67 RS Headlight Problem - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 09, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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67 RS Headlight Problem

I have a 67 RS, I put in a new light harness, new relays, new motors, when I cut the lights on the doors and headlights work fine, they just want close when I cut the lights off, when I try to close them with the lights off they want to open again as soon as the doors get off the Limit switches, any ideas, Thanks

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 09, 08:24 PM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

Yes, I'd check the lower bolts which hold the arms on at the bottom of the headlight capsules. These are the small ones (I think either 5 or 7/16) that hold the arm at the bottom. They also control the tension on the "clutches" (plastic discs) as GM calls them. Tighten these nuts. My guess is that when the door closes, it bounces slightly off of the limit switch, causing it to energize again.

Had the same thing happen to my 67 RS awhile ago. In this case, I removed the headlight capsules, and added an additional flat washer to tighten things up. There was just too much slop in the assembly,and this allowed the dreaded bounce that I think might be causing the issue.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

The bolts are tight, when they hit the limit switch they stop , but as soon as you move them off the limit switches they want to open again

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 04:55 AM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

The bolts may in fact be tight,but if the door swings through too loosely, its going to bounce. Open the door manually. If it moves in and out easily, that's the issue. There should be a noticeable drag. You would need to add plastic washers or flat washers to tighten up the works. If it's too loose, it will bounce, and activate the limit switches time after time. Just because the bolts are tight does not mean that the assembly is set up tightly enough. That's why I mentioned adding a flat washer to the RS we had.
Hope this helps...
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

When I open them manually you can hear the motor drag as well

1969 Chevelle Convertible
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1969 Chevelle Survivor 40,000 miles
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 06:16 AM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

I read you loud and clear, but if the arms are bouncing, they are not tight enough. The arm is allowing movement once it hits the limit switch,because once it hits, there is not enough resistance to keep it seated against the switch. It bounces,therefore it keeps activating the motors. The arm assembly should be tight enough so that there is no movement when it reaches the switch.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 08:11 AM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

so i think what you're saying is the doors open fine, there's no bouncing or motor "run-on" happening. but when you turn the headlights off the doors stay put in the open position, and if you try and close them manually, as soon as you move the door off the radiator support limit switch, BAM, it moves right back to the open position again. is this what's happening?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

Yes that is correct. They open fine with no jumping at all

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 05:42 PM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

Sorry, I was not clear on the issue you were having. Now that Aaron chimed in, it makes perfect sense

This may sound silly,but here goes. When you turn the lights off, is the ignition in the "on" position? The relays need to be energized to close,but not to open. If you move the doors off of the switches manually,then yes, the motors would try to run,even with the key in the"off" position.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 05:55 PM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

When you turn off the lights, and the ignition key is(must be)ON, Relay 2 flips to deliver 12V on the brown wire. At the same time Relay 3 flips to deliver GND to the blue wire. These work together to reverse the polarity to the motors and close the light covers.

Sounds like this is the part not working so check to see that you have the correct wiring on relay 2 & 3.

If you search on the topic of 67 rs headlights you'll find other posts that show the schematic and correct wiring for the relays. Good luck.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 09, 10:05 PM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

I'd check each relay individually too, I had one of the three that was bad out of the box (that, or someone fried it and returned it). Use a multimeter to check continuity on all the components (relays and switches). take two short pieces of wire and connect them to the + and - on your battery and each of the coil terminals of the relay to manually energize it, make sure you're getting continuity between the "pivot" terminal and the other two terminals, depending on whether or not the relay is energized. make sense? even if the relay clicks, it might not be making good contact inside the relay.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 09, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

I had a jumper wire between the orange on the circuit breaker and tested each relay and they worked fine, but I did noticed something weird, each time I touched the browm wires on the relays the lights would come on

1969 Chevelle Convertible
1969 Chevelle ZZ502
1969 Chevelle Survivor 40,000 miles
1969 RS Camaro Convertible
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 09, 12:55 PM
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

Question, Where does the diode for the rs headlights plug into? just replaced my underdash harness in my 67 camaro and now my hideway lamps dont operate? Any ideas? thanks
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 09, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 67 RS Headlight Problem

I think the diode is about 4 inches from the light switch on a brown wire

1969 Chevelle Convertible
1969 Chevelle ZZ502
1969 Chevelle Survivor 40,000 miles
1969 RS Camaro Convertible
1971 Cuda Convertible
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