Thanks for all the tips, I am looking into a main fuse right off the positive, I have a 454 with 9.75-1 compression, what size fuse will allow this to start without blowing?
I've used 300A ones on about 5 cars or so and have had two of these cars blow the fuse.
One was due to the person being cheap and not having a good ground setup along with a stock starter working on a high compression motor. Even he could tell how much better the engine cranked over with some jumper cables jury rigged onto the car so I could show him how much better the car would crank over with this basic test. On this one he upgraded his ground paths, added a high torque starter, replaced the fuse and has not blown one since.
The other one I had blow a fuse was on a high torque starter on a high compression 632 cu.in. motor. On this one the engine tuner guy was cranking/bumping it over and over and over again checking the valve lash WAY to many times and from what I could tell they drained the battery down and also overheated the starter motor. On this one they kept a battery charger on it while setting the valves and also learned to do it quicker and on this one has not had a blown fuse since.
On another car I did (Henry J) this one has never blown and on this setup it is a blown big block and a high torque starter. I also have a 300A on my 73 Nova with a low compression small block and a stock starter. This one too has never blown on me.
I've never tried to find out what each particular setup takes but I do not want to put anything larger than a 300A fuse on a 1/0 wire. The fuse is there to protect the wire.
Another thing too thinking about setting up a system with an ANL fuse is to carry a spare just in case and also leave one of the cables going to the fuse holder a little long to reach over to the other post and bypass the fuse. I use the ANL fuse holders that have threaded studs on them and if in the heat of a race and there are no replacement fuses readily available I can bypass the fuse by unbolting the one power wires lug off of the one stud and then put it together with the other power wire and bolt it back together tight. I would only do that if I'm sure there is no short past the fuse itself otherwise the wires insulation would melt off.
If you are worried about voltage drop, get an alternator and regulator system that has an adjustable regulator. I have an old Lestek alternator on my 73 Nova and it came with a solid state adjustable regulator. Using my Dakota Digital volt gauge indash I can dial in and have 14.4 volts right across the battery terminals.