes 993. The speaker in the dash has been removed and the rear speakers are MB Quart 6x9's. All the components are MB Quarts. There is a 1farad stiffening cap in the system and the power cable from the battery to the distribution block is 0 gauge. From the block, it goes to 2 gauge to the X7 and 4 gauge to the 750X. The ground cables are 2 gauge for both amps. The system hit 144.1 decibles at a contest.
Here are pictures of the dyno sheets for my amps.
If you look in the bottom left hand corner you can see the amp model number and the upper right hand corner is the actual power output.
You get what you pay for in the stereo industry. If you want your system to sound good, you need to spend a little money, but it will be worth it down the road. Better equipment lasts longer and produces better quality sound. If possible, buy amps with built in crossovers, but try to get a head unit that has crossovers in it as well. The more control over high pass and low pass you have, the more control over the overall sound you will have. Another thing for the head unit, the higher the preamp output voltage, the better the sound. When you are running your RCa cables, isolate them from ALL other wires, especially the power cables. RCA's pick up and amplify the slightest sound and it will be transmitted through your system as a high pitch wine that increases and decreases with RPM. Also, when you are running the cables for the amps, DO NOT use battery cable for power and ground. Automotive battery cable is thick strand cable. You need to use as thin a strand as you can find. If you want to protect you alternator, then you need a stiffening cap. It stores power in case your amp needs a sudden large amount. It pulls it from the cap and not the charging system. Then the alternator recharges the cap at a slower rate to protect it. Ground cables should be no longer than 15" and need to the same size as the amps power cable or larger. Use gold plated battery terminals and cable ends to transfer current as well as possible. For high power systems, use circuit breakers instead of fuses. I run a single 200 amp breaker on the inner fender shield. All your components should have their own crossovers. I don't want to sound snooty, but I just know my system in and out and I try to help people with their systems. Car audio is something I enjoy.
Here is a picture of the sheet from the contest:
Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
Last edited by 67CamaroRS/SS; Dec 16th, 08 at 01:58 PM.