69 Temp guage - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 11th, 09, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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69 Temp guage

So it is not good to put any teflon tape on the sensor? It is best to just thread in? My guage is pegging to hot, bad ground? Also good to run other ground on engine block? I've read allot of post with bad grounds, sounds like same problem with most. Also is the water temp light on bulkhead connector the same wire for the temp guage? or is this only for temp light? Thanks this site is very helpful.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 09, 09:18 AM
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Jim
 
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Re: 69 Temp guage

Best to just screw it in, but it seems unlikely that teflon would insulate it. Try grounding the housing, if your gauge still pegs the line is open somewhere.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 09, 12:54 PM
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Re: 69 Temp guage

I have never had an isuue teflon seal tape and grounding ..u can always check with a multi meter thu..
I prefer locktite thread seal paste
Dont put into Al dry, eventually electolisi will cause corrosion
There are older threads discussing calibration and one about the 3 rd or 4th back on the subject establishing at what temps the needle is at.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 09, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 69 Temp guage

would it make a dif. if I went from a light to a guage? I installed a new sensor for guage. Guage still pegs hot.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 09, 06:19 PM
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Re: 69 Temp guage

I had a similar problem with my 69 Temp Gauge, I changed both the sensor & gauge without any success.

My problem was that when I was staring the engine, the Temp Gauge was reading full scale when the dash light was coming on.

Make sure that the Dash Temp Light & Ignition Switch (the one that tests your dash lights) are out of the circuit.

In my case the light is out and I cut (problem solved) the Ignition Switch wire going to the Dash Temp Light.

To make a long story short make sure that your Temp Sensor is Directly connected to the Temp Gauge.

Heres an extract from the console gauges installation procedure, hope this will help you.

Good Luck,
Daniel.


TEMPERATURE GAUGE.

1967
UNPLUG THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER PLUG FROM THE REAR OF THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER. THE PLUG IS NUMBERED ABOVE EACH OF THE 12 INPUTS. LOCATION 2 CONTAINS TWO DARK GREEN WIRES. DISCONNECT THESE WIRES FROM THE PLUG AND TAPE THEM ASIDE. ORIGINALLY ONE OF THESE DARK GREEN WIRES WAS ROUTED TO THE FUSE BLOCK AND THE OTHER TO THE IGNITION SWITCH. TRACE THE DARK GREEN WIRE TO THE FUSE BLOCK AND DISCONNECT IT FROM LOCATION C-Z. TRACE THE OTHER DARK GREEN WIRE TO THE IGNITION SWITCH AND DISCONNECT IT ALSO. THIS PROCEDURE NOW REMOVES THEORIGINAL DASH TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT FROM SERVICE. CONNECT THE DARK GREEN WIRE FROM THE GAUGE HARNESS CONNECTOR (LOCATION 11) TO FUSE BLOCK LOCATION C-2. THIS NOW ROUTES THE TEMPERATURE LEAD DIRECTLY FROM THE FUSE BLOCK TO THE GAUGE HARNESS CONNECTOR.

1968
UNPLUG THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER PLUG FROM THE REAR OF THE SPEEDOMETER CLUSTER. THE PLUG IS NUMBERED ABOVE EACH OF THE 12 INPUTS. Location 2 CONTAINS TWO DARK GREEN WIRES. DISCONNECT THESE WIRES FROM THE PLUG AND TAPE THEN ASIDE. ORIGINALLY ONE OF THESE DARK GREEN WIRES WAS ROUTED TO THE FUSE BLOCK AND THE OTHER TO THE IGNITION SWITCH. TRACE THE DARK GREEN WIRE TO THE FUSE BLOCK AND DISCONNECT IT FROM LOCATION C-T. TRACE THE OTHER DARK GREEN WIRE TO THE IGNITION SWITCH AND DISCONNECT IT ALSO. THIS PROCEDURE NOW REMOVES THE ORIGINAL DASH TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT FROM SERVICE. CONNECT THE DARK GREEN WIRE FROM THE GAUGE HARNESS CONNECTOR (LOCATION 11) TO FUSE BLOCK LOCATION C-T. THIS NOW ROUTES THE TEMPERATURE LEAD DIRECTLY FROM THE FUSE BLOCK TO THE GAUGE -HARNESS CONNECTOR.

1969
LOCATE THE TWO DARK GREEN WIRES GOING INTO THE TEMP LIGHT (SECOND LIGHT FROM THE RIGHT IN THE LIGHT ASSEMBLY LOCATED TO THE RIGHT OF THE STEERING WHEEL). DISCONNECT THESE WIRES FROM THE LIGHT SOCKET AND TAPE THEM ASIDE. ORIGINALLY ONE OF THESE DARK GREEN WIRES WAS ROUTED TO THE FUSE BLOCK AND THE OTHER TO THE IGNITION SWITCH. TRACE THE DARK GREEN WIRE TO THE FUSE BLOCK AND DISCONNECT IT FROM LOCATION C-T. TRACE THE OTHER DARK GREEN WIRE TO THE IGNITION SWITCH AND DISCONNECT IT ALSO. THIS PROCEDURE NOW REMOVES THE ORIGINAL DASH TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT FROM SERVICE. CONNECT THE DARK GREEN WIRE FROM THE GAUGE HARNESS CONNECTOR (LOCATION 8) TO FUSE BLOCK LOCATION C-T. THIS NOW ROUTES THE TEMPERATURE LEAD DIRECTLY FROM THE FUSE BLOCK TO THE GAUGE HARNESS CONNECTOR.

Daniel,
1969 SS-350 Camaro, Hugger Orange
2005 Black Mustang GT

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 09, 06:59 PM
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Re: 69 Temp guage

Measure voltage drops if you suspect a bad connection. For example, these points would be of intrest to ensure the connections are good. In all cases, your meter should read near zero volts with the circuit powered up.

1) Sender body to engine block.
2) Engine block to gauge ground
3) Sender signal wire to gauge signal wire.
4) Battery (+) post to gauge power.

Teflon tape should be fine, but it could insulate the ground if the sensor wasn't tightened enough. A simple continuity check between the sensor body and block would tell you if your good or not. Teflon paste as become a popular sealant as well.

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 09, 07:47 PM
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Re: 69 Temp guage

Quote:
would it make a dif. if I went from a light to a guage? I installed a new sensor for guage. Guage still pegs hot.
The temp sensor is like a variable resistor srec etc in olders posts
The idiot light is a on /off switch
they are not interchangeable
I run both, the temp gauge in the inlet manifold and the idiot light in the head
The idiot light turns on at 235 deg F.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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