Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Saint Louis, Missouri
Re: Battery Cable Length
Are you wanting to run a new power and ground from a front mounted battery to the starter and the engine block ?. Since you said you want to hide as much as you can, if it was me doing it I would get some scrap wire I had laying around and use that to get a measurement and then add a little to the total just in case (and when you buy it, buy red for power and black for ground and don't go cheap and have both power and ground wires being black). You can buy bulk cable by the foot and get the appropriate cable ends that you can crimp and solder onto the wires.
If the power wire for the starter is close to the header or exhaust you might think about another route and you may think about a heat sleeving if it's close to excessive heat and the wires insulation type has a low melting point. Some wires insulation are rated better for higher underhood temps than others.
As far as wire size, 4 gauge may be enough but 2 gauge would work better but larger wire does not bend as easily and required higher dollar terminal ends so you have to weigh that out also.
As far as your 2000 watt stereo, if it requires a 4 gauge power wire, run that to the amp (along with an inline fuse right at the battery positive post) and have a 4 gauge off of the amp to a solid ground point close to where the amp gets mounted AND now add a 4 gauge wire from the firewall to the battery negative post. The reason for this is normally there is only a small chassis ground wire from the battery to the fender and this is only there to support the factory stuff and not large enough when you add big amplifiers and such and have them grounded to the car's body. What goes out of the battery has to get back to the battery.
1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)
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