Re: Electrical gremlins -69 Camaro
Without knowing other facts on the car, I'd say its normal because the alternator may only be a 37 amp capacity.
On the case next to the adjustment bolt, is the amperage of the alt. If equipped with a 37 amp, headlamps on, ammeter will show a discharge at engine idle due to alt only being controlled by the regulator, again, normal indication.
The true test would be to measure battery voltage at time of charging with engine running. Normally, with no accessories on and in 10 -15 minutes of run time, 13.2 to 13.8 volts would be normal. Add a load, and what the alt can't supply, battery will assist. As battery warms up, less charge voltage is needed.
Also, drive belt tightness comes into play. Loose belt, lower output.
One change you can make to improve the present situation is to replace the mechanical voltage regulator with an electronic reg, strictly plug & play, a Wells P/N VR715 and transfer the ground wire. Disconnect the battery cable, ground is preferred, and wire brush the connections to the horn relay below the regulator to remove any high resistance. Also, move the ground connection from the alternator bracket to the block itself and clean the battery posts and clamps.
If turn signals outside don't work, but emergency flashers do, then you might unplug/plug the steering column connector and maybe giggle the turn signal handle. The copper contacts inside might have corroded over time. Or the flasher itself is bad located next to the steering column under the dash. Again, only if emergency flashers work and turn signals don't.
If flashers don't work, then might be power problem or a ground problem at each socket in each corner of the car. Wire brush again. The hierarchy of the rear lights is emergency over turn signals over brake lights.
Hope this helps.
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