No power to distributor - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 10, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
Trevor
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Melville,SK.
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No power to distributor

1969 Camaro Convertible
When I start my car, the "start" position operates normal. It turns over and fires. Then I return the key to "run" and loose power to my distrubutor. Internal electronics appear to operate normally with the ignition switch. All fuses in the panel check ok. The starter has been replaced, no change. The alternator was tested ok. The ignition switch itself has been replaced, no change. The 30A block on the firewall checks ok.
Its like a hidden inline fuse that I do not know about.
please help
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 10, 11:48 PM
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steve
 
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Re: no power to distributer

Is your wiring and ignition original? The factory wiring has a resistance wire running to the coil this wire cuts the voltage down to 9 volts. There is a wire that runs from the starter solenoid to the coil this wire provides 12 volts to the coil when starting. my guess is that the resistance wire has gone bad or has a bad connection. Check to see if you have power to the coil with the key in the run position, if not trace the wire back to where it comes through the firewall and check there.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 10, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
Trevor
 
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Re: no power to distributer

The wiring is origonal. I have an external regulator while running an alternator now. I have electronic ignition with an HEI coil. I tested the regulator with rhe ignition in the run position and got 12v,12v,0,12v. The 0 was the white wire. Is that normal?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 10, 06:29 PM
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Al
 
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Re: No power to distributer

Most electronic ignitions don't like the resistor wire. Depends on the brand. If you read 0 volts @ pos coil wire in the "run" (on) position, theres a problem with that wire. But if your particular ignition doesn't use the resistor wire, you can tap into the "IGN" spade connector on the fuse block and run a wire from there to coil +. Put a 15 amp fuse inline, rubber grommet in the firewall hole you drill.

It would bug me as towhy there is 0 @ the resistor wire though, and I'd try to figure it out.


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 10, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
Trevor
 
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Re: No power to distributer

Ok. I have investigated deeper. Some of my facts were wrong. The ign fuse inside has no power on either side of it. I traced my distributor wire back to the firewall and found it burnt off the block, at a crimped on poor connection. Its repaired and soldered now, but still no power. What colour is the rest of ign circut in the engine compartment? Which wire supplies power to the ign fuse? That must be the problem wire.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 17th, 10, 09:16 PM
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steve
 
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Re: No power to distributer

The resistance wire is white, if you look closely it has a braided fabric cover rather than plastic.If you look at the harness at the firewall it will toward the passenger side and slightly lower than the bolt that holds the harness to the fusebox. the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the coil is yellow 20 ga. I have a couple of harnesses in my basement they don't have an ignition fuse but there is a spade terminal marked ignition. It appears that ignition spade and the terminal that feeds the resistance wire both feed off of the 12 ga. pink wire that comes off of the ignition switch. I would check it for you but I loaned out my ohm meter. I would check the ignition spade terminal in the fuse box if it has power wire it as previously suggested. If it doesn't have power, check where the 12ga. pink wire comes out of the ignition switch.I worked on a buddy's Corvette that had a fried and corroded terminal going to the ignition switch. Is there any chance the switch could be out of adjustment?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 18th, 10, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
Trevor
 
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Re: No power to distributor

I just tested 2 12ga pink wires on the ign switch and both are hot with ign on. My resistor wire has long since been replaced with a 12ga red. The ign tab is dead along with the small fuse beside it. hmmm, its now sounding like its between the pink on the ign switch and the ign tab. What could fail between those two? I am very grateful for all your help, electrickery has always been a weak spot for me.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 10, 03:25 AM
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Re: No power to distributor

Only item between the switch and fuse panel is pink wire and steering column connector.

Question: Is there IGN path during START?

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 10, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
Trevor
 
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Re: No power to distributor

During start I have ign power. It turns over and fires immediately, as expected. It sounds like I may have to rip the fuse panel off and inspect the pink wire in?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 10, 03:35 AM
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Re: No power to distributor

You might have to adjust the electrical portion of the ign switch to have it mate during IGN position, unless the switch is totally hosed or a bad wire.

There is a period/length of no power between IGN and START, 1/32 inch? The IGN position might be right on the edge and the retrun spring may be weak from age not returning the mechanicals back to IGN position.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 10, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
Trevor
 
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Re: No power to distributor

OK, the deeper I dig the more trouble I find. I pulled the fuse panel right off. The 12ga pink wire that is supposed to be feeding my distributor actually wasn't even being used. My distributor feed was/is coming from a smaller dark green wire. Now my first instinct is to move to the 12ga pink wire, so I did. The problem is now reversed. Not firing in start position but good power in run position. Also, this doesn't address why my ign spade and the small fuse have no power. Ign spade is connected to a grey wire, and the small fuse is connected to pink on one side and green on the other. Everything appears fine too, no corrosion or burns, nothing looks wrong.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 10, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
Trevor
 
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Re: No power to distributor

The car is running again!!!!!
The ign switch was actually one of the first things replaced. I put the distributor wire back on the 12ga pink lead, then re-attached the lead to the distributor!!! <I had forgot to put it back after I tested it> The strange part is its now wired differently than it has been for the last 15 years. note: the ign spade and little fuse are still dead. Walk away!

Thank you everybody who helped me, despite my misleading info at times. I've learnt more about that cars wiring this week than I ever knew.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 10, 03:20 AM
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Re: No power to distributor

Cool! Patience is an important tool.
The short fuse is for dash lights. Dark green from the light switch to fuse then thru fuse to gray wire to lamps.

I f I look at my book, Chilton's, Mar '75, Ign sw has four rows(?) of wires rear to forward (dash to firewall) -
20 AWG dark green to HOT light,
12 AWG red to firewall conn to horn relay (power in)
12 AWG brown to safety switch tied with 24 brown/white resistance wire to firewall conn to VR term #4 (right most GEN light side)
Last row, two wires both sides, left side 12 pink to two places in parallel, one splice to fuse panel to power two fuses, bottom right side(?) and other splice to firewall conn to resistance wire for dist +coil. Right side is purple, 12 AWG, to solenoid, if manual, or purple/white to neutral safety sw if auto.

Hope this helps

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Apr 22nd, 10, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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